Spark plug wires
#1
Racer
Thread Starter
Spark plug wires
I have a slight issue on my big block with the spark plug wires being difficult to remove when changing plugs. I have two options I'm comtemplating now:
1. apply one drop of engine oil to the tip of the rubber plug boots
2. apply a very small amount of neverseize to the tip of the rubber plug
boots
What do you all think?
1. apply one drop of engine oil to the tip of the rubber plug boots
2. apply a very small amount of neverseize to the tip of the rubber plug
boots
What do you all think?
#2
Team Owner
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2015 C2 of Year Finalist
Why you changing plugs so often?
#3
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#4
Race Director
#5
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#6
Racer
Thread Starter
#7
Le Mans Master
R66, the Iridium and the Platinum plugs take more power to spark. Platinum and Double Platinum plugs were installed in engines with High Energy ignitions which offered more voltage and they worked well.
Iridium plugs are the very best to do the job but most were designed for much newer engines so the proper size is most likely not available for a Old GM engine. Even the Iridium plugs need more power than a old school copper plug to spark but only about half as much as a double platinum. The Iridium also will out last a Platinum plug by about double. Great plugs for sure but last time I checked nobody was making them for the OLD SCHOOL stock 327-427 engines.
Champion guarantees the Iridium plugs for 7 Years unlimited miles. Probably not much help in our old cars but for a daily driver this is good stuff.
For the old cars using old ignition systems the plain old Copper Plug is still the best and cheapest option. Copper fires with the least amount of ignition voltage.
If your car runs a high energy, MSD or other system switch up to a Iridium or Platinum plug if available. High energy systems cause rapid wear on old copper plugs.
You would still get at least 5,000 miles on copper plugs with an MSD but Platinum could offer 100,000 and Iridium at least 250,000 miles.
Iridium plugs are the very best to do the job but most were designed for much newer engines so the proper size is most likely not available for a Old GM engine. Even the Iridium plugs need more power than a old school copper plug to spark but only about half as much as a double platinum. The Iridium also will out last a Platinum plug by about double. Great plugs for sure but last time I checked nobody was making them for the OLD SCHOOL stock 327-427 engines.
Champion guarantees the Iridium plugs for 7 Years unlimited miles. Probably not much help in our old cars but for a daily driver this is good stuff.
For the old cars using old ignition systems the plain old Copper Plug is still the best and cheapest option. Copper fires with the least amount of ignition voltage.
If your car runs a high energy, MSD or other system switch up to a Iridium or Platinum plug if available. High energy systems cause rapid wear on old copper plugs.
You would still get at least 5,000 miles on copper plugs with an MSD but Platinum could offer 100,000 and Iridium at least 250,000 miles.
#8
Team Owner
I always put a smear of anti-seize on the plug threads and a dab of the goo the FLAPS have for the boot.
I also use an old cutoff straight spark plug boot to hold the plug to start it in the hole. Never cross thread them that way. Nor drop them on the garage floor.
I also use an old cutoff straight spark plug boot to hold the plug to start it in the hole. Never cross thread them that way. Nor drop them on the garage floor.
#9
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I have a slight issue on my big block with the spark plug wires being difficult to remove when changing plugs. I have two options I'm comtemplating now:
1. apply one drop of engine oil to the tip of the rubber plug boots
2. apply a very small amount of neverseize to the tip of the rubber plug
boots
What do you all think?
1. apply one drop of engine oil to the tip of the rubber plug boots
2. apply a very small amount of neverseize to the tip of the rubber plug
boots
What do you all think?
I also use silicone grease on coolant hoses... again, a VERY thin film. It goes a long way in preventing hoses from seizing to nipples, and the heater core nipples are very delicate. It's easy to crack the solder joint to the core if they are seized while attempting to remove them. If I'm going to replace the heater hoses I always slit them at the heater core junction with a utility knife and then peel off the hose.
Duke
Last edited by SWCDuke; 08-27-2018 at 10:28 AM.
#11
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I agree. 4 year old post.