DWD66VETTE

I installed LED's bulbs in the rear of my car. The brake lights work fine when hitting the peddle without the ignition turn on. When I turn the ignition to the run position the brake lights hyper flash. I installed a electronic flasher and have the same results. I also checked all my grounds. I also added a direct ground just to make sure, no change. Is this a problem with my turn signal switch in the column or something else that I'm not thinking of.

65-StingRay

I'm going to say you should try another flasher. I too have LED's in the rear and front and I use a Napa flasher that is rated for the LED's.

I believe there is an 8 pin connector on the steering column. It has 2 connectors plugged into 1. Unplug and check for any corrosion here.

Are the Grounds at rear of car for tail-lights in good condition. [dirty or corroded wires here are a problem for good connectivity]

How did you apply that direct ground?
Could very well be a grounding issue.

Good luck.

65-StingRay
Wayne

DWD66VETTE

I went out today and checked the grounds, I ran a wire from the battery ground to the tail light ground points. Still flashing, then I was listening to my electric fuel pump hum in back, it sound the same as the flashing. I unhooked the pump and the flashing stopped. I hooked a ground separate ground to the pump and the flashing was a lot less. I have back feed from the pump into the ground. As i see a small electric flash when I ground the pump wire. The electical pump looks like its wired into the wires for ascending unit for the gas tank. Should the pump be wired differently. This pump was in the car when I got it. I have no mechanical pump on the engine

Bluestripe67

I can't imagine why a electric pump should be used. Remove the problem child, install a factory pump. You will less troubles. It sounds like a recipe for disaster. Dennis

65-StingRay

Agree with Bluestripe67 - if you do not need and electric fuel pump replace with a good mechanical one. Lass hassle and mech pumps work quite well. I used a mech pump in mine with a 427 for 30 yrs until I added EFI this spring.

65-StingRay
Wayne

DWD66VETTE

It came in the car when I got it. I have gotten a mechanical pump, fuel line , mounting plate and fuel push rod. I will install on Monday and remove the electric pump. After taking a good look at the electric pump it needed replaced anyhow, also all the hoses to and from it are dry and cracked. I wouldn't trust it to drive anymore until I replace them.

66jack

I understand what your doing and why...but...are you going with all new rubber lines or are you going to hook it up to the steel line in the frame?

There might be a reason the PO ran rubber line, as the steel line might be shot...

DWD66VETTE

I'm going to be hooking new rubber to the exsiting steel line

Bobonthis

Just an FYI that if the engine is a newer crate engine some of them came without a cam lobe for mechanical fuel pumps. May want to check that before you get to far. If it is an older or year correct engine (327) it should be fine.

Tiros

The fuel pump is drawing a good bit of amps down too small a wire. The voltage is dropping across the wires resistance. When you added an extra ground, it was a little better because you created a thicker, parallel ground connection to handle some of the current. You really need to have a correctly fused and sized wire to serve the fuel pump. In addition to the lighting problem, the fuel pump is probably not too happy either

DWD66VETTE

It's the original 66 engine

DWD66VETTE

Thanks for the explanation of why the fuel pump is interfering with the lights. If I was going to keep the electric pump I would find a different current to wire it with heavier wire and add a in-line fuse.

DWD66VETTE

Ok, I removed the electric pump. While I was unhooking the hose from ascending unit it started to leak. Now I'm replacing the unit and the gasket. I started putting in the new mechanical pump. Had to install a fuel push rod and hook up new fuel lines from the 3/8 metal tube to pump and from pump to carb. My question is, after I get done hooking everything up and putting in a little gas in the tank does the pump or system need primed or bleed to get the air out or will turning the car over take care of that.

bbxlr8

Will require a little extra cranking but should be fine - just turn it over.
Been there done that many times, including just last week ironically (fuel gauge stopped working -ugh)

babbah

Get the electronic flasher with the external ground wire.

DWD66VETTE

Already did that.

DWD66VETTE

Still fighting the new fuel pump and rod. Those bolts that hold the fuel pump on are all but impossible to start and put something on them to tighten. Stopped for tonight before I get pissed and throw it across the garage.

bbxlr8

That is a major milestone as well - i.e. learning when to walk away for a bit!

DWD66VETTE

Success, finally got the bolts started and pump under the fuel rod. Finished the plumbing and filled the tank, no leaks . Started the car and no problems. I know I will be watching for leaks for a couple of weeks. Next thing on the list is to replace the power steering pump. It's been leaking for awhile. I will replace the hoses while I'm at it.
A Big Thanks to all those who have commented.

GEM '62

A couple times I have thought it would be easier to pull the engine and replace the pump rather than fight getting those bolts started.