65GGvert

I've had lots of C2's and 3's, but this is my first C1. My steering wheel, where the turn signals are mounted, slides up and down and has rotational play. I think I need to remove the wheel and see what's supposed to hold it in place. Does it pull off like a C2, just tug on the horn button till it pops off and then a large nut holding it to the column? Any help would be appreciated. By wiggling the turn signal lever I can cause different lights to work and not work, so I think I need to check it out.

The part pointed to by the arrow slides up and down about 1/2" and rotates on the shaft about the same.

Pilot Dan

The C-1 wheel removal is the same as the C-2. Pull the horn cap and contact, remove the big nut, and then hook up the steering wheel puller, a 10 minute job to remove. The lower bell has a retaining screw with a wedge on the backside that should hold it to the column snugly (but it can still move a bit if you try), you want about a 1/8 " gap between the bell and the wheel for best appearance and function. Try snugging up that screw and adjusting the gap first. Pilot Dan

65GGvert

Thank you, are you saying there's a screw I can tighten without taking off the wheel?

wmf62

there is a screw in the wedge, but the whole design is a POS...

I suggest you replace the screw with a allen wrench head one so that you can tighten easier/tighter. also record gluing a thin piece of rubber/etc to the face of the wedge that contacts the column so that it is thicker and better able to hold on the metal surface of the column. the screw head is on the out side of the wedge, the picture shows it from the inside

kind of difficult to describe, but it will become obvious when you see it.

https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...-question.html

Bill

Frankie the Fink

If its an original setup you'll need some clutch head screwdrivers to remove the ***'y. The screws will have an hour glass shaped head. You can booger them out sometimes but you should get a set of clutch head drivers anyway - you'll encounter those screw types in the doors and elsewhere. You can get that wedge for the steering bell installed backwards so note the orientation; many will by that Plastic Dip for tool handles from Ace Hardware and dip the business end of the wedge in that stuff for several coats for more grip...

plaidside

Here are some pics on how to remove the steering wheel.

Joe

ejboyd5

As Pilot Dan said, try tightening the screw that holds the housing in place before going to the trouble of removing the steering wheel. If you move the housing around a bit before tightening the screw you may well rediscover the sweet spot where all the electrics will work as intended. Depending on the repair history of your vehicle, the screw itself may be clutch, slotted, allen or phillips headed. It will take some work to find an appropriate tool with which to reach the screw, but it is really a very easy job.

65GGvert

I tried tightening the phillips, still moved. I removed the horn cap and screws (regular slotted screws) and horn contact and wheel nut. Now I need to go to Advance and borrow or buy a wheel puller. I can't tell from the pictures what exactly tightening the Phillips screw moves to contact the column, but I can probably tell once I get a look. As you all said, it's very much like a C2 except for that turn signal housing and switch.
The turn signal clicks into the left turn position, but when I turn it to the right, I have to hold it to keep it on. Hopefully that will be repairable also.
Thanks again.

wilbur

Picture of the screw that you need to tighten (I used a small screw driver that I bent to 90*)

Frankie the Fink

Clearly somebody has dicked around in that area...clutch head screws are factory...the Philip's head screw on the back of the bell pulls the 'wedge' rearward at an increasing angle until the friction 'locks' the bell against the column - a pretty 'p!ss poor' design. Again, a little rubber dip on the contact edge makes all the difference. If you want to keep the original Philip's head there are super shorty Philip's head bits you can turn with a 1/4" wrench to make the arrangement work; its the fourth item down on this page (order several...as they get lost easily):

http://pitposse.com/po90de14inhe.html

It sounds like your canceling pins and the hub were installed 180* out as that is typically the problem with the symptoms you describe. See:

https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...post1582364916

The pins should also 'stand' proud of the bell about 7/16".

SDVette

I swapped to an allen-screw on mine.
I learned (the hard way) that you will need to 'modify' (aka bend or cut) an allen wrench to tighten the screw.. a standard allen wrench won't clear.

dcamick

This has been a real mess......I didn't realize after having the wheel, cancelling switch removed (3 times) that there were cancelling pins on the hub. I thought you all were nuts!

Yes they were sheered off. Literally had to dig them out! Replaced both with what I call split pins. I may have purchase a replacement hub.....Double epoxy both butchered holes with pins set in holes. Followed Frankie's lead from that point.

Thanks all! Great information......

Frankie the Fink

My '61 required a replacement hub. Have to say, it was a pretty nice repro piece. So, if you think you need to do that I wouldn't hesitate - mine came from Paragon or maybe Zip -- its been a while !! Properly sized roll pins will work just fine as canceling pins and again -- you need 7/16" exposed on the pins to allow your bell to be close enough to the steering ***'y to not have an unsightly gap.

A moderately priced steering wheel puller will serve you just fine forever. I think mine was like $13 at Autozone and worked on both cars just fine. No need to go big bucks on something you don't use much...

65GGvert

Well, I got a wheel puller and removed the steering wheel. I must have put that ***'y in and out 10 times and could not get the right turn signal to stay on unless I held it. Tried all kinds of adjustments. Finally bent the long spring that pushes the arm with the indent and the signal seems to work properly. I haven't put the wheel back yet so I'm not sure about the cancel function. One of the pins was loose and down inside the hub.
I also placed a stick on velcro piece on the little cam that tightens against the shaft to hold the hub.

Follow up: Everything back together and working great All lights are working great now except the right front park light. left front park llght lights up way too bright but turn signal works fine, I assume that's related but I'll get into that tomorrow.
Thank you everyone for the help and the pictures.

SDVette

Pay attention to the height of the pins. Frankie's link has the measurement. They need to be close. Those look too high.

Also, if you get a new hub, when 'tapping' them in, don't go too far! They are a bear to pull back. Ask me know I know!

65GGvert

That's not mine, someone else posted their pictures in this thread.

Frankie the Fink

If this is your first later year C1 the other area you have to watch is those 6 wires in the double connectors under the column. Bump 'em enough and the wires will work loose and its the dickens to find the problem. Doesn't hurt to give the wires a good 'push' into the connector annually or so

65GGvert

Thanks for the help. I'm following up because it bothers me when I tell someone what I think their problem might be and never hear from them again.
The right park light problem was a broken brown wire from the harness down to the connector for the lamp socket.
The left park light problem being extremely bright was the bakelite socket material inside the socket had rotated so that the contacts were horizontal instead of vertical, causing both filaments to light up when the bulb was turned. I used some small needle nose pliers and rotated it back to vertical and both the park and turn signal works fine now.

dcamick

Thanks ...Pins were set prior to shortening to 7/16". Installed over the weekend works perfectly

Now, on to the weatherstripping.........

Bryan4523

so im looking for some help in the order of what i put on for the steering wheel.

is this right.

1. Split Ring Retainer
2. Spring
3. turn signal housing
4. steering wheel
5. washer
6. Nut
7. Horn Contact
8. Screws
9 Button

Is this right. What is the placement of the split ring retainer?