65 L-76 Oil smells
05-23-2016, 09:50 PM
#1
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65 L-76 Oil smells
Some of you are aware that I was given a 65 vert L-76. I have been working through the issues I can do myself. Hasn't run in 15-20 years.
I changed the oil, and it smells strongly of fuel. It also runs very rough, although the carb was rebuilt before it was last driven decades ago. I'm also getting a little smoke in the exhaust, and it smells TERRIBLE. Any suggestions or thoughts?
I put new plugs in it (AC 45R), and it ran great for about 20 seconds, then started back to it's smelly rough idling.
I changed the oil, and it smells strongly of fuel. It also runs very rough, although the carb was rebuilt before it was last driven decades ago. I'm also getting a little smoke in the exhaust, and it smells TERRIBLE. Any suggestions or thoughts?
I put new plugs in it (AC 45R), and it ran great for about 20 seconds, then started back to it's smelly rough idling.
Last edited by CWilson; 05-23-2016 at 09:51 PM.
05-23-2016, 10:21 PM
#3
Turn 12!
Have you ever thought about taking the car to a professional to get that beauty back on the road?
Pics?
Pics?
05-23-2016, 10:25 PM
#4
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JackTripper (05-23-2016)
05-23-2016, 10:32 PM
#5
Safety Car
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StingU2 (05-23-2016)
05-24-2016, 08:36 AM
#7
Le Mans Master
Fuel pump
Fuel in the oil could also come from a bad fuel pump. Don't run the engine until you correct the problem. Fuel will dilute the oil and could damage bearings, rings etc. Jerry
05-24-2016, 09:04 AM
#8
That's one very nice car you have there. IMO, remove the carburetor and install new gaskets and NEW needle and seats on both floats, don't forget the power valve gasket.
You can do this yourself, these gaskets can dry up from non use and leak including drawing fuel through the power valve gasket. The needles for the floats can shrink up from sitting without wet fuel causing problems. I let my Holley sit for six months one time and the carburetor fuel level ran high, engine ran rough, shut it off and next day it was normal again.
You can do this yourself, these gaskets can dry up from non use and leak including drawing fuel through the power valve gasket. The needles for the floats can shrink up from sitting without wet fuel causing problems. I let my Holley sit for six months one time and the carburetor fuel level ran high, engine ran rough, shut it off and next day it was normal again.
05-24-2016, 09:32 AM
#9
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That's one very nice car you have there. IMO, remove the carburetor and install new gaskets and NEW needle and seats on both floats, don't forget the power valve gasket.
You can do this yourself, these gaskets can dry up from non use and leak including drawing fuel through the power valve gasket.
You can do this yourself, these gaskets can dry up from non use and leak including drawing fuel through the power valve gasket.
There are Holley gaskets that don't shrink on the market now. I don't remember whether Holley makes them or aftermarket but that's the kind of gaskets I'd buy.
05-25-2016, 05:28 AM
#10
Burning Brakes
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FYI: You might want to put a belt on that other pulley (idler). If that alternator pulley ever brakes you will not have anything to drive the waterpump, which will definatley cause you overheating problems.
05-25-2016, 07:57 AM
#11
Team Owner
Best advice so far...
05-25-2016, 08:18 AM
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St. Jude Donor '05
05-25-2016, 09:58 AM
#14
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I've never seen gasoline in the crankcase oil cause the plugs to foul.
I've seen carburetors that were flooding the engine, fouling the plugs and the excess/unburnt gasoline running down past the rings.
I've seen carburetors that were flooding the engine, fouling the plugs and the excess/unburnt gasoline running down past the rings.
Last edited by MikeM; 05-25-2016 at 10:05 AM.
05-30-2016, 12:14 PM
#15
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I was told by the mechanic (only works on Corvettes) that the car needs 30-35k worth of work to get the car back running safely. He wants to rebuild the engine, transmission, rear end, suspension, run all new brake and fuel lines, replace the rear spring and both trailing arms, etc.. A complete restoration of everything under the body. He said the body and frame were in really good condition.
I was thinking maybe 5K to get the few things that are safety issues fixed. (which was just a guess based on 0 actual knowledge) He also said the car was worth 22k and offered to buy it. I thought that price seemed really low, for a 65 vert L-76 with 45k original miles on original motor.
Thoughts on any of this?
I was thinking maybe 5K to get the few things that are safety issues fixed. (which was just a guess based on 0 actual knowledge) He also said the car was worth 22k and offered to buy it. I thought that price seemed really low, for a 65 vert L-76 with 45k original miles on original motor.
Thoughts on any of this?
05-30-2016, 12:20 PM
#16
Race Director
I was told by the mechanic (only works on Corvettes) that the car needs 30-35k worth of work to get the car back running safely. He wants to rebuild the engine, transmission, rear end, suspension, run all new brake and fuel lines, replace the rear spring and both trailing arms, etc.. A complete restoration of everything under the body. He said the body and frame were in really good condition.
I was thinking maybe 5K to get the few things that are safety issues fixed. (which was just a guess based on 0 actual knowledge) He also said the car was worth 22k and offered to buy it. I thought that price seemed really low, for a 65 vert L-76 with 45k original miles on original motor.
Thoughts on any of this?
I was thinking maybe 5K to get the few things that are safety issues fixed. (which was just a guess based on 0 actual knowledge) He also said the car was worth 22k and offered to buy it. I thought that price seemed really low, for a 65 vert L-76 with 45k original miles on original motor.
Thoughts on any of this?
Larry
05-30-2016, 12:42 PM
#18
Race Director
The offering price for your car is very low for what I see. Unless the frame and birdcage are both shot and require complete replacement..........and that is probably not the case.
I would start by running a compression and leak-down test on the engine, changing all fluids and lubes and rubber hoses, repacking the front wheel bearings, possibly rebuilding the brakes and replacing the pads (don't cut the rotors unless they are badly scored), replace points and plugs, install a cheap rebuild kit on the carb, check the gas tank for debris and sludge, and see if you can get it on the road. Tires may also be needed, but can be done a bit later after it is running.
You need a good/experienced vintage car or Corvette owner to help you make a list of what to do on the car to get it roadworthy and then follow the list. I provided a few thoughts above. Ohio has a LOT of good Corvette guys, so you should be able to find someone who can help. Hopefully you can do some things yourself..............if not, it will be much more difficult and costly.
Larry
I would start by running a compression and leak-down test on the engine, changing all fluids and lubes and rubber hoses, repacking the front wheel bearings, possibly rebuilding the brakes and replacing the pads (don't cut the rotors unless they are badly scored), replace points and plugs, install a cheap rebuild kit on the carb, check the gas tank for debris and sludge, and see if you can get it on the road. Tires may also be needed, but can be done a bit later after it is running.
You need a good/experienced vintage car or Corvette owner to help you make a list of what to do on the car to get it roadworthy and then follow the list. I provided a few thoughts above. Ohio has a LOT of good Corvette guys, so you should be able to find someone who can help. Hopefully you can do some things yourself..............if not, it will be much more difficult and costly.
Larry
Last edited by Powershift; 05-30-2016 at 12:43 PM.
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CWilson (05-30-2016)
05-30-2016, 12:51 PM
#20
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The offering price for your car is very low for what I see. Unless the frame and birdcage are both shot and require complete replacement..........and that is probably not the case.
I would start by running a compression and leak-down test on the engine, changing all fluids and lubes and rubber hoses, repacking the front wheel bearings, possibly rebuilding the brakes and replacing the pads (don't cut the rotors unless they are badly scored), replace points and plugs, install a cheap rebuild kit on the carb, check the gas tank for debris and sludge, and see if you can get it on the road. Tires may also be needed, but can be done a bit later after it is running.
You need a good/experienced vintage car or Corvette owner to help you make a list of what to do on the car to get it roadworthy and then follow the list. I provided a few thoughts above. Ohio has a LOT of good Corvette guys, so you should be able to find someone who can help. Hopefully you can do some things yourself..............if not, it will be much more difficult and costly.
Larry
I would start by running a compression and leak-down test on the engine, changing all fluids and lubes and rubber hoses, repacking the front wheel bearings, possibly rebuilding the brakes and replacing the pads (don't cut the rotors unless they are badly scored), replace points and plugs, install a cheap rebuild kit on the carb, check the gas tank for debris and sludge, and see if you can get it on the road. Tires may also be needed, but can be done a bit later after it is running.
You need a good/experienced vintage car or Corvette owner to help you make a list of what to do on the car to get it roadworthy and then follow the list. I provided a few thoughts above. Ohio has a LOT of good Corvette guys, so you should be able to find someone who can help. Hopefully you can do some things yourself..............if not, it will be much more difficult and costly.
Larry
Thanks for the info
