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Rear spindle bearing end play

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Old 05-27-2016, 08:52 PM
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427435
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Default Rear spindle bearing end play

My car wasn't steering well now that it's back on the road with a new frame and suspension under it. Despite having been aligned by the shop that did the disassembly and reassembly (and a couple of other things), I decided to have the alignment checked.

The good news is that, after several changes to caster and toe, it now handles fine.

The bad news is that the alignment person showed me that there was some play with the spindles. I've pulled the wheels, calipers, and disks and used a dial indicator to check end play. One checked at .005 and the other at .008. With the .008 being at the loose end of the spec, but planning on only using it a 1000 miles or so a year, should I worry about it?

I don't have any of the special tools to deal with getting the spindle out except a big brass hammer.
Old 05-27-2016, 09:33 PM
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buns
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According to the service manual you need to remove a few more items before checking the endplay.

For what it's worth....



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Old 05-27-2016, 10:11 PM
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BADBIRDCAGE
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For a thousand easy miles a year I would not bother.
Old 05-28-2016, 12:52 AM
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A little more detail. After getting the caliper and disk off, I lowered the car so the end of the spring bolt rested on a couple of wood blocks so that the half shaft was near normal position. As the half shaft can slide in and out of the diff, the only limiting factor on the spindle are the wheel bearings. There was a petty clear fell when the spindle stopped in each direction.

The micrometer was also clamped to one of the ears for mounting the caliper---------so there would not be any extraneous movement.

I don't think I'm going to the work/expense of getting a few thousands out of it.
Old 05-28-2016, 06:32 AM
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Sent you a PM.
Old 05-28-2016, 06:05 PM
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Obviously that is your call on if you want to if it or not. And for such low miles put on the car...it kinda makes sense...especially due to you not having the specific tools to do this type of job....and your 'big brass hammer' is not going to cut it here.

Not that my opinion on this matters or not...but I do this type of work and I actually remove the half shaft U-joint flange from the inner bearing flange when I check bearing and rotor run-out/end play. Whatever method a person chooses to use in this area is entirely up to them.

Not that the bearings are not important...because we know they are.....I am also concerned about the rotor and its run out so it does not effect the brake calipers.

DUB
Old 05-28-2016, 08:46 PM
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Pilot Dan
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One thing I would add to what's been said is to check the torque on the spindle nut. Pull the cotter pin and see if the nut is TIGHT as in 125 ft pds IIRC. You would be surprised how many mechanics (non Corvette) believe the rears should be adjusted to only a slight pre load and ignore the shim spacing altogether. Pilot Dan

Last edited by Pilot Dan; 05-28-2016 at 08:51 PM.
Old 05-29-2016, 08:33 PM
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With all due respect....Not meaning to be super picky...the torque on the spindle nut is 100 lbs/ft and then tighten it further so you can align the hole in the spindle and castle nut so a cotter pin can be installed.

99.5 % of the time when I am doing rear wheel bearings...when I tighten the nut to 100lbs/ft...the castle nut does not align...so when I an done getting it to align...I know it is at the 125 lbs/ft of torque. BUT I do not want to stop my initial torque at 125lbs/ft of torque and THEN have to turn the castle nut more. There is NO NEED for it to be that tight.

Because if any of you are not aware of this is that when this spindle nut is tightened...the spacer and shim and bearings are all now tightly pulled together and thus there is NO space between any of them. The shim is used to space the bearing out enough so you have your run-out spec so they can work correctly with the bearing races that are in a set position and can not move. So tightening this spindle nut to a super high torque value is doing nothing because the shim is setting the run out.

AND...if you are doing this....MAKE SURE that the threads on the spindle are DRY and NOT GREASY. Because THIS CAN effect the torque due to the threads are being lubricated with a grease instead of being DRY threads. This is NOT my opinion on IF grease, oil or anti-seize effects torque...because they actually do to some degree (which may amaze you)....but rather....it is a FACT.

DUB

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