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The 4L60e is electronic controlled so you will need the controller which is expensive. I have installed 2 700R4 which is basically the same without the electronics. You will need a different tail mount. I made my own. Shorten the driveshaft 3 inches and use a TV cable to you carb. You also need the correct connection on the carb for the correct geometry. Very important. I love the overdrive.
The 700R4 is a better choice or even a 200R4 depending on your rear gearing and engine combo.
I think the biggest problem is the total cost of any swap. Most owners become interested looking at the price of the trans only. Once they add the torque converter, trans cross member, trans mount, drive shaft/u-joints, TV cable w/linkage, shifter and even the fluid they realize the cost doubled or more.
I can say from the few automatic transmission upgrades I have done...getting the transmission bolted in place is only a small hurdle to clear.
The fluid dipstick tube and indicator can be a challenge..and that is why is use ones out of a Corvette. Making sure the 'FULL' mark on the dipstick indicator is in the correct location when the pan is off the transmission.
Making sure the T.V cable ( Throttle Valve) actually works like it needs to...which can be a bit of fun to get the sweep of the carb linkage to work with the cable and make it correct....and then using a pressure gauge to verify it is working correctly.
Then depending on the Corvette these transmission went in ...dealing with the parking brake cable and making sure it was clear of the spinning drive shaft.
Lastly was the exhaust...the factory pipes may not work due to the larger pan that is shaped differently...and this happened on a 1974 with a 700R4 I installed where I had Allen stainless steel chambered exhaust custom make the pipes from the engine to the transmission exhaust mount bracket and made sure they cleared the pan. They worked PERFECTLY!
It can be done but there are many small things that might cause for some thinking and modification.
What problems am I going to have installing a 4L60E in the tunnel of my 62?
I think the responses you have gotten so far are pretty much on target. I'm just going to add some comments to help summarize your options:
1) The 4L60E is a great transmission but it's a bit large and it requires computer control. I don't know about fitment in a C1. The aftermarket sells small computer boxes for retrofitting a 4L60E into a non-computer car.
2) The 700R4 is about the same size as a 4L60E but is not computer controlled. Shifting is modulated by a mechanical throttle position sensor similar to what was used on the original 1962 Powerglide.
3) The 2004R is physically smaller than the 700R4 and 4L60E. I believe that the 2004R will bolt right up in place of a Powerglide and will use the same driveshaft. At one time the 2004R was considered too "weak" for high performance use, but the major rebuilders have developed stronger internal parts that are good for 400+ horsepower.
I think this pretty much summarizes your options. I don't know what option is best for your situation, but I can enthusiatically recommend upgrading to one of these 4-speed automatics.
I've said it many times before, no doubt it pi$$e$ everyone off, sorry, but an automatic transmission in a Corvette is just as wrong as two boys having sex!
I've said it many times before, no doubt it pi$$e$ everyone off, sorry, but an automatic transmission in a Corvette is just as wrong as two boys having sex!
My three Vettes and 442 all have 4 speeds, no other way to go.
Joe
I installed a 700R4 behind my 383 crate motor in my 1962 less thn a year ago. I got everything from BowTie overdrives. The kit they put together for me included the rear mount (cheap) and everything you need to do it without drilling one hole anywhere on the car. My car came with a Powerglide, and they even had the linkage adapter so I was able to use the stock shifter.
I have a 3.36 rear end gear which is perfect. It'll smoke the tires at will with the strong low gear of the 700R4, and it's a smooth 1,950 RPM at 65 miles per hour with BowTie's 2,000 stall lock-up converter. I put a Hayden transmission cooler up front and monitored transmission temps all summer and it never went over 140 degrees (typically ran 125*). I finally took the gauge out.
For those that bark about automatics in a Corvette, only 25% of new C7's have manual transmissions anymore, and at my height my knee gets jambed between the door panel and steering wheel when taking my foot of the clutch. Makes cruising or spirited driving a blast. With the TV cable properly set up (no brainer) the 4 speed overdrive transmission is always in the right gear ready to go.
If you are ever in So Cal, come on by. I'll let you take it for a spin.
Speedo and tach at 65 miles per hour:
I temporarily installed a trans temp gauge (didn't want to drill any mounting holes). After running it all Summer with no issues I removed the gauge. Here's what the gauge typically read.
I made the trans cooler lines.
Here is the entire package including lock-up converter, driveshaft (I didn't want to modify the original driveshaft), tv cable, tv cable brackets, dip stick, hardware, etc. I bought an SFI approved flex plate and ARP converter bolts from Summit and the cooler from Napa.
Yep, or a 6sp.
My 76 Cutlass S, which I special ordered new, is a factory 5sp car. Of course, now the original small V8 and BW 5sp have been replaced with a W30 spec 455/Richmond 5sp. A lot of people are not quite ready for this car to come alive!
I temporarily installed a trans temp gauge (didn't want to drill any mounting holes). After running it all Summer with no issues I removed the gauge. Here's what the gauge typically read.
QUOTE]
Randy,
I would think that if you typically saw only 120-125 F, that the trans is running way too cool.
I temporarily installed a trans temp gauge (didn't want to drill any mounting holes). After running it all Summer with no issues I removed the gauge. Here's what the gauge typically read.
QUOTE]
Randy,
I would think that if you typically saw only 120-125 F, that the trans is running way too cool.
BowTie tells me trans fluid temps above 150 degrees can mean fluid temps near 200 degrees in the torque converter. If I have 125 to 140 degrees on the guage, which is measured by the electric gauge sending unit in the oil pan, then fluid temps in the converter and fluid on it's way to the cooler are in the 175 to 190 degree range. Am I correct?
My concern is the tunnel fitting over the trans. What are my options for a shift linkage?
I have a 4L80E in my '59. I used a Lokar shifter. Corvette Corrections frame, C4 suspension. Slight body modification to clear shifter linkage. Trans temp gauge mounted (permanently) in center console.
09-02-2016, 11:30 AM
The 700R4 is a better choice or even a 200R4 depending on your rear gearing and engine combo.
