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When my C2 with steel wheels, the lug nut had the threads come through just about flush. Now that I have changed over to thicker aluminum aftermarket wheels (which use a tapered thread lug nut), I question whether the original wheel studs are long enough?
The aluminum wheels had a nut with a shank that fits into the wheel? if so you will be aok...You need 7/16''-1/2'' of the stud threads IN the lug nut....anymore means nothing...
Last edited by karkrafter; 02-26-2016 at 04:22 PM.
The type of lug nut you're describing "tapered thread" is not clear. Do you mean a tapered base lug nut, like used on steel wheels? If so, as long as a thread or two of the stud protrudes past the end of the nut you're OK. If the studs don't protrude the full length of the nut, the studs are too short.
If the studs don't protrude the full length of the nut, the studs are too short.
I'm sure an engineer type will chime in but that statement is not entirely true...
if the stud is 7/16'' in dia. any MORE than 7/16'' threaded in to a lug nut is overkill...if the lug nut has 3/4'' of threads the stud does NOT have to poke thru...7/16'' is mechanically as strong as it can get.
if the stud is 7/16'' in dia. any MORE than 7/16'' threaded in to a lug nut is overkill...if the lug nut has 3/4'' of threads the stud does NOT have to poke thru...7/16'' is mechanically as strong as it can get.
The OP needs to clarify the type of lug nut he's using. All aluminum wheels do not use a long shank lug nut, some use a regular OEM tapered nut. My comment about needing full nut penetration was regarding a standard lug nut where you can see the thread.
My aftermarket aluminum wheels use a tapered thread lug nut, (like a regular steel wheel would). The threads, without the nut, only protrude about 3/10 of an inch (6 turns of the lug nut on 7/16"X 20 threads - because the aluminum wheels are thicker than the steel wheels. I think I need longer wheel studs.
My aftermarket aluminum wheels use a tapered thread lug nut, (like a regular steel wheel would). The threads, without the nut, only protrude about 3/10 of an inch (6 turns of the luh nut on 7/16"X 20 threads - because the aluminum wheels are thicker than the steel wheels. I think I need longer wheel studs.
Using standard lug nuts, if you're not getting full thread penetration to the end of the nut, you're studs are too short.
Studs are too short ! I would not be comfortable with that. You need at LEAST 7/16 engagement
per AISC (american institute for steel construction), the strength of a bolted connection is attained when the threads extend at least through the nut approx. one thread . anything else is wasted. at a minimum, there should be at least a bolt's diameter thread engagement.
Bill
The aluminum wheels had a nut with a shank that fits into the wheel? if so you will be aok...You need 7/16''-1/2'' of the stud threads IN the lug nut....anymore means nothing...
Like these, right? They're the ones labeled "Hex Nut-E.T. Extended Thread" and they're the style I have on my 63 with Billet Specialties aluminum wheels.
My rims - Torque Thrust M's - use the Hex Nut - Conical Seat
Since the lug nuts are solid on the end, I cannot see if the thread go through like you would on a factory lug nut. But I am only getting 6 turns, which is too short.
1 3/4" length studs seem to be readily available. I'm going to see if one of these are long enough before I buy a full set of replacements.
Like these, right? They're the ones labeled "Hex Nut-E.T. Extended Thread" and they're the style I have on my 63 with Billet Specialties aluminum wheels.
Awesome chart!
Last edited by karkrafter; 03-10-2016 at 03:27 PM.
My rims - Torque Thrust M's - use the Hex Nut - Conical Seat
Since the lug nuts are solid on the end, I cannot see if the thread go through like you would on a factory lug nut. But I am only getting 6 turns, which is too short.
1 3/4" length studs seem to be readily available. I'm going to see if one of these are long enough before I buy a full set of replacements.
The Extended Thread nuts are the same as the Conical Seats with an additional 1/4" or so of thread. It's a standard lug nut, so you should be able to get one easily enough to try it.
Thanks Mike! These did the trick. A lot easier than changing the wheel studs! I agree the rim manufacturer should have suggested these, but they did not.
My rims - Torque Thrust M's - use the Hex Nut - Conical Seat
Since the lug nuts are solid on the end, I cannot see if the thread go through like you would on a factory lug nut. But I am only getting 6 turns, which is too short.
1 3/4" length studs seem to be readily available. I'm going to see if one of these are long enough before I buy a full set of replacements.
The 7/16" studs have 20 threads per inch. You should have at least 10 full turns of the nut to get the minimum engagement of one bolt diameter plus 1 more full turn as the 1st thread is tapered to assist starting the nut as wmf62 stated.
Be careful not to have the studs too long and bottom out in the enclosed lug nut. With the wheel bolted in place with 4 nuts and snug again the hub, You need to measure the stud projection on the last stud. Measure the depth of the hole in the enclosed lug nut for your wheels. The stud projection should be approximately 1/8" less than the lug nut depth, but have a minimum of 1/2" engagement to get 10 threads.
Because your new lug nuts are of the tapered type like the OEM nuts for steel wheels, you can just put an OEM nut on to verify the minimum engagement (full nut plus 1 thread projecting).
If you had a shank on the new lug nuts, you must put them in the wheel to verify you are not projecting past the back of the wheel. The shank should be about 1/8" less in length than the depth of the wheel with any required washers in place. Not rocket science
Last edited by R66; 04-29-2016 at 06:34 AM.
Reason: spelling error
Like these, right? They're the ones labeled "Hex Nut-E.T. Extended Thread" and they're the style I have on my 63 with Billet Specialties aluminum wheels.
Just a personal preference, but when running the Mag type or ET extended thread type nuts, I like to have more thread engagement to get into the thicker portion of the nut. I don't believe the extended shank which is only about 1/16" thick has the same strength as a regular nut with about 1/8" thickness. Call me crazy, but loosing a wheel is not good. I ran the open end type Mag nuts on my 3500# car so I could see the ugly studs. When you launch on the two rear wheels, you need both of them until the front end comes down.
02-26-2016, 09:54 AM
C2 aluminum aftermarket wheels stud length
With the wheel bolted in place with 4 nuts and snug again the hub, You need to measure the stud projection on the last stud. Measure the depth of the hole in the enclosed lug nut for your wheels. The stud projection should be approximately 1/8" less than the lug nut depth, but have a minimum of 1/2" engagement to get 10 threads.
but loosing a wheel is not good. I ran the open end type Mag nuts on my 3500# car so I could see the ugly studs. When you launch on the two rear wheels, you need both of them until the front end comes down. 