The correct black for cluster.
#1
Melting Slicks
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Member Since: Feb 2007
Location: OP Kansas
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C2 of Year Finalist (appearance mods) 2019
The correct black for cluster.
I've searched all over for the elusive Krylon 1613 satin black for the dash cluster. I went to Krylon's site and the best I could find is this.
Is this the number everyone is referring to?
Is this the number everyone is referring to?
#2
Instructor
I get mine from Travers Supply, but most of the industrial supply houses carry it.
http://www.travers.com/interiorexter.../p/81-010-126/
http://www.travers.com/interiorexter.../p/81-010-126/
#3
Melting Slicks
SEM Trim Black is a good substitute. It's formulated to stick to bear metal, without a primer. It's very thin which helps keep the original grain detail. I stripped my cluster, and put 3 light coats, and it came out awesome.
#5
Drifting
The one thing to watch with anything Krylon is that often it is recoat sensitive...meaning if you try to repaint it down the road, it lifts..SEM doesn't
#9
The can pictured above is not what you want. The 1613 is acrylic lacquer and is sold through their industrial line in cases of 6 cans. It is called semi-flat black. I just got 2 cases online from Global Industries. Do a Google search for Krylon 1613. Many places sell it, but I have not seen it in stores.
Last edited by Fast58; 01-14-2016 at 10:41 PM.
#10
Melting Slicks
The can pictured above is not what you want. The 1613 is acrylic lacquer and is sold through their industrial line in cases of 6 cans. It is called semi-flat black. I just got 2 cases online from Global Industries. Do a Google search for Krylon 1613. Many places sell it, but I have not seen it in stores.
Decades ago, I had the Delco part number for the paint but it's long since discontinued.
Most spray cans contain enamel and that coating would be so thick that the character/grain in the cluster housing would loose that original crisp appearance.
#11
Team Owner
Yes, that Krylon 'INDUSTRIAL' labeling seems trivial but its a different paint formulation with a subtle 'laydown' that makes it closer to a factory finish. You have to be very cautious and only use several light coats on a C2 cluster so you don't fill in the grain on the piece's "camera case" finish. Its not hard to overdue it and ruin the whole look of the cluster. I shake the snot out of the can after letting it sit in a bucket of warm water for 10 minutes or so then do very light passes and try to keep those at two - three only if necessary.
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agump (01-17-2016)
#13
Instructor
Is there a CF discount code or do you need to phone your order in and verbally request? I have used MSC over the years for machine tool supplies, and they have always had great prices and service.
#14
Racer
I've seen a million posts on this subject, and thought I would add another option. I know a lot of people don't have a full spray system at there house and prefer to use rattle cans , but if you do have a compressor and spray equipment like I do, I think this is a far superior way to go. I own an illuminated sign shop, and all across North America there is pretty well one preferred paint system for our type of business, it is a specialized line of two stage polyurethane, called Mathews , which is a division of PPG. The whole system is designed to come out satin, and the black is pretty well a perfect match to SEM trim black . I use it on everything that requires that finish, it is beautiful paint to work with and is literally dries to the point you can handle it within about fifteen minutes, with a full cure in a couple of hours. The stuff is bulletproof, close to the strength of powder coating.
If you had a bigger sign company in your area, they probably would be glad to sell you some, it is a four to one to one system, four parts paint, one part activator ( and this can be any polyurethane activator) and one part reducer. Too easy, and it comes out the same every single time.
So there you go.
If you had a bigger sign company in your area, they probably would be glad to sell you some, it is a four to one to one system, four parts paint, one part activator ( and this can be any polyurethane activator) and one part reducer. Too easy, and it comes out the same every single time.
So there you go.
#15
Racer
If you use krlon, it HAS to be the industrial "1613" the big box stores "1613" is not the same, too shiny. I would also use a SEM self etching primer because you are painting on chrome.
#16
Melting Slicks
I've always called and requested the CF discount. It cuts the price almost in half. If you call in the am, you'll have your order the next pm. It's been like that every time I've ordered from them, and I live in a rural route delivery area.
Again, I'm not saying it's the perfect paint for a gauge cluster, but it is great for many other areas of these cars. I have used it on interior parts on my '71 coupe (Gauge cluster, e-brake cover) with excellent results.
Carter
#17
Racer
cluster paint
[QUOTE=65 vette dude;1591321716]SEM Trim Black is a good substitute. It's formulated to stick to bear metal, without a primer. It's very thin which helps keep the original grain detail. I stripped my cluster, and put 3 light coats, and it came out awesome.[/QUOTwE]
hey vette dude
what did u use to strip off the old paint? did u remove your cluster
from the car? how did u mask off all the glass on the gauges?
i would like to do my cluster but i dont want to remove the cluster.
any suggestions 0r pointers? can u show me a picture of y0ur
completed job. thanks
hey vette dude
what did u use to strip off the old paint? did u remove your cluster
from the car? how did u mask off all the glass on the gauges?
i would like to do my cluster but i dont want to remove the cluster.
any suggestions 0r pointers? can u show me a picture of y0ur
completed job. thanks
#18
Race Director
[QUOTE=BK N 66;1591345047]
Never thought to leave it in the car to paint a cluster. I guess it's possible but why not pull it out and clean the back side of the lens and the gauge faces?
Hitch
SEM Trim Black is a good substitute. It's formulated to stick to bear metal, without a primer. It's very thin which helps keep the original grain detail. I stripped my cluster, and put 3 light coats, and it came out awesome.[/QUOTwE]
hey vette dude
what did u use to strip off the old paint? did u remove your cluster
from the car? how did u mask off all the glass on the gauges?
i would like to do my cluster but i dont want to remove the cluster.
any suggestions 0r pointers? can u show me a picture of y0ur
completed job. thanks
hey vette dude
what did u use to strip off the old paint? did u remove your cluster
from the car? how did u mask off all the glass on the gauges?
i would like to do my cluster but i dont want to remove the cluster.
any suggestions 0r pointers? can u show me a picture of y0ur
completed job. thanks
Hitch
#19
Instructor
IMSA,
I've always called and requested the CF discount. It cuts the price almost in half. If you call in the am, you'll have your order the next pm. It's been like that every time I've ordered from them, and I live in a rural route delivery area.
Again, I'm not saying it's the perfect paint for a gauge cluster, but it is great for many other areas of these cars. I have used it on interior parts on my '71 coupe (Gauge cluster, e-brake cover) with excellent results.
Carter
I've always called and requested the CF discount. It cuts the price almost in half. If you call in the am, you'll have your order the next pm. It's been like that every time I've ordered from them, and I live in a rural route delivery area.
Again, I'm not saying it's the perfect paint for a gauge cluster, but it is great for many other areas of these cars. I have used it on interior parts on my '71 coupe (Gauge cluster, e-brake cover) with excellent results.
Carter
#20
Team Owner
I've painted a lot of parts with them still installed in the car, but I think doing that with a gauge cluster would be a nightmare. The work to tape off the gauge faces/trim rings/***** and then protecting the rest of the interior from overspray would be more trouble than pulling the cluster and doing it right. You'd still prob have to pull the steering wheel off as well.