1966 427/425 Coupe Survivor
#1
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1966 427/425 Coupe Survivor
I recently found a 1966 427/425 Coupe in a basement with 65000 original miles that had been on blocks since 1974. The car is 100 percent original but has some issues. I would like thoughts on several things. The brakes need total replacement. Would I be wise to pull and restore the parts on the car or buy replacements? Would you trust the brake lines, or replace. Would you use reproduction or take a chance on the original? The underside of the car has heavy surface rust and the rear calipers were locked to the rotors. I don't plan to do a complete restoration, just a light one worthy of the car. The paint is original but poor. I am just beginning to size up the project and just wanted ideas. The last owner (deceased) bought the car in 1970. Thanks
Last edited by Randy Childress; 06-13-2016 at 06:35 PM. Reason: add verbage
#2
Race Director
Wow - a car that hasn't been run (or maintained I assume) in 42 years. It will need everything. From the description of rust on the frame I would not trust the brake or fuel lines. Good luck.
#3
Safety Car
A lot depends on the environment it has sat in. My all original 66 sat since 92 with no plugs in it, but it was in an excellent environment. It has no corrosion and we had it running again in a few hours. On the other hand I looked at a 72 a few years back that had 24k on it, but it was stored in a damp basement and everything that could rust did.
I would advise first to figure out exactly what you have because you may do more harm than good if it truly is a survivor. Take lots of pictures for sure.
I would advise first to figure out exactly what you have because you may do more harm than good if it truly is a survivor. Take lots of pictures for sure.
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Rumblegutz (06-12-2016)
#4
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C2 of the Year Finalist - Modified 2020
Welcome to the CF! As they say, they are only original once. I would attempt to restore/rebuild all the original components. If you can't, there are shops that can. You have to have a clear conversation and understanding with the shop so your stuff is returned. All rubber parts will need to be replaced. Many things can simply be cleaned. The engine may need to be rebuilt due to rust in the cylinders. If so, DO NOT let a machine shop mill the block deck. The critical numbers are on the rt front lip. The paint, if lacquer paint it may just buff out when done by a professional.You have a big project on hand, but one that many of us would like to find. Dennis
Last edited by Bluestripe67; 06-11-2016 at 04:47 PM.
#5
Safety Car
Just to clarify, when Bluestripe says "all the rubber" it would be wise to take that literally: all front control arm bushings, rear spring bushings, probably the differential crossmember mount bushings, all front and rear stabilizer bushings, strut rod bushings, body mount bushings, motor mounts, transmission tailshaft mount, trailing arm pivot bushings, brake hoses.......... I'm sure I missed a few things; there is a boatload of chassis rubber on these cars.
John Z is going to bust my gonads, but I prefer stainless brake and fuel lines. My restoration is closing in on 20 years old. The spark plug wire braids and plug heat shields look bad. Brake lines still look factory new. The fuel lines are factory tinned Bundy weld and they don't look so great either.
You might get by with a light hone and reseal on your brake calipers depending on how deep any rust pits turn out to be. If they're too badly corroded, you might be able to get one of the many stainless sleeved caliper rebuilders to sleeve your originals. If you want to keep your original rotors, they may have to be resurfaced by grinding, NOT milling at your FLAPS. Have this done at a good machine shop with the rotors still riveted to their hubs. This will reduce any lateral run out in the finidhed rotors, which you will find by briefly searching this forum is a major PITA with factory lip type caliper piston seals. You might get lucky and have only surface rust on the brake rotors. In that case leave em alone.
OK guys, what'd I leave out?
John Z is going to bust my gonads, but I prefer stainless brake and fuel lines. My restoration is closing in on 20 years old. The spark plug wire braids and plug heat shields look bad. Brake lines still look factory new. The fuel lines are factory tinned Bundy weld and they don't look so great either.
You might get by with a light hone and reseal on your brake calipers depending on how deep any rust pits turn out to be. If they're too badly corroded, you might be able to get one of the many stainless sleeved caliper rebuilders to sleeve your originals. If you want to keep your original rotors, they may have to be resurfaced by grinding, NOT milling at your FLAPS. Have this done at a good machine shop with the rotors still riveted to their hubs. This will reduce any lateral run out in the finidhed rotors, which you will find by briefly searching this forum is a major PITA with factory lip type caliper piston seals. You might get lucky and have only surface rust on the brake rotors. In that case leave em alone.
OK guys, what'd I leave out?
Last edited by Avispa; 06-12-2016 at 09:08 AM.
#7
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2023 C2 of the Year Finalist - Unmodified
It goes without saying, but I will; put new tires on it. Don't rush into doing any repairs/restoration before posting here because once you do something, it may not be right and possibly not reversible.
As a newbie, to the forum, update your profile so we know what part of the country you're in and post pictures of your car.
As a newbie, to the forum, update your profile so we know what part of the country you're in and post pictures of your car.
#8
Pro
Pro Mechanic
The 65 I just found stored like that the bushings are some of the best I have seen on 70s or 60s car. Little dy cracking here or there. I wouldn't necessarily hammer the thing apart if its nice unless you plan to drive it much then they won't last. If you are going to look at it & drive to local show once in awhile leave it. Only unmessed with once. Sure you are past rubber life expectancy.
#9
Safety Car
Before you do anything, carefully assess what you have and what you want to do with it. Become familiar with NCRS bowtie judging criteria. Evaluate the condition, numbers, and originality of every component. Don't be in too much of a hurry to act/turn wrenches. And never take too much apart. Anyone can disassemble. There are project cars apart, never to be put together by their present owner, everywhere!
#10
Safety Car
The 65 I just found stored like that the bushings are some of the best I have seen on 70s or 60s car. Little dy cracking here or there. I wouldn't necessarily hammer the thing apart if its nice unless you plan to drive it much then they won't last. If you are going to look at it & drive to local show once in awhile leave it. Only unmessed with once. Sure you are past rubber life expectancy.
#11
Drifting
In my opinion if it's a true survivor I would proceed carefully and not change everything as some recommend. You may only have to disassemble the calipers clean them and put in new seals if they are not bad. It's only original once. You could easily spend $10k and make the car worth $10k less than you paid for it if you are not careful.
I would take some pics and weigh in on the NCRS website
I would take some pics and weigh in on the NCRS website
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In my opinion if it's a true survivor I would proceed carefully and not change everything as some recommend. You may only have to disassemble the calipers clean them and put in new seals if they are not bad. It's only original once. You could easily spend $10k and make the car worth $10k less than you paid for it if you are not careful.
I would take some pics and weigh in on the NCRS website
I would take some pics and weigh in on the NCRS website
Last edited by Randy Childress; 06-13-2016 at 06:48 PM. Reason: add
#13
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A lot depends on the environment it has sat in. My all original 66 sat since 92 with no plugs in it, but it was in an excellent environment. It has no corrosion and we had it running again in a few hours. On the other hand I looked at a 72 a few years back that had 24k on it, but it was stored in a damp basement and everything that could rust did.
I would advise first to figure out exactly what you have because you may do more harm than good if it truly is a survivor. Take lots of pictures for sure.
I would advise first to figure out exactly what you have because you may do more harm than good if it truly is a survivor. Take lots of pictures for sure.
Picture of the car as found:
#14
Safety Car
The car does not run, and the brakes are toast.Doing nothing is not an option. The paint is original and looks decent from 6 feet away, but the paint is poor and there are many small chips. The wheels on the car are just to keep it off the ground. Car was on blocks with the original black wheels off the car. The Hubcaps were in the car. I plan to get it back mechanically sound and will decide on paint at a later date. Bumpers are crappy as well.
Last edited by jimgessner; 06-14-2016 at 12:03 PM.
#16
Le Mans Master
Neat pics. When you get the chance, check out the area inside the tail panel. In '66 they made backup lights standard so maybe someone before you didn't like the idea of only one red taillight on each side.
Mike T - Prescott AZ
Mike T - Prescott AZ