rene-paul

I am seeking recomendations for a rear main seal for my 327/300 rebuild. Felpro has silicone and the fluroelastomer. Comments please.
Brgds,
Rene

MikeM

The OEM style works fine for years. Don't know about this new fangled stuff.

Whatever FelPro recommends would be fine with me.

Bluestripe67

That's what I put in mine 2 yrs ago. Offset it about 1/4 inch, dab silicone on the main edges, torque it and go. Dennis

babbah

I had nothing but leaks with the silicone one.
Then I installed the Fluroelastomer seal and no more leaks. Not one drop. Well worth the money!

VeroWing

FelPro 2912

babbah

Thats the one!
I installed it offset exactly as the picture below:

MikeM

What I was trying to say was the original main seal that Flint Engine installed in 1965 is still in place and not leaking a drop.

rene-paul

I will go with the FelPro 2912. Thank You gentlemen!
Brgds,
Rene

vmaxpwc

Can the seal be installed in the car by just removing the rear main cap? If so can it be rotated like pictured?

427Hotrod

Yes.

JIM

babbah

Absolutely.

Bluffman

I also have a rear seal leak on my 327/350hp, some detail pics of your repair would be great, I have never changed a seal while still in the car, how much of a pain is it whiteout a lift. Ian

vmaxpwc

So far it was easy enough to jack up the car, disconnect the idler arm and remove the pan. Just remove the oil pump and you can get to the rear main. Now i am guessing you can rotate the top half of the seal out of the main and rotate a new one in?

babbah

Yes the upper portion of the seal will come out.
Also I didn't have to touch the idler arm to drop the pan. Much easier on a lift.

Westlotorn

The 2912 can handle more RPM and heat. These old Vetts spin a lot of RPM so this seal works better in them.
The upper seal won't jump out you will have to encourage it. A brass drift may be necessary to tap lightly and get it started then you can crab it with needle nose pliers and pull it out. The new one will need to be lubed well prior to install to help it slip in.
If you loosen the last three main caps the crank will sag a little and give you a touch more room for the seal install.
Make sure both half's of the new seal get fresh oil prior to install so they don't run dry on initial start up.
A small dab of silicone on the end pieces helps seal them together on install. Small dab is important. Extra will just make a mess.
Be sure to re torque those main caps prior to pan install.

MOXIE62

I thought you put in a special 2 lip seal that a mechanic friend gave you.

Bluffman

So on my back, with the car on jack stands will work. Ian

MOXIE62

I guess you have driven your car enough to know it needs one. When I purchased my car, it had been driven very little in 8 years, only 300 miles. When I started driving the rear seal leaked. Now as I put miles on the car it stopped leaking. Just needed some driving time for seal to seat.

Frankie the Fink

You are right.... Sad times indeed, you are remembering specific things about my cars that I can't.

Guess I'll just sit in the rocking chair on the porch and reminisce about the good old days - dammit