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Frame Rail Fuel Line

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Old 03-31-2016, 06:52 PM
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ILBMF
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Default Frame Rail Fuel Line

I'm looking at the fuel line from rear to front along and in the frame and I'm thinking the body probably has to come off to replace it. I have no plans to lift the body as the frame is in pretty good shape.

Am I right in thinking it has to come off and is there another alternative like maybe aramid backed hose? I'm all ears
Old 03-31-2016, 07:08 PM
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Nowhere Man
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its much easier to replace with the body off. I have read on here of people removing the tail lights and snaking it thought there
Old 03-31-2016, 07:19 PM
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ILBMF
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So, it's definitely the rear section that is the pain in the ***? By the way, it's a '66
Old 03-31-2016, 09:12 PM
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JohnZ
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Originally Posted by ILBMF
So, it's definitely the rear section that is the pain in the ***? By the way, it's a '66
'63-'67 all used the same design, with the rear half of the fuel line buried inside the rear frame side rail; they didn't fix it until 1968, when they re-routed the rear half outside of the frame rail.
Old 03-31-2016, 09:15 PM
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Ok John, what would you suggest?
Old 03-31-2016, 09:24 PM
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Originally Posted by ILBMF
Ok John, what would you suggest?
1. Raise the body about a foot and replace the line as one piece (do the brake line on the other side at the same time).

----OR----

2. Cut the new line in half and install the halves individually (add a union where the line exits the grommeted hole in the front of the kickup and heads downhill).

Old 03-31-2016, 09:25 PM
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Mike Geary
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Originally Posted by Nowhere Man
its much easier to replace with the body off. I have read on here of people removing the tail lights and snaking it thought there
Right I remember seeing that too.

IIRC, the line had to be cut along the section on the kickup face, under the spiral stone guard wrap.

Just need the right compression union fitting...
Old 03-31-2016, 09:32 PM
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Originally Posted by ILBMF
So, it's definitely the rear section that is the pain in the ***? By the way, it's a '66
There are some other benefits to taking the body off

1 correct one piece fuel line
2 while body is off replace the brake lines too
3 the rear body mounts tend to rust out. The stepped shape rubber washer traps water and the hole opens up and the rubber stepped washer starts to fall thru the body mount.
4 replace the transmission heat shield that attaches to the tranny tunnel
5 all new body mount hardware

I had a shop remove the body on my 66 and although expensive I felt good about new fuel and brake lines. My old fuel line had been repaired twice before
Old 03-31-2016, 09:40 PM
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Originally Posted by Mike Geary
Right I remember seeing that too.

IIRC, the line had to be cut along the section on the kickup face, under the spiral stone guard wrap.

Just need the right compression union fitting...
Mike Coletta actually swaged one end at the splice area slightly larger in diameter and did a silver soldered "slip fit" type connection. Then pulled the armor coil over the top for a "no detectable" joint. Plus the mechanical integrity is nearly as good as original.

The archives have all the details.........should be under his name.

If I were to use a compression fitting, I would buy a Parker of Swagelok "industrial quality" fitting. We used these all the time in the chemical plants for some fairly hazardous materials. They go on right and NEVER leak.................even at 1000's of psig pressure. And our C2 gas line operates at about 1 psig MAX................probably under a slight vacuum most of the time.

Larry

Last edited by Powershift; 03-31-2016 at 09:47 PM.
Old 03-31-2016, 09:42 PM
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Ok guys, I pretty much figured it would be something like what you have suggested. I'll buy the new line and get her on the lift and make a decision based on what makes most sense considering time and what's practical. I may do the silver solder slip fit method. Thank you, I'll make it happen

Last edited by ILBMF; 03-31-2016 at 09:44 PM.
Old 03-31-2016, 10:13 PM
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Originally Posted by ILBMF
Ok guys, I pretty much figured it would be something like what you have suggested. I'll buy the new line and get her on the lift and make a decision based on what makes most sense considering time and what's practical. I may do the silver solder slip fit method. Thank you, I'll make it happen

Here is the thread I referenced. This and many others like it in the archives if you search under "gas line replacement" or something similar in the C1-C2 Forum Section..

https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...placement.html

Mike Coletta is still around and a C2 Forum member, if you need to contact him for additional advice or clarifications.

FWIW, the 1966 brake lines can be replaced with the body still on the frame. I did it along with many others..............and the finished job looked and performed very well.

Larry

Last edited by Powershift; 03-31-2016 at 10:21 PM.
Old 03-31-2016, 10:26 PM
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I appreciate it. The existing fuel line is just pitted a bit too much for comfort and that's just in the areas I can put my eyes on. I'll get it done and thanks for the help guys.
Old 04-01-2016, 08:55 AM
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Originally Posted by 66RBS
There are some other benefits to taking the body off

1 correct one piece fuel line
2 while body is off replace the brake lines too
3 the rear body mounts tend to rust out. The stepped shape rubber washer traps water and the hole opens up and the rubber stepped washer starts to fall thru the body mount.
4 replace the transmission heat shield that attaches to the tranny tunnel
5 all new body mount hardware

I had a shop remove the body on my 66 and although expensive I felt good about new fuel and brake lines. My old fuel line had been repaired twice before
Good idea.

Then, while you are there:

1. replace u-joints
2. rebuild brakes
3. replace gas tank (much easier with body off)
4. that rear spring looks tired - probably swap with composite
5. replace carpet
6. LED tail lights
7. New license plate bezel
8. Side exhaust
9. New Steering wheel

oh. sorry. The disease kicked in. Carry on.
Old 04-01-2016, 12:23 PM
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Originally Posted by SnakePlisken
Good idea.

Then, while you are there:

1. replace u-joints
2. rebuild brakes
3. replace gas tank (much easier with body off)
4. that rear spring looks tired - probably swap with composite
5. replace carpet
6. LED tail lights
7. New license plate bezel
8. Side exhaust
9. New Steering wheel

oh. sorry. The disease kicked in. Carry on.
Many of us have followed this path..................

Larry
Old 04-01-2016, 12:26 PM
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Frankie the Fink
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Replacing a fuel line can turn into a body off restoration so fast it'll make your head swim!
Old 11-21-2023, 10:29 AM
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It's been 7 1/2 years, I'm guessing the issue has been resolved by now.
Old 11-21-2023, 10:45 AM
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well i am getting old..the link popped up in my most recent too.. probably scrolled past the end to a similar post.... I know better... my fault...
Old 11-21-2023, 11:53 AM
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Originally Posted by joewill
well i am getting old..the link popped up in my most recent too.. probably scrolled past the end to a similar post.... I know better... my fault...
The "related topic" thing. You're far from the first!
Old 11-21-2023, 08:22 PM
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It looks to me like that there is some remnants of factory black paint on the portion of the frame shown in your picture. To me that is a good sign that you don't have any significant rust issues with your frame.

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