ptjsk

Ok Guys,

I have searched the archives and have not been able to locate an answer to my situation.

In our '62, I have replaced the radiator with the Dewitt, complete with an electric fan.

I have a 350 motor in the car. I do not have a heater connected to anything and the holes are plugged.

Here's my problem and looking for any suggestions as to why it's running hot.

Obviously the top and bottom radiator hoses attach where they need to attach.

I have the fitting out of the top of the Edelbrock water pump connected to the aluminum expansion tank. Out of the tank is a small diameter line that connects to the top of the radiator.

And I assume that the system becomes pressurized once the water in the block is heated up, thus opening thermostat allowing water to flow through the top of the hose back into the radiator.

I'm only presenting this because I'm trying to figure out why the car is running hot. 210-215 with aluminum heads.

I have a 15Lb. expansion tank cap, and I'm pretty sure it's a 180 thermostat.

Do you guys see anything obvious that I may be missing?

Pat

Nowhere Man

where are you getting the reading of 210-215 and while that temp is not great its fair from hot

ohiovet

Have you checked the temp. with a IR temp measuring unit?
Our temp gauges are not very accurate.
Bruce B

leif.anderson93

As has been asked, have you measured the temperature at the thermostat with an IR gun? What is the ambient temp when you're getting these readings? Type of driving...stop and go or highway? I just got back from a one hour drive here in Dallas where the ambient is 101 degrees, THI 106 degrees and humidity at 42%. Read the thermostat housing when I pulled in the garage and she was running at 207 degrees...dash gauge showed around 200 degrees...I was quite comfortable with all the readings. As Nowhere mentioned...your temps are far from being high. The owner's manual actually states ...

ptjsk

Thanks for the response(s) guys.

I took off the edelbrock aluminum water pump to ensure it was indeed a high flow unit and to ensure I didn't have anything obstructing the flow into the block.

It all checked out good.

I did find that I had a 160 thermostat, and I went ahead and changed that to a 180.

The ambient outdoor temp is in the high 90's.

My factory temp guage pegs out almost immediately, and this after I had it rebuilt prior to putting the car back together.

I do have a secondary SW guage that is what I usually depend upon.

I'm going to take my IR gun with me for a ride. Once I see the temp reading above 210, I'll put the IR on and see what reading I get.

Thanks again,

Pat

ronarndt

"Head temps are always going to read higher than the coolant exiting the engine. Look how close the temp sensor is to the exhaust ports. Lot of heat in that area. Move your sensor up to the thermostat area, you more than likely would see lower temps.

Mike"

I did this on my 68 convert with NOM 454. Temp with the sending unit in the cylinder head gave a reading of over 210 at highway speed. Moving the sending unit to a port on the intake manifold near the thermostat changed the temp at highway speed to 180.

apahl

Hey Pat. I could be way off base here but just make sure that is not a reverse rotation water pump for a newer (90's) chevy.