Front spindles on my '66-are they bad?
#1
Instructor
Thread Starter
Front spindles on my '66-are they bad?
Hi everyone,
Looking at my front spindles I noticed there is a deep gouge on the flat where the side of the bearing sits. Seems like the bearing froze up then spun on the spindle?
Anyone else had this problem?
Do I need to replace the spindles?
Looking at my front spindles I noticed there is a deep gouge on the flat where the side of the bearing sits. Seems like the bearing froze up then spun on the spindle?
Anyone else had this problem?
Do I need to replace the spindles?
#2
Race Director
I am not as concerned about the area that you have the red arrow pointing to....I am more concerned on the spindle shaft diameter where the bearing rides. The shaft of the spindle in your photo looks like it has been worn down NARROWER....and THAT raised more of a concern to me.
DUB
DUB
#3
Instructor
Thread Starter
I am not as concerned about the area that you have the red arrow pointing to....I am more concerned on the spindle shaft diameter where the bearing rides. The shaft of the spindle in your photo looks like it has been worn down NARROWER....and THAT raised more of a concern to me.
DUB
DUB
I measured all the way across where the bearings sit. Inner measures 1.248" at all measured points, outer measures .748" at all measured points. It looks tapered/worn, it's just discoloration though.
I just worry the bearing wont seat in the race properly and cause damage to other parts of the car?
Last edited by Brad-SixTsix; 05-22-2016 at 06:17 PM.
#4
Le Mans Master
Your pictures don't really show what needs to be looked at. Where the bearing load is carried on the shaft should be clean with no sign of black or blue metal. Both signs of prior over heat.
The shaft should be smooth and measure full size and perfectly even across the bearing seat area.
If your spindle shows blue and black signs of heat it is now junk and should not be used.
If it is ground undersize by a previous bearing failure that will also leave it as junk.
There are machine shops that can weld them back up and re size it but the cost would be more than a new replacement or a good used donor part.
The shaft should be smooth and measure full size and perfectly even across the bearing seat area.
If your spindle shows blue and black signs of heat it is now junk and should not be used.
If it is ground undersize by a previous bearing failure that will also leave it as junk.
There are machine shops that can weld them back up and re size it but the cost would be more than a new replacement or a good used donor part.
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TCracingCA (05-22-2016)
#5
Team Owner
I know it isn't precision but
Slide a bearing on the darn thing without grease and take a look! See and mark using your rotor/hub where you are at! Measure it and mark it and pull it off and look again!
Heck I also got rid of my early small bearing spindles like clear back in the 1980s!
Heck I also got rid of my early small bearing spindles like clear back in the 1980s!
Last edited by TCracingCA; 05-22-2016 at 08:47 PM.
#6
Instructor
Thread Starter
Did you just replace them with the same kind or aftermarket?
I've been looking for aftermarket ones but haven't found any.
#7
About 15 years ago I found out the spindles on my '66 were junk. Also found that good used ones were made of unobtamium. So I went with some used C3 spindles. IIRC, I had to get C3 steering knuckle arms as well. I seem to recall having to drill a hole out to a larger size (not sure where). Other than that it was no big deal.
#8
Team Owner
I have a supply of GM sold units
Also basically if I can clean something up with Emory cloth fairly easily, I will slap it back together and go! But if it looks like machine work is needed, I tend to replace, but then I guess good replacements are getting hard to find! If the area where the bearing is riding or seats is cut in or grooved, heavy rust pitted, melted, deformed, not properly round then I don't think those conditions make for a good bearing surface! You have rust there, so someone was stingy on the grease!
I use the Redline stuff in the modern!
Last edited by TCracingCA; 05-22-2016 at 10:12 PM.
#9
Instructor
Thread Starter
Thanks for the info everyone. So a few of you have had to replace your spindles, I guess it's not uncommon then.
Searching online it seems no one makes them-The only ones that show up for sale are reconditioned ones.
I have no problem changing to C3 spindles if I can't find any c2's in good condition.
Searching online it seems no one makes them-The only ones that show up for sale are reconditioned ones.
I have no problem changing to C3 spindles if I can't find any c2's in good condition.
#10
Le Mans Master
The C3 uses the larger wheel bearings which tells us GM learned on the early versions and made them better. If you need to swap I would jump on the C3 conversion too, bigger bearings are stronger so why not?
#11
Melting Slicks
#14
Instructor
Thread Starter
The C3 conversion thing sounds like a good idea,
Is there any specific year I should look for or are all the c3 spindles the same?
What other options do I have besides the C3?
Is there any specific year I should look for or are all the c3 spindles the same?
What other options do I have besides the C3?
Last edited by Brad-SixTsix; 05-23-2016 at 12:21 AM.
#15
Instructor
Thread Starter
Well, Looking at the C3 conversion it will cost me about $400-500.
Lucky me, I just found BRAND NEW spindles for $100/pair. Sounds too good to be true though
I bought them figuring if they fit and they are as good as the manufacturer claims it would be worth the risk....If not I can always send them back.
They are made by a company called Helix Suspension. They claim to fit my '66 and maintain the stock height and geometry.
As soon as I get them I'll post pictures and more info.....
Lucky me, I just found BRAND NEW spindles for $100/pair. Sounds too good to be true though
I bought them figuring if they fit and they are as good as the manufacturer claims it would be worth the risk....If not I can always send them back.
They are made by a company called Helix Suspension. They claim to fit my '66 and maintain the stock height and geometry.
As soon as I get them I'll post pictures and more info.....
#16
Team Owner
Ps I would always advice to keep the old original parts
Throw those in a box!
#17
Race Director
When I rebuilt my cars years ago I discovered a bent spindle. Bairs sold me a nice used one that worked fine. It might be worthwhile to check with them - but his supplies of nice, used ones may have dried up by now.
#18
Race Director
If the helix suspension ones do as they say...GREAT!
If you go with the larger C3 spindles...you are aware that the bearing hubs need to be replaced also to the large ones...if I am not mistaken.
DUB
If you go with the larger C3 spindles...you are aware that the bearing hubs need to be replaced also to the large ones...if I am not mistaken.
DUB
#19
Instructor
Thread Starter
Hopefully the spindles I bought work....
#20
Instructor
Thread Starter
Well I got my spindles today, yep not the right kind.
So, now I'm looking at C3 spindles again.
If I buy the whole assembly with the spash shield, hub, and steering arm will it work with the C2 Steeriods rack and pinion setup?
I heard the C3 has a larger bolt hole on the steering arm-but is that the hole the rack would mount to or where it mounts to the spindle?
So, now I'm looking at C3 spindles again.
If I buy the whole assembly with the spash shield, hub, and steering arm will it work with the C2 Steeriods rack and pinion setup?
I heard the C3 has a larger bolt hole on the steering arm-but is that the hole the rack would mount to or where it mounts to the spindle?