sumter

I am installing a new fuel pump in a 1966 427 Corvette. The fuel pump was a booger to get out and installing the new one has taken me down some new paths.
I put some deep marks on the original fuel push rod while trying to install the new pump and had to replace it. I didn't bend it. After taking out the old rod, I am now not able to get the new push rod to fit as far into the block as far as the original. I have compared the two rods, old and new, and they are identical.
The only thing I can think of is somehow the cam is now in the way of the new push rod going into the block as far as the old one did. I felt with my finger tips the old rod fitting flush with inside of the block before taking it out and the new one lacks about an inch or so of fitting the same way.
I have not try to force anything although I have tried pushing by hand the new rod with the old one.
Would it be a bad idea to "bump" the ignition and turn the engine over slightly to get the cam in a new position?

Any ideas would be greatly appreciated.

Just to mention, it seems that next time taking the front right wheel off would have given me better access and a straighter line of sight and working area. Should I have done this?
Also, I read where some older engines, but not crate engines, have a bolt hole in the the front of the engine where you could put a slightly longer bolt into the block that would hold the fuel pump push rod up while installing a fuel pump. I did find the hole in front of the engine but there wasn't a bolt there to remove and put a slightly longer one in. I didn't want to assume that this bolt hole went all the way through the block to the fuel push rod. Should there be a bolt here and could I use this hole to hold up the push rod even if there isn't a bolt there now?
Sorry this being so long. I have replaced fuel pumps before, but this is the most time I have ever spent working on one.
Please help with any advice or directions.

65 Pro Vette

#1 make sure the rod is not bent lay it on a flat metal surface and roll it. put the rod in the block, have someone crank the engine with your finger on the rod, when it is all the way up stop, pull the rod put some grease on it and put it back in, install pump, make sure it is in flat to the block and tighten it up. If it is not in correctly it will bend the rod and you are in big trouble.

409/409

I used an ice pick up the access hole to hold the push rod up and sneaked the fuel pump arm in place. It worked for me.

snoopybob

There should be 2 threaded 3/8" holes on rt. front of block, the top one is the one that intersects with the fuel pump pushrod, and by using a bolt with sufficient threads, you can lock the pushrod in the upper position. There should be a short , non shouldered 3/8 bolt (preferably with a copper washer) installed permanently in that hole to prevent oil leakage. Sometimes things like smog pumps are bolted there, so it is impractical to use this method. That "grease on the rod" method works good. I also have used a sharp, skinny knife blade to hold the rod. Good luck.

snoopybob

PS: I was referring to a small block

larrywalk

There is a circular, but offset, lobe on the camshaft which actuates the fuel pump pushrod. If it is in the position which pushes the pushrod towards the fuel pump, it will be very difficult to install the fuel pump (even with a temporary bolt holding the pushrod upwards).

Since the cam turns half a turn for every full turn of the crankshaft, turning the crank a full turn will move this lobe and allow the pushrod to move away from the fuel pump cavity.

The fully retracted and fully extended position of the pushrod occurs with #1 at TDC - it alternates with each revolution. If the first try doesn't allow the pushrod to be pushed far enough upwards, turn the crank another turn and it will go farther.

Then, you can screw a longish 3/8" dia bolt finger tight into that upper hole and pinch the pushrod to hold it into place while you install the fuel pump. DON'T FORGET TO REMOVE THE BOLT AFTERWARDS!

snoopybob

Yes all true. I guess I assumed everyone knew about the eccentric on the cam

JohnZ

That bolt hole only exists on a small-block; the OP is asking about a big-block.

Frankie the Fink

Some use a dull hack saw blade to snake up over top of the fuel pump arm to hold the actuator rod up until the pump is nearly seated then slide it out - it works too....

sumter

Thanks again for all the help and great responses you all gave to help with this fuel pump rod problem. I do have one more question.
I have tried to the bent hack saw method with limited results. The Youtube videos I have watched makes it look so easy especially in an engine compartment with lots of room to work. This 66 Vette big block has a tighter engine compartment and I can only get access to the fuel pump from under the car. It would almost seem easier to take the right front wheel off the car and come straight to it. At least it is easier to get to the bolts for the fuel pump with a ratchet and some extensions coming this way. Have not taken the wheel off yet.
My question is: has anyone had to take the front right wheel off a C2 Vette to replace the fuel pump. I guess there is always a technique for doing things like this and if I am approaching this the wrong way, then please let me know.

409/409

I did mine with the ice pick from underneath and it was on a lift. No wheel removal.

JohnZ

Absolutely! First thing I do is to take the right front wheel off, especially if the car has A/C. Makes a HUGE difference.