[C1] Rear Wheel Bearing Seal
09-13-2016, 01:04 PM
#1
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Rear Wheel Bearing Seal
Just noticed this morning rear end grease leaking out left rear. Bearing looks fine, smooth turning, no rough spots & made in USA. Is it possible to just replace the O ring or does it make sense to do so?
Last edited by 59BlueSilver; 09-13-2016 at 01:04 PM.
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09-14-2016, 11:06 AM
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NO, he doesn't mean the lock ring, he means a shim (or spacer) which is about the size and thickness as the shims used for adjusting side carrier bearings on later rearends.
This arrangement is something which I have never been able to get a clear understanding on these early cars. BUUUUUUUUUUUT, it seems that some of the 58-62 cars used the same bearing which was used on 57 cars (which is the thinner RW307 series bearing, also used on 57 pass cars). When the 58-62 cars (some, or maybe all cars) were built, this shim in question was installed BETWEEN the axle tube and the axle bearing. In 58 (at least on pass cars), a thicker bearing of the same diameter (RW607 series) was used. And the REPLACEMENT bearing for 58-62 Vettes is the thicker RW607 series--------------WHICH THUS ELIMINATES THE NEED FOR THE SHIM. I've been working on and rebuilding these rearends (55-64 pass car and 56-62 Vette) for almost 50yrs and I've become quite familiar with them. Once the axle is out of the housing, I can change the bearing in 10-15min and it's ready to pop back in the housing. This type bearing is VERY easy to change, but I find it difficult to understand why VERY few mechanics or shops no longer know how (or don't want) to do it!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Below is a comparison of 55-6/57/58-64 axle bearings (56/57/58-62 for Vettes).
As can be seen, the center(RW307 series) and right(RW607 series) bearings are the SAME DIAMETER. But the right bearing is ABOUT 1/8in thicker.
To remove/replace these bearings, as I mentioned is TOOOOOOOOOOOOOO EASY!!!
Place the axle in a vice (this is exactly how it's instructed in the shop manual!!!!!). Use a heavy cold chisel and big hammer and partially split the lock ring (the lock ring DOES NOT have to be completely split in two). This loosens the lock ring enough that it will just slide off.
Now that the lock ring is removed (took about 4-5 good hits on the chisel with the hammer), place the axle/bearing in a press and remove the bearing---------------DO NOT, DO NOT, DO NOT PRESS OFF BOTH THE BEARING AND LOCK RING IN THE PRESS!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Clean off the bearing surface of the axle and press on the new bearing-------------WITH THIS SEAL TO THE OUTSIDE.
OH YA, DON'T FORGET TO DROP THE BEARING RETAINER ONTO THE AXLE BEFORE PRESSING ON THE BEARING!!!!!!!
Next, press on the lock ring-----------------AGAIN, DO NOT PRESS ON THE LOCK RING AND BEARING TOGETHER!!!!!!!!! PRESS THEM ON SEPARATELY!!!
When I press on the lock ring, I like to loosen the pressure, rotate the axle 90deg, press again, rotate 90deg again and press again. This assures the lock ring is fully seated. This is not mentioned in the shop manual.
This arrangement is something which I have never been able to get a clear understanding on these early cars. BUUUUUUUUUUUT, it seems that some of the 58-62 cars used the same bearing which was used on 57 cars (which is the thinner RW307 series bearing, also used on 57 pass cars). When the 58-62 cars (some, or maybe all cars) were built, this shim in question was installed BETWEEN the axle tube and the axle bearing. In 58 (at least on pass cars), a thicker bearing of the same diameter (RW607 series) was used. And the REPLACEMENT bearing for 58-62 Vettes is the thicker RW607 series--------------WHICH THUS ELIMINATES THE NEED FOR THE SHIM. I've been working on and rebuilding these rearends (55-64 pass car and 56-62 Vette) for almost 50yrs and I've become quite familiar with them. Once the axle is out of the housing, I can change the bearing in 10-15min and it's ready to pop back in the housing. This type bearing is VERY easy to change, but I find it difficult to understand why VERY few mechanics or shops no longer know how (or don't want) to do it!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Below is a comparison of 55-6/57/58-64 axle bearings (56/57/58-62 for Vettes).
As can be seen, the center(RW307 series) and right(RW607 series) bearings are the SAME DIAMETER. But the right bearing is ABOUT 1/8in thicker.
To remove/replace these bearings, as I mentioned is TOOOOOOOOOOOOOO EASY!!!
Place the axle in a vice (this is exactly how it's instructed in the shop manual!!!!!). Use a heavy cold chisel and big hammer and partially split the lock ring (the lock ring DOES NOT have to be completely split in two). This loosens the lock ring enough that it will just slide off.
Now that the lock ring is removed (took about 4-5 good hits on the chisel with the hammer), place the axle/bearing in a press and remove the bearing---------------DO NOT, DO NOT, DO NOT PRESS OFF BOTH THE BEARING AND LOCK RING IN THE PRESS!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Clean off the bearing surface of the axle and press on the new bearing-------------WITH THIS SEAL TO THE OUTSIDE.
OH YA, DON'T FORGET TO DROP THE BEARING RETAINER ONTO THE AXLE BEFORE PRESSING ON THE BEARING!!!!!!!
Next, press on the lock ring-----------------AGAIN, DO NOT PRESS ON THE LOCK RING AND BEARING TOGETHER!!!!!!!!! PRESS THEM ON SEPARATELY!!!
When I press on the lock ring, I like to loosen the pressure, rotate the axle 90deg, press again, rotate 90deg again and press again. This assures the lock ring is fully seated. This is not mentioned in the shop manual.
09-13-2016, 01:57 PM
#4
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It could be the O ring(s) due to a rough or rusted axle tube inner surface, broken O ring, etc., but you won't know it until you yank the axle, and by the time you do that, might as well just replace the bearing (with a new O rings) & the retainer.
Agree that most of the time, the bearing face seal is what fails.
Bearing manufacturers did not all use the same size O rings......so hard to order just new O rings (with any confidense of them being the right ones).
Plasticman
Agree that most of the time, the bearing face seal is what fails.
Bearing manufacturers did not all use the same size O rings......so hard to order just new O rings (with any confidense of them being the right ones).
Plasticman
Last edited by Plasticman; 09-13-2016 at 01:58 PM.
09-13-2016, 10:54 PM
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Finally finished it, took all day. Hardest part was finding someone to r&r the bearing on the shaft. Went to three places, nobody wanted to have anything to do with it. Found a restorer that would and it took him over an hour.
At first I couldn't get it seated in the axle housing all the way. After I pulled it again, out came a steel ring that was about 1/16" thick. Took it out and it seated fine. Evidently the new bearing is thicker and doesn't need the shim. No mention of this procedure in St-12.
At first I couldn't get it seated in the axle housing all the way. After I pulled it again, out came a steel ring that was about 1/16" thick. Took it out and it seated fine. Evidently the new bearing is thicker and doesn't need the shim. No mention of this procedure in St-12.
09-14-2016, 09:19 AM
#6
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Finally finished it, took all day. Hardest part was finding someone to r&r the bearing on the shaft. Went to three places, nobody wanted to have anything to do with it. Found a restorer that would and it took him over an hour.
At first I couldn't get it seated in the axle housing all the way. After I pulled it again, out came a steel ring that was about 1/16" thick. Took it out and it seated fine. Evidently the new bearing is thicker and doesn't need the shim. No mention of this procedure in St-12.
At first I couldn't get it seated in the axle housing all the way. After I pulled it again, out came a steel ring that was about 1/16" thick. Took it out and it seated fine. Evidently the new bearing is thicker and doesn't need the shim. No mention of this procedure in St-12.
Do you mean the lock ring?
09-14-2016, 11:06 AM
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NO, he doesn't mean the lock ring, he means a shim (or spacer) which is about the size and thickness as the shims used for adjusting side carrier bearings on later rearends.
This arrangement is something which I have never been able to get a clear understanding on these early cars. BUUUUUUUUUUUT, it seems that some of the 58-62 cars used the same bearing which was used on 57 cars (which is the thinner RW307 series bearing, also used on 57 pass cars). When the 58-62 cars (some, or maybe all cars) were built, this shim in question was installed BETWEEN the axle tube and the axle bearing. In 58 (at least on pass cars), a thicker bearing of the same diameter (RW607 series) was used. And the REPLACEMENT bearing for 58-62 Vettes is the thicker RW607 series--------------WHICH THUS ELIMINATES THE NEED FOR THE SHIM. I've been working on and rebuilding these rearends (55-64 pass car and 56-62 Vette) for almost 50yrs and I've become quite familiar with them. Once the axle is out of the housing, I can change the bearing in 10-15min and it's ready to pop back in the housing. This type bearing is VERY easy to change, but I find it difficult to understand why VERY few mechanics or shops no longer know how (or don't want) to do it!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Below is a comparison of 55-6/57/58-64 axle bearings (56/57/58-62 for Vettes).
As can be seen, the center(RW307 series) and right(RW607 series) bearings are the SAME DIAMETER. But the right bearing is ABOUT 1/8in thicker.
To remove/replace these bearings, as I mentioned is TOOOOOOOOOOOOOO EASY!!!
Place the axle in a vice (this is exactly how it's instructed in the shop manual!!!!!). Use a heavy cold chisel and big hammer and partially split the lock ring (the lock ring DOES NOT have to be completely split in two). This loosens the lock ring enough that it will just slide off.
Now that the lock ring is removed (took about 4-5 good hits on the chisel with the hammer), place the axle/bearing in a press and remove the bearing---------------DO NOT, DO NOT, DO NOT PRESS OFF BOTH THE BEARING AND LOCK RING IN THE PRESS!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Clean off the bearing surface of the axle and press on the new bearing-------------WITH THIS SEAL TO THE OUTSIDE.
OH YA, DON'T FORGET TO DROP THE BEARING RETAINER ONTO THE AXLE BEFORE PRESSING ON THE BEARING!!!!!!!
Next, press on the lock ring-----------------AGAIN, DO NOT PRESS ON THE LOCK RING AND BEARING TOGETHER!!!!!!!!! PRESS THEM ON SEPARATELY!!!
When I press on the lock ring, I like to loosen the pressure, rotate the axle 90deg, press again, rotate 90deg again and press again. This assures the lock ring is fully seated. This is not mentioned in the shop manual.
This arrangement is something which I have never been able to get a clear understanding on these early cars. BUUUUUUUUUUUT, it seems that some of the 58-62 cars used the same bearing which was used on 57 cars (which is the thinner RW307 series bearing, also used on 57 pass cars). When the 58-62 cars (some, or maybe all cars) were built, this shim in question was installed BETWEEN the axle tube and the axle bearing. In 58 (at least on pass cars), a thicker bearing of the same diameter (RW607 series) was used. And the REPLACEMENT bearing for 58-62 Vettes is the thicker RW607 series--------------WHICH THUS ELIMINATES THE NEED FOR THE SHIM. I've been working on and rebuilding these rearends (55-64 pass car and 56-62 Vette) for almost 50yrs and I've become quite familiar with them. Once the axle is out of the housing, I can change the bearing in 10-15min and it's ready to pop back in the housing. This type bearing is VERY easy to change, but I find it difficult to understand why VERY few mechanics or shops no longer know how (or don't want) to do it!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Below is a comparison of 55-6/57/58-64 axle bearings (56/57/58-62 for Vettes).
As can be seen, the center(RW307 series) and right(RW607 series) bearings are the SAME DIAMETER. But the right bearing is ABOUT 1/8in thicker.
To remove/replace these bearings, as I mentioned is TOOOOOOOOOOOOOO EASY!!!
Place the axle in a vice (this is exactly how it's instructed in the shop manual!!!!!). Use a heavy cold chisel and big hammer and partially split the lock ring (the lock ring DOES NOT have to be completely split in two). This loosens the lock ring enough that it will just slide off.
Now that the lock ring is removed (took about 4-5 good hits on the chisel with the hammer), place the axle/bearing in a press and remove the bearing---------------DO NOT, DO NOT, DO NOT PRESS OFF BOTH THE BEARING AND LOCK RING IN THE PRESS!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Clean off the bearing surface of the axle and press on the new bearing-------------WITH THIS SEAL TO THE OUTSIDE.
OH YA, DON'T FORGET TO DROP THE BEARING RETAINER ONTO THE AXLE BEFORE PRESSING ON THE BEARING!!!!!!!
Next, press on the lock ring-----------------AGAIN, DO NOT PRESS ON THE LOCK RING AND BEARING TOGETHER!!!!!!!!! PRESS THEM ON SEPARATELY!!!
When I press on the lock ring, I like to loosen the pressure, rotate the axle 90deg, press again, rotate 90deg again and press again. This assures the lock ring is fully seated. This is not mentioned in the shop manual.
Last edited by DZAUTO; 09-14-2016 at 11:11 AM.
The following 7 users liked this post by DZAUTO:
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and 2 others liked this post.
09-14-2016, 12:38 PM
#8
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NO, he doesn't mean the lock ring, he means a shim (or spacer) which is about the size and thickness as the shims used for adjusting side carrier bearings on later rearends.
This arrangement is something which I have never been able to get a clear understanding on these early cars. BUUUUUUUUUUUT, it seems that some of the 58-62 cars used the same bearing which was used on 57 cars (which is the thinner RW307 series bearing, also used on 57 pass cars). When the 58-62 cars (some, or maybe all cars) were built, this shim in question was installed BETWEEN the axle tube and the axle bearing. In 58 (at least on pass cars), a thicker bearing of the same diameter (RW607 series) was used. And the REPLACEMENT bearing for 58-62 Vettes is the thicker RW607 series--------------WHICH THUS ELIMINATES THE NEED FOR THE SHIM. I've been working on and rebuilding these rearends (55-64 pass car and 56-62 Vette) for almost 50yrs and I've become quite familiar with them. Once the axle is out of the housing, I can change the bearing in 10-15min and it's ready to pop back in the housing. This type bearing is VERY easy to change, but I find it difficult to understand why VERY few mechanics or shops no longer know how (or don't want) to do it!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Below is a comparison of 55-6/57/58-64 axle bearings (56/57/58-62 for Vettes).
As can be seen, the center(RW307 series) and right(RW607 series) bearings are the SAME DIAMETER. But the right bearing is ABOUT 1/8in thicker.
To remove/replace these bearings, as I mentioned is TOOOOOOOOOOOOOO EASY!!!
Place the axle in a vice (this is exactly how it's instructed in the shop manual!!!!!). Use a heavy cold chisel and big hammer and partially split the lock ring (the lock ring DOES NOT have to be completely split in two). This loosens the lock ring enough that it will just slide off.
Now that the lock ring is removed (took about 4-5 good hits on the chisel with the hammer), place the axle/bearing in a press and remove the bearing---------------DO NOT, DO NOT, DO NOT PRESS OFF BOTH THE BEARING AND LOCK RING IN THE PRESS!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Clean off the bearing surface of the axle and press on the new bearing-------------WITH THIS SEAL TO THE OUTSIDE.
OH YA, DON'T FORGET TO DROP THE BEARING RETAINER ONTO THE AXLE BEFORE PRESSING ON THE BEARING!!!!!!!
Next, press on the lock ring-----------------AGAIN, DO NOT PRESS ON THE LOCK RING AND BEARING TOGETHER!!!!!!!!! PRESS THEM ON SEPARATELY!!!
When I press on the lock ring, I like to loosen the pressure, rotate the axle 90deg, press again, rotate 90deg again and press again. This assures the lock ring is fully seated. This is not mentioned in the shop manual.
This arrangement is something which I have never been able to get a clear understanding on these early cars. BUUUUUUUUUUUT, it seems that some of the 58-62 cars used the same bearing which was used on 57 cars (which is the thinner RW307 series bearing, also used on 57 pass cars). When the 58-62 cars (some, or maybe all cars) were built, this shim in question was installed BETWEEN the axle tube and the axle bearing. In 58 (at least on pass cars), a thicker bearing of the same diameter (RW607 series) was used. And the REPLACEMENT bearing for 58-62 Vettes is the thicker RW607 series--------------WHICH THUS ELIMINATES THE NEED FOR THE SHIM. I've been working on and rebuilding these rearends (55-64 pass car and 56-62 Vette) for almost 50yrs and I've become quite familiar with them. Once the axle is out of the housing, I can change the bearing in 10-15min and it's ready to pop back in the housing. This type bearing is VERY easy to change, but I find it difficult to understand why VERY few mechanics or shops no longer know how (or don't want) to do it!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Below is a comparison of 55-6/57/58-64 axle bearings (56/57/58-62 for Vettes).
As can be seen, the center(RW307 series) and right(RW607 series) bearings are the SAME DIAMETER. But the right bearing is ABOUT 1/8in thicker.
To remove/replace these bearings, as I mentioned is TOOOOOOOOOOOOOO EASY!!!
Place the axle in a vice (this is exactly how it's instructed in the shop manual!!!!!). Use a heavy cold chisel and big hammer and partially split the lock ring (the lock ring DOES NOT have to be completely split in two). This loosens the lock ring enough that it will just slide off.
Now that the lock ring is removed (took about 4-5 good hits on the chisel with the hammer), place the axle/bearing in a press and remove the bearing---------------DO NOT, DO NOT, DO NOT PRESS OFF BOTH THE BEARING AND LOCK RING IN THE PRESS!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Clean off the bearing surface of the axle and press on the new bearing-------------WITH THIS SEAL TO THE OUTSIDE.
OH YA, DON'T FORGET TO DROP THE BEARING RETAINER ONTO THE AXLE BEFORE PRESSING ON THE BEARING!!!!!!!
Next, press on the lock ring-----------------AGAIN, DO NOT PRESS ON THE LOCK RING AND BEARING TOGETHER!!!!!!!!! PRESS THEM ON SEPARATELY!!!
When I press on the lock ring, I like to loosen the pressure, rotate the axle 90deg, press again, rotate 90deg again and press again. This assures the lock ring is fully seated. This is not mentioned in the shop manual.
09-14-2016, 12:43 PM
#9
Le Mans Master
Clean off the bearing surface of the axle and press on the new bearing-------------WITH THIS SEAL TO THE OUTSIDE.
OH YA, DON'T FORGET TO DROP THE BEARING RETAINER ONTO THE AXLE BEFORE PRESSING ON THE BEARING!!!!!!!
http://i65.photobucket.com/albums/h219/DZAUTO/Rearends/DSCN0606_zps1wf1qtez.jpg[/IMG]
Pilot Dan
09-14-2016, 01:03 PM
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Tom, question for you about the other side of this bearing, it appears sealed unlike the original open design which was able to get lubrication from the differential oil, is that correct? If so, have you had any issues using NOS bearings of this type as far as the grease inside being dried up after 50 years in the box? Reason I ask is I have some and they feel stiff to me . Thanks Pilot Dan
Pilot DanYes, a NOS bearing with seals on both sides will be stiff.
Will the grease inside still be good? I don't know, but I roll the dice and use them without any worries. If it's good, it's good. But if it's not good, oh well, on goes another bearing. I have a stash of bearings for this style of axle (I have 4 cars with this type rear) and I've become quite proficient at changing them. YES, at my age, it's a hassle, but I can still get it done. In fact, I just replaced a bearing on the T-bucket yesterday--------------along with two rear tires.
This is what both sides of the replacement bearings look like. Depending on the bearing manufacturer was, the outer seal can be various colors. I've seen green, black, red, blue.
As I understand it, the reason the replacement bearings are NOT open to the rearend oil is because the inner seal (or shield) keeps out contaminants (minute metal particles from the rearend) and the permanent sealed grease is sufficient for long life. Is it true? Hell, I don't know, but that's all that's available anymore.
09-14-2016, 01:30 PM
#12
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Tom,
I noticed the new bearing is made in China, from O'Reillys. Any experience with those? Can anyone get USA replacement bearings?
I noticed the new bearing is made in China, from O'Reillys. Any experience with those? Can anyone get USA replacement bearings?
09-14-2016, 01:40 PM
#13
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After all these years, it's a crap shoot!
04-30-2018, 10:46 PM
#14
Pictures no longer visible, help!
I have a leak out the drivers side rear diff bearing on my 57 FI Corvette. DZAUTO has a great explanation of how to do the replacement here but his photos do not download from photobucket. Says you have to upgrade your account to let a 3rd party view them. Can you just email me the photos you used for this thread? That would be very helpful to me. If you upgrade your photobucket account so others can see the photos, let us know that and we can see them here.
Thanks. Alan
Thanks. Alan
05-01-2018, 12:13 AM
#15
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Since Photobucket has hijacked the files of most everyone's pictures and has held them for ransom, MANY, MANY, MANY people-----------including me, has told them to take it and stick it where the sun don't shine!!!!
Just a few days ago I received an email survey from PB and I lowered the boom on them.
The bad part about it, is that for MANY years I have uploaded LOTS of photos to PB (rather than take up space on my computer)----------------------ya, ya, ya, ya, big mistake. Well, those PB pictures are now locked up! So I can only dig through what files I have and try to come up with pictures. ALLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLL the photos I've ever taken are on camera cards. I have a stack of camera cards and it would take forever to go through them just to find a few pictures.
Just a few days ago I received an email survey from PB and I lowered the boom on them.
The bad part about it, is that for MANY years I have uploaded LOTS of photos to PB (rather than take up space on my computer)----------------------ya, ya, ya, ya, big mistake. Well, those PB pictures are now locked up! So I can only dig through what files I have and try to come up with pictures. ALLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLL the photos I've ever taken are on camera cards. I have a stack of camera cards and it would take forever to go through them just to find a few pictures.
05-01-2018, 01:45 PM
#16
Melting Slicks
Since Photobucket has hijacked the files of most everyone's pictures and has held them for ransom, MANY, MANY, MANY people-----------including me, has told them to take it and stick it where the sun don't shine!!!!
Just a few days ago I received an email survey from PB and I lowered the boom on them.
The bad part about it, is that for MANY years I have uploaded LOTS of photos to PB (rather than take up space on my computer)----------------------ya, ya, ya, ya, big mistake. Well, those PB pictures are now locked up! So I can only dig through what files I have and try to come up with pictures. ALLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLL the photos I've ever taken are on camera cards. I have a stack of camera cards and it would take forever to go through them just to find a few pictures.
Just a few days ago I received an email survey from PB and I lowered the boom on them.
The bad part about it, is that for MANY years I have uploaded LOTS of photos to PB (rather than take up space on my computer)----------------------ya, ya, ya, ya, big mistake. Well, those PB pictures are now locked up! So I can only dig through what files I have and try to come up with pictures. ALLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLL the photos I've ever taken are on camera cards. I have a stack of camera cards and it would take forever to go through them just to find a few pictures.
Dave Z
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05-01-2018, 06:05 PM
#18
Le Mans Master
Legacy Photobucket images can be viewed. You need an extension to your browser. I use Firefox and can see all old PB images after downloading the extension. Here's how:
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...=1507818269046
Live well,
SJW
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...=1507818269046
Live well,
SJW
Last edited by SJW; 05-01-2018 at 06:06 PM.
