427 Pump to Carburetor Line
03-29-2016, 07:51 PM
#1
Drifting
Thread Starter
427 Pump to Carburetor Line
I have this motor finished other than a couple of loose ends. It was originally a '66 390 hp, but it has all the internals of a 425 hp with the exception of the intake manifold and heads. I have a new '67 fuel pump and a 780 dual feed Quick Fuel carburetor.
I'm assuming I should buy the '66 425 hp 3 piece line with Y-block. One concern is the line may not line up close enough due to any differences in the intake height compared to the aluminum intake the 425 hp motor came with.
I'm assuming I should buy the '66 425 hp 3 piece line with Y-block. One concern is the line may not line up close enough due to any differences in the intake height compared to the aluminum intake the 425 hp motor came with.
03-29-2016, 08:11 PM
#2
Melting Slicks
I have this motor finished other than a couple of loose ends. It was originally a '66 390 hp, but it has all the internals of a 425 hp with the exception of the intake manifold and heads. I have a new '67 fuel pump and a 780 dual feed Quick Fuel carburetor.
I'm assuming I should buy the '66 425 hp 3 piece line with Y-block. One concern is the line may not line up close enough due to any differences in the intake height compared to the aluminum intake the 425 hp motor came with.
I'm assuming I should buy the '66 425 hp 3 piece line with Y-block. One concern is the line may not line up close enough due to any differences in the intake height compared to the aluminum intake the 425 hp motor came with.
The 66 pump has tapered pipe thread outlet and uses a 90* fitting to couple with the straight fuel line.
The 67 pump has machine thread and the fuel line bends 90* to enter the pump outlet without a 90* fitting.
There is a solution, though. Not 100% correct but close.
Use a pump to carb fuel line set from a 67 L88. The upper section of the line is identical to a 66 425 HP but the fuel pump end will have the 90* bend.
Unless are looking for absolute correct, this setup will work and look nearly factory.
Last edited by Critter1; 03-29-2016 at 08:20 PM.
03-29-2016, 08:36 PM
#4
Race Director
That's what I did on my NOM 66 - used an L-88 fuel line which I believe comes into the fuel pump 90 degrees off from the L72 fuel pump. I do have a second generation L88 intake on my engine but I don't thing the height will be any problem at all.
03-29-2016, 08:48 PM
#5
Drifting
Thread Starter
That's good, I'm glad I didn't make the mistake of receiving a box that needs to go back. I will order the '67 L88 line kit tomorrow. The reason I have the '67 pump is because it seems to be much more readily available than the '66 pump and was still hard to get from any auto parts store. I had a guy at a Napa store get me the pump for about $30
04-03-2016, 12:34 AM
#6
Drifting
Thread Starter
I received the L-88 fuel line on Friday. Everything worked out great after some tweaking. When I hooked the line up it was obvious the aluminum intake on the L-88 is an inch or 2 higher than a cast iron intake because the feed line from the pump didn't want to line up with the brass block that the 2 carburetor lines connect to. I ended up having to heat the long feed line from the pump red hot at the top where it clears the top of the engine and slightly twist the line so the end that connects to the brass block could line up to it. Not a problem at all and everything is straight and clean...thanks for the heads up!
04-03-2016, 07:53 AM
#7
Race Director
The L-88 never ran anything but a high rise intake so the line should have been configured for it. I don't think there is any significant difference between an L72 or an L88 intake either - practically the same except for the milled plenum divider.
Almost all of these reproduction fuel lines, gas tank lines and brake lines takes some fiddling with and re-configuring to match the originals. I just finished re-plumbing all brake and fuel lines on my 67 GTX. I would take off the old one and lay the new one on side of it and they seldom were very close. A few of them I had to significantly re-bend and profile. I would almost have been better off it they had just sent me straight lines of the proper length with flares and fittings.
You may be past this stage already but I have generally had good luck on getting good, leak-free joints by running the nuts down moderately snug - backing them off - running up a little tighter - backing off - and then running it up tight. That sort of allows the flare to conform to the seat without having to really lean on the nut and risk stripping or rounding the head off.
Almost all of these reproduction fuel lines, gas tank lines and brake lines takes some fiddling with and re-configuring to match the originals. I just finished re-plumbing all brake and fuel lines on my 67 GTX. I would take off the old one and lay the new one on side of it and they seldom were very close. A few of them I had to significantly re-bend and profile. I would almost have been better off it they had just sent me straight lines of the proper length with flares and fittings.
You may be past this stage already but I have generally had good luck on getting good, leak-free joints by running the nuts down moderately snug - backing them off - running up a little tighter - backing off - and then running it up tight. That sort of allows the flare to conform to the seat without having to really lean on the nut and risk stripping or rounding the head off.
Last edited by DansYellow66; 04-03-2016 at 07:54 AM.
04-03-2016, 11:57 AM
#8
Drifting
Thread Starter
Yeah, I am familiar with proper tightening of lines...I've been an electric forklift tech for 34 years in our family owned service business. Brake lines are next along with the pain in the *** frame rail fuel line. Not looking forward to that one.
04-04-2016, 07:57 AM
#9
Race Director
Yeah, you will probably have to lift the body to get the gas line in unless you install a union or something. Not even much room to do that in the kickup area. Good luck.
