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I also made a slightly more crude version (really did not need it to be nice, just functional )
I was also working with what pieces the metal place had in left overs, picking through what they had, I did not want to buy a 10 foot section of something I needed 4 2” pieces of.
This has worked out GREAT, and makes picking the body up, trouble and worry free.
Also, much of the initial body work is done the fire wall is much smoother, and the whole car is in primer (yeah, all one color!). The square sections will freely slide where ever I want them. When looking through the scraps, they were just a bit too loose, so I just welded in some spacer quickly to take up the slack so they don't twist
they are Sill Panel Wire Cover Floor Plate Clips
skinny plates attach to these clips, and wiring goes between the plate and the body, carpet over the plate.
What an incredible effort. This car is going to be amazing. The quality of the work is obvious, and the ingenious solutions to problems as they occur is brilliant.
I especially like the lift attachment brackets...well done and very creative.
Keep those pictures coming, this build is inspiring.
I sorta made a mini paint booth in my Garage to keep the over spray off all my stuff. Just some rope, small sections of 1/2" pvc, duct tape, hooks, and painters tarp.
Not really for painting the outside, but worked ok when spraying the bottom, and not making too much of a mess!
And now I have the bottom covered in spray on bed liner.
inside the curtain Here you can see the whole garage Hooked one side to my garage door The other side to the wall every couple of feet, a small piece of pvc and some duct tape, so it will slide over the rope like a curtain. bed liner sprayed on the bottom and in the wheel wells
Before doing the internal coating, need to finish up the welding, added mounts for the electric parking brake
cable goes through the first bracket, then over a pulley (to turn 180 degrees) then split to 2 cables, then to a second bracket, then turn to go forward up the middle, and split to each wheel.
Almost ready to send off to get sand blasted again and powder coated, but I wanted to do something to protect the inside as much as I could, so this is what I did:
I went to home depot, got 1/8” wire cable, 3/8 outside diameter nylon spacer, 2 wire ferrules, 2 feet of chain, 3/8” X10 PEX-b tubing (kinda like thinner more flexible PVC)
I had to drill out the end of the pipe with a 3/8 bit, to fit the spacer.
I used a mig welder to cut the cable, this kinda melts it, and leaves it with an end that won’t fray when you chuck it up in the drill.
I threaded 2 small pieces of chain through a loop in the end of the wire, then hammered a ferrule on it to hold it together. Thread it through the spacer, then connect it to a drill.
Stick the cable, chain and tube into the long slots in the frame and any other hole you can get into, and run the drill in reverse (the direction that the cable winds, you don’t want to “unwind” the cable). This should knock loose anything loose inside the frame.
Blew out as much as I could with compressed air in every hole, right side up and upside down, then stuck a magnet in every hole I could to pull out anything that stuck
Quick trick to clean off the magnet, use compressed air.
After using the chain, I also kinda made a wire bush sorta thing, just by unraveling the end of some wires, not sure how much good it did (it kinda wanted to twist back up), but any little bit helps.
I also used the same pipe and same nylon spacer to make a holder for the nozzle that comes with the Eastwood frame inner coating. So I could push it in through the hole (a flimsy hose, would really not allow me to feed it in) and also rotate it as I pulled it out. The spray patter is basically 4 holes from the round nozzle. Twisting back and forth while pulling out, gave better coverage.
kind of hard to see in a pic, but this is what the coverage looks like through a hole in the frame
I first flipped the frame over, and coated everything with the frame upside down first. My thought was, if there was stuff still in there, to let it fall to the top so I could get a coat on the bottom of the frame (possibly more likely to rust, due to water sitting in there) and not have something sitting on the bottom preventing coverage (no idea how true this is). I used 2 cans while upside down, then I flipped it over a couple hours later, and used 2 cans right side up. They said 3 cans would due a full framed car, so I ordered 4. 3 probably would have been fine for one coat over everything, but I probably could have used 2 more, and done 3 upside down, and 3 right side up, but they were back ordered. 4 was ok though and better than nothing.
Motor and transmission in the frame, it should not have to come back out. lowered the body down for a test fit, and the hood clears the blower without modifications!! (about 1/4" to spare)
Two steps forward one step back in several places.... Mainly working on Radiator, fans, intercooler, piping, and cold air intake, but nothing really done just yet, except my skid guard to protect the oil pan. It is really just there to scrape first, so that I can stop before hitting something expensive/vital, but should offer some protection also if it ever comes to that.
Really nice build. I like your skid guard idea for the oil pan and when you get the electric parking brake installed I would like to see the finished product. And really glad that you were able to use a modified version of my body lift for your two post lift. It really makes things easier doesn't it. Good job. Keep it up and keep the updates coming.
FYI, I about crapped my pants when I saw my name mentioned in another thread.
Yeah, my body lift contraption was not quite as nice as yours (I only made mine good enough ), but still effective, and SOOO much better (in my opinion) than straps. One person can pretty easily get it up and down. Thanks for that idea!!
I got a small powder coat kit and an oven for the garage, so now all the little parts get powder coated. The only sorta different thing here is that middle piece. It is a Lokar part that is threaded on one end and has the 2 set screws to hold the cable on the other end. The problem is, the threads were not correct for what I needed to go to the Ebrake. So I welded on 2 nuts to the end of it, then ground it mostly smooth, so it almost looks like it came that way.
This worked out pretty well with the Lokar cable. But keep in mind this is a set of rear brakes from a 98 Z28 camaro, not many have tried to make these work.
that little black part, is just some extra sleeve to take up some slack so the spring will be about right. There is a wire cable ferrule on each end to give the spring something solid to contact, with heat shrink over to make it look a bit more finished.
Above and below the Ebrake system installed. That goldish adapter on the bottom that goes into the block, is the same part I started with before welding the nuts on, which is at the top and now black. My only real problem was, I first used a 1/4-20 bolt/nut on the pulley, because I had it laying around, but that bent So now I drilled it out got a bigger bushing and it is a 3/8 grade 8 bolt, no problems now.
BTW the slight jog up between the Ebrake and the first mount was on purpose to bring the cable up a bit.
Clearance on mine with the skid bar on, the pan a little below the drag link. front view of clearance after adding the skid bar
A picture I took of another C2 at a car show recently, just to compare. Not all that different (keep in mind that cross ram for the power steering hangs down below the drag link, I am comparing drag link to drag link)
10-23-2018, 01:23 AM
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