easyriderknucklehead

I CLEANED UP THE FUSE BOX TDAY BOTH SIDES AND USED DIELECTRIC GREASE ON CONTACTS AND PLUGS. hopefull my fuse for tail lights won t get hot anymore.
I also wanted to ask or axe you guys like the say in the states lol about the yellow picture bubba has goingb to the regulator from a black /white striped from near the silver thing there with the horn green and black . the black and white is on a harness near there.?
Also I hace a red thicker guage wire and I think a black taped up dangling by the harness near the regulator ( is that for AC CARS)
mY REGULATOR WIRING IS IT CORRECT WITH THE YELLOW-(BLACK AND WHITE) ???

jprop

The "silver thing" is the horn relay.

In the words of John Z:

"The horn relay has two completely separate functions. The internal relay coil and contacts supply 12V to the horns (green wire) when you push the horn button (black wire grounds the relay coil and pulls the contacts together). It also is the main power junction and distribution point, supplies charging current from the alternator to the battery, supplies power to the fuse block and ignition switch, and is a sensing point for the battery gauge; those functions go through the two screw terminals on the power buss. Those two screw connections MUST be clean and shiny - there's a lot of current passing through them.

The factory wiring diagram shows a ground connection from the screw-terminal buss - that's wrong - the ground point is at the tab where the relay is attached to the radiator support. "

Pretty important to be wired correctly.

babbah

BUBBA IS ALIVE AND WELL!
That wiring is scary looking at best! The regulator 4 wire connector looks like there are a few wires missing as well.
Get a new engine and interior harness and be done with it! You'll be able to sleep better at night!

easyriderknucklehead

it seems to be charging fine when running and after all the work I just did under dash ( it looks great down there and the fuse box now too and connections. I spent 2 days on the mess under the dash and hope to never do that again . Yes there are a couple funky looking wires (yellow) but I can do the uder hood stuff piece of cake after the dash harness . so if you guys can send me a picture in color of your harness around the regulater I should be able to match the colours and I think after getting anew light switch tomorrow I can move on to a good cut wax and armour all and burning off these 235 15 inch tires on ugly aluminum 5 slot rims that are too big in the front for sharp turning in reverse and rub anyway. THE CAR IS HOOKED UP TO A BATTERY AND WILL FIRE UP TOMORROW AND HAD NO FIRE LAST NIGHT . LOL

easyriderknucklehead

I WILL LOOK BY THE RAD SUPPORT FOR THE GROUND POINT as I look at the picture you can see the ground is just going to the bolt there with the red connector. (wrong) as you said. thanks will dig into that.

babbah

babbah

The Voltage Regulator Connector:

easyriderknucklehead

thanks babbah if my paint job and body work turn out this summer nice I will surely clean up the wiring in the engine compartment ( but really its not bad aside from the regulator area)
Not working right now either and that doesn t help (good thing there s moose meat and fishing (walleye and jack in river and lakes near me) lol
right now its just get her going and stopping! big day today and its sunny out and snow has melted .

babbah

Easy - Keep use posted!

easyriderknucklehead

o k now I have really puzzled my self after taking the dash cluster out and the steering column and re installing everything well I got no headlights and tail lights now. my headlights were working before I took the fuse box out to clean. so was the horn before I took the steering column out. that ground wire on rag joint I left off I thought so I ran a ground and nothing , did I rip something off in steering column I only dropped it to seat level not all the way out . my biggest problem that started all this was the tail lights and we had them working without touching the brown wire on switch. now I changed the fuses to 5 amp and cleaned the fuse box and may need to take it out again. I still get power to the 2nd from bottom and if I run wire from third fuse to brown on switch I get tail lights. that one day I ran power from a battery to the 3 rd fuse and then took it off and they stayed on . then again later that day they didn t work again. I checked all the wires from fuse box for cuts etc when I burned the black one so they where all new looking clean and taped back up together and just getting close to taking it in soon and gonna see how long it takes the electrical guy to figure it out but maybe the fuse box wires that were dirty I should have taken completely out well I did the 3 rd fuse one grey I believe and the metal fuse holder and cleaned it nice. anyway back imto that again tomorrow. thabks for your help where should I start .??? I tried 3 different switches also at the wreckers after I thought that was it!! its a coomon switch for g m !!! oh one thing the brown wire on dash cluster was ground and we ran it to a screw above the tach . maybe can I run a ground from a battery or my battery from car to metal on gauges in back to eliminate that and maybe the interior lights will work and who knows the tail lights too...

65GGvert

Two things, the brown wire will not be ground unless someone has replaced it. The brown wire feeds from the fuse box to the switch and from the switch to the tail lights. The two brown wires carry 12v, the one to the tail lights only when the switch is in the park or headlight position. Ground wires are black. I wish I could get you to stop randomly connecting wires. I posted a wiring diagram. Look at the wire colors listed on the diagram. I'm afraid one day to read that your car has burned to the ground.
Second, the headlights do not feed through the steering column in any way. The voltage from the switch goes to the floor headlight dimmer switch and then through the left hand bulkhead connector and then to the front to the headlights. There is a circuit breaker in the headlight switch for overload that resets itself when it cools or overload is no more.

easyriderknucklehead

sorry I think when I type there are a lot of run on sentences and it gets confusing. what I mean for the steering column was the horn because it was working till I took steering column out and the fuse box. I am totally sure my tail light problem is under the dash somewhere either to fuse box or from . only because I get tail lights when I feed power to brown wire on switch from 3 rd fuse. right side of fuse . I will paint a better picture tomorrow I hope or resolve this . I know it sounds m
like a mess but its a 1965 not much there even for a dope like me who just started doing troubleshooting with electrical . I can hook up stereo and amp with subs but that's easy. its the voltage meter that's all new measuring current etc that drives me nuts.

easyriderknucklehead

one more question can you please look at picture post 61 of my fuse box . I cleaned the backs of the contacts the wires go to and the area the fuses go into on the front with alcohol and wire brush then electrical contact cleaner and then after dry put dieelectric grease on all . all the fuses have current and test light glows when I test them except that 3 rd which we discussed only if switch is pulled for lights. is it possible if I check again tomorrow that the contact between the 2nd and 3 rd is broken in the fuse box beneath the wires . I did not pull the permanent attached wires off to clean only the easy ones. I thought maybe they would break or were soldered stuck.

65GGvert

The third fuse from the bottom is for the dash lights, and it should only have voltage when the dash lights are on. It won't be 12v unless the dimmer on the headlight switch is rotated to full bright, just before it turns on the courtesy lights. The voltage will drop as the dimmer is rotated toward the dim positions.

easyriderknucklehead

where does this plug go (it has power)




is this regulator wire on right supposed to be going to black and white like this . car is charging with different alternator on it




this thick red and 2 skinny black and other are taped up are they for A.C,




WHAT IS THIS PLUG FOR ABOVE BATTERY

easyriderknucklehead

HERE IS THE LIGHT SWITCH PLUG (is it missing something) IF I RUN POWER FROM SECOND FUSE TO THE BROWN ON RIGHT WITH A wire I get tail lights. I always like I said before have all other lights again . signals,brakes, (headlights again) are o k. in the plug there is purple,brown,brown,black /black with blue stripe together ,green,red,black and white. I have cleaned the fuse box twice now and double checked connections there and no broken wires to switch that I have located and tried 3 switches ????? I am getting frustrated with this wiring

babbah

I know that you don't want to hear this, but I highly recommend that you replace your electrical harnesses.

65hihp

refer back up to post 63
"Get a new engine and interior harness and be done with it!
You'll be able to sleep better at night!"
...and have less frustration during the day.
Your wiring is hopelessly kluged. Do everyone a favor and fix it.

easyriderknucklehead

I will still have those questions with a new harness maybe even more. I am driving it and very close to done with electrical once I figure out the wires left over in pics . not to much left and getting a harness etc is giving up and creating far more work . I could see if I had cracked old wire everywhere but connectors and tape should solve this . I guess get a new car would be a suggestion too but no way .

65GGvert

The other pictures are beyond what I can help with, but the first plug has the colors (b, b/w, and red) that go to the power antenna switch connector on the panel beside the radio.