dropping in FI distributor
06-12-2016, 05:27 PM
#1
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
dropping in FI distributor
Are there any tricks to doing this? I spent about an hour today and can't seem to get it right. I seems when I get it right with the pin on the collar the rotor is wrong. If I try to get the rotor in the right place it doesn't want to drop.
Thanks for any help.
Joe
Thanks for any help.
Joe
06-12-2016, 05:32 PM
#2
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St. Jude Donor '07
it shouldn't be anymore difficult than getting the engine on top dead center, the rotor pointed at approximately #1, and then dropping it in by letting it rotate to line up with #1.
as you know, the base only fits one way...
Bill
hopefully you have loosened the collar clamp that allows the top of the distributor to rotate independently of the base....
as you know, the base only fits one way...
Bill
hopefully you have loosened the collar clamp that allows the top of the distributor to rotate independently of the base....
Last edited by wmf62; 06-12-2016 at 05:33 PM.
06-12-2016, 06:30 PM
#3
Melting Slicks
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it shouldn't be anymore difficult than getting the engine on top dead center, the rotor pointed at approximately #1, and then dropping it in by letting it rotate to line up with #1.
as you know, the base only fits one way...
Bill
hopefully you have loosened the collar clamp that allows the top of the distributor to rotate independently of the base....
as you know, the base only fits one way...
Bill
hopefully you have loosened the collar clamp that allows the top of the distributor to rotate independently of the base....
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ah53 (06-12-2016)
06-12-2016, 09:29 PM
#5
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
it shouldn't be anymore difficult than getting the engine on top dead center, the rotor pointed at approximately #1, and then dropping it in by letting it rotate to line up with #1.
as you know, the base only fits one way...
Bill
hopefully you have loosened the collar clamp that allows the top of the distributor to rotate independently of the base....
as you know, the base only fits one way...
Bill
hopefully you have loosened the collar clamp that allows the top of the distributor to rotate independently of the base....
Joe
06-13-2016, 10:54 AM
#6
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It just amazes me that people keep saying line it up at TDC #1 of the compression stroke. So how are you going to get it somewhat close to the correct initial timing? Guess?
Line up the balancer notch at the target initial timing value on the timing tab.
Then when the distributor is seated, and the balancer notch is on the proper initial timing value on the tab, merely rotate it until the points just begin to open. You can do this with an ohm meter or eyeball, and with a little practice you will be within a couple of degrees of the correct value so the engine will start easily. Then tweak the distributor to the exact target value with a timing light, or set the total WOT advance while revving the engine a few hundred RPM above the point were full centrifugal advance is in.
On FI distributors you tighten the base clamp bolt and an angular position that minimizes the bend in the FI pump drive cable, then set the timing by rotating the top of the distributor and snugging down the band clamp.
Duke
P. S. I have a special tool that I use to tweak the oil pump intermediate drive shaft as required. It's commonly called a "pain mixing stick"!
Line up the balancer notch at the target initial timing value on the timing tab.
Then when the distributor is seated, and the balancer notch is on the proper initial timing value on the tab, merely rotate it until the points just begin to open. You can do this with an ohm meter or eyeball, and with a little practice you will be within a couple of degrees of the correct value so the engine will start easily. Then tweak the distributor to the exact target value with a timing light, or set the total WOT advance while revving the engine a few hundred RPM above the point were full centrifugal advance is in.
On FI distributors you tighten the base clamp bolt and an angular position that minimizes the bend in the FI pump drive cable, then set the timing by rotating the top of the distributor and snugging down the band clamp.
Duke
P. S. I have a special tool that I use to tweak the oil pump intermediate drive shaft as required. It's commonly called a "pain mixing stick"!
Last edited by SWCDuke; 06-13-2016 at 10:59 AM.
06-13-2016, 11:12 AM
#7
Race Director
As far as getting the dizzy to drop,
once you KNOW you are at TDC #1 firing position (and not TDC #6), drop the dizzy into the hole such that the rotor should be in the correct position once fully seated. As you noticed, the rotor turns as you drop in into the cam gear.
It does not matter if it has seated in the pump shaft at this point.
Now, crank the motor over, either by hand, or the starter,and the dizzy will drop down into position as it rotates over the oil pump shaft.
Now install the dizzy lock at just not tight,a nd do the timing as Duke mentioned.
Easy-peasy.
Doug
once you KNOW you are at TDC #1 firing position (and not TDC #6), drop the dizzy into the hole such that the rotor should be in the correct position once fully seated. As you noticed, the rotor turns as you drop in into the cam gear.
It does not matter if it has seated in the pump shaft at this point.
Now, crank the motor over, either by hand, or the starter,and the dizzy will drop down into position as it rotates over the oil pump shaft.
Now install the dizzy lock at just not tight,a nd do the timing as Duke mentioned.
Easy-peasy.
Doug
06-13-2016, 07:26 PM
#8
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
Doug and Duke
Thank you both for your detailed instructions. i should be hard pressed not to get it right with them. Duke I am familiar with static timing and have used it often with the Healeys. I don't know why but the fixed base of the fuelie distributor and the rotating head are boggling my mind. I'm sure once I get to it things will come together. Doug, your method of dropping the distributor is amazing in its simplicity and I'm a sure revelation to many who read this.
I should get to this on the weekend and will report back. Again thank you both.
Joe
Thank you both for your detailed instructions. i should be hard pressed not to get it right with them. Duke I am familiar with static timing and have used it often with the Healeys. I don't know why but the fixed base of the fuelie distributor and the rotating head are boggling my mind. I'm sure once I get to it things will come together. Doug, your method of dropping the distributor is amazing in its simplicity and I'm a sure revelation to many who read this.
I should get to this on the weekend and will report back. Again thank you both.
Joe
06-13-2016, 07:35 PM
#9
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St. Jude Donor '07
Doug and Duke
Thank you both for your detailed instructions. i should be hard pressed not to get it right with them. Duke I am familiar with static timing and have used it often with the Healeys. I don't know why but the fixed base of the fuelie distributor and the rotating head are boggling my mind. I'm sure once I get to it things will come together. Doug, your method of dropping the distributor is amazing in its simplicity and I'm a sure revelation to many who read this.
I should get to this on the weekend and will report back. Again thank you both.
Joe
Thank you both for your detailed instructions. i should be hard pressed not to get it right with them. Duke I am familiar with static timing and have used it often with the Healeys. I don't know why but the fixed base of the fuelie distributor and the rotating head are boggling my mind. I'm sure once I get to it things will come together. Doug, your method of dropping the distributor is amazing in its simplicity and I'm a sure revelation to many who read this.
I should get to this on the weekend and will report back. Again thank you both.
Joe
the fixed base is because the tach drive needs to be in a specific orientation, the rotating top allows you to set the timing..
but I guess you've already figured that out...
Bill
Last edited by wmf62; 06-13-2016 at 07:36 PM.
