[C2] How far can you bore out a 327?
#1
Drifting
Thread Starter
How far can you bore out a 327? Casting # 870
Block casting number 870. I think that is 1962 - 1965. How far can you safely bore out this engine block for a street engine approximately 350 horsepower.
Dave
Dave
Last edited by DSR; 10-26-2016 at 06:40 PM.
#4
Race Director
ALSO...let us not forget ..where are you getting the HP rating from...the back of the crankshaft...OR.... the point where the rubber meets the road????
There is a BIG difference in where you are getting it from. Because IF you are wanting it where the tires hit the ground (like on a chassis dyno)...the amount of money increases quite a bit.
I agree. Boring it out to .060" is as far as I would take it IF I had to do that.
DUB
There is a BIG difference in where you are getting it from. Because IF you are wanting it where the tires hit the ground (like on a chassis dyno)...the amount of money increases quite a bit.
I agree. Boring it out to .060" is as far as I would take it IF I had to do that.
DUB
#5
Drifting
At .60 over that's a 331CI which is what the race motors are. At 12/1 CR and 110 fuel we make a lot more than 350hp so I agree with Garrett that 350hp is easily obtainable with stock or .30 over. Remember, an engine is a pump and most of the power is made in the heads with flow into and out of the pump. Now carb it and cam it correctly, get the exhaust out and you got it.
Steve
Steve
#6
Race Director
Member Since: Mar 2001
Location: Mustang OK
Posts: 13,845
Received 3,766 Likes
on
1,669 Posts
2023 C1 of the Year Finalist - Modified
2015 C1 of the Year Finalist
Also, it is super easy to jump up to 350 cubic inches. Simply round up a 350 crank and have the main journals turned down to the size of 327 mains and drop in.
#7
Race Director
Member Since: May 2000
Location: Redondo Beach USA
Posts: 12,487
Received 1,973 Likes
on
1,188 Posts
A 30 over 327 is 331.6; 60 over is 336.6.
A 327 with OE type massaged heads, LT-1 cam, and a true CR of about 10.35 will make at least 350 honest SAE gross HP at 6500, which is about 310 SAE net at the flywheel and about 265 SAE corrected RWHP with the OE manifolds and under the car exhaust.
There are numerous ways to measure and correct HP readings, so you should be more specific on how the power is measured and what correction factor methodology to use.
You should also be concerned about low end torque. If it doesn't make at least 80 percent of peak at no more than 2000, it will feel soggy in normal driving, and the more you cam for top end power, the more low end power you loose.
Duke
A 327 with OE type massaged heads, LT-1 cam, and a true CR of about 10.35 will make at least 350 honest SAE gross HP at 6500, which is about 310 SAE net at the flywheel and about 265 SAE corrected RWHP with the OE manifolds and under the car exhaust.
There are numerous ways to measure and correct HP readings, so you should be more specific on how the power is measured and what correction factor methodology to use.
You should also be concerned about low end torque. If it doesn't make at least 80 percent of peak at no more than 2000, it will feel soggy in normal driving, and the more you cam for top end power, the more low end power you loose.
Duke
Last edited by SWCDuke; 10-26-2016 at 09:26 PM.
The following users liked this post:
C2Racer (10-26-2016)
#8
Le Mans Master
I always go as small as possible on the overbore, just so I have more options should this engine need to be overhauled again some day. The gain from adding 3 cubic inches going from .030 to .060 is not worth it to me. The block supply is drying up.
If your block is already at .060 I understand your question. Have it sonic tested and if all 8 holes are still thick enough you can go to .080 but not all blocks can do that and you will be moving into custom pistons at a higher price.
If your block is already at .060 I understand your question. Have it sonic tested and if all 8 holes are still thick enough you can go to .080 but not all blocks can do that and you will be moving into custom pistons at a higher price.
#9
Supporting Lifetime
Member Since: Sep 2005
Location: Syracuse NY
Posts: 4,014
Received 1,266 Likes
on
507 Posts
2023 C1 of the Year Finalist - Unmodified
2022 Corvette of the Year Finalist -- Unmodified
2021 C1 of the Year Winner - Unmodified
2020 C1 of the Year Finalist - Unmodified
2016 C1 of the Year Finalist
When you get into the water jacket, stop. You've gone too far.
#10
Team Owner
Member Since: Jan 2007
Location: cookeville tennessee
Posts: 28,846
Received 1,762 Likes
on
1,529 Posts
But really I wouldn't go over the 331 ci bore. A lot of people back in the day with 60 over in the 327 really had problems.
On my 327 I have gone 30 over with a set of JE forged pistons. Took the rods and main out to 10 over on the crank. Stock rods with ARP bolts thur the motor. A set of rpm heads new carb on top with a TKO 600 5 speed in the car. Drives like a dream with all the new rubber on the mounts and front end... Robert
On my 327 I have gone 30 over with a set of JE forged pistons. Took the rods and main out to 10 over on the crank. Stock rods with ARP bolts thur the motor. A set of rpm heads new carb on top with a TKO 600 5 speed in the car. Drives like a dream with all the new rubber on the mounts and front end... Robert
#11
Team Owner
Member Since: Apr 2008
Location: Coloring within the lines
Posts: 27,306
Received 1,919 Likes
on
1,332 Posts
Over boring a 327 to gain the marginally few more cubic inches for horsepower, if that is the goal, is hardly worth it. At most, you can increase engine displacement by about 1%, and at the extreme amount, risking breaking through or creating weak spots or hot spots.
You can find pistons in ten thousands increments from .010 to .060, and can buy .080, if you're daring.
You can find pistons in ten thousands increments from .010 to .060, and can buy .080, if you're daring.
#12
I didn't have a choice, my 327 is .060 but if I ever had to go further I would re sleeve all eight and go back to standard. I think a step is left in the lower cylinder area and the head holds the top of the sleeve. I don't think the water jacket is a issue if for some reason the overbore (.250") cuts into it.
I could be wrong but I think the bigger issue is decking the block to ensure the top surface seals properly because of the stamped #'s but decking is really the correct way to do this.
I forgot to add that my engine seems fine with the .060 overbore and flat tops.
I could be wrong but I think the bigger issue is decking the block to ensure the top surface seals properly because of the stamped #'s but decking is really the correct way to do this.
I forgot to add that my engine seems fine with the .060 overbore and flat tops.
Last edited by tbarb; 10-27-2016 at 05:01 AM.
The following users liked this post:
nana1964 (08-20-2021)
#13
Le Mans Master
Member Since: Nov 2015
Location: Really Central IL Illinois
Posts: 5,196
Received 1,533 Likes
on
1,035 Posts
Back in the day, racers used to take a 283 and bore it 0.120 to make a 301. This was before the 302 and 327. It was difficult to find a good block that didn't have core shift and could be bored 0.120.
As I remember, they were plagued with heating problems and split cylinder walls.
0.030 and 0.060 pistons are cheaper than the other sizes, I guess due to popularity. Go as small as you can is what I recommend.
As I remember, they were plagued with heating problems and split cylinder walls.
0.030 and 0.060 pistons are cheaper than the other sizes, I guess due to popularity. Go as small as you can is what I recommend.
#14
Drifting
Thread Starter
Thanks for all the input. I'm looking for 870 block. mine is cracked at #4 main. So, the horsepower is not an issue. Finding an 870 block that's not bored too far already is. I drive my car a lot (50,000 miles in 7 summers) and cannot have anything that's going to overheat or have any other problems due to being over bored.
Dave
Dave
#15
Drifting
Thread Starter
It sounds like maybe .060" is the max. I would like to find a block with less than .060" if possible.
Dave
Dave
Last edited by DSR; 10-27-2016 at 08:19 AM.
#16
Le Mans Master
Member Since: Dec 2009
Location: Plano IL
Posts: 5,082
Received 1,421 Likes
on
734 Posts
C1 of Year Finalist (stock) 2019
2018 C1 of Year Finalist
I just had a 283 block bored .100 over
It had been bored .060 and had knurled pistons
.08 didnt clean it up
It can be done - depends on the block and the expertise of the machine shop.
It had been bored .060 and had knurled pistons
.08 didnt clean it up
It can be done - depends on the block and the expertise of the machine shop.
The following users liked this post:
cardo0 (10-27-2016)
#17
Drifting
Why not go with a GM 383 crate engine with a warranty?
You can set it up to look like it is a stock 327...it will easily meet/exceed your hp needs, will have great street manners, will pull like a freight train, and it won't overheat. This route might be a little more money but it is a nice piece.
Just a thought...
Frank
You can set it up to look like it is a stock 327...it will easily meet/exceed your hp needs, will have great street manners, will pull like a freight train, and it won't overheat. This route might be a little more money but it is a nice piece.
Just a thought...
Frank
#18
Drifting
Thread Starter
I just noticed the cracked block yesterday so I'm not sure what route I'm going to go yet.
#20
Le Mans Master
But really I wouldn't go over the 331 ci bore. A lot of people back in the day with 60 over in the 327 really had problems.
On my 327 I have gone 30 over with a set of JE forged pistons. Took the rods and main out to 10 over on the crank. Stock rods with ARP bolts thur the motor. A set of rpm heads new carb on top with a TKO 600 5 speed in the car. Drives like a dream with all the new rubber on the mounts and front end... Robert
On my 327 I have gone 30 over with a set of JE forged pistons. Took the rods and main out to 10 over on the crank. Stock rods with ARP bolts thur the motor. A set of rpm heads new carb on top with a TKO 600 5 speed in the car. Drives like a dream with all the new rubber on the mounts and front end... Robert
We did sonic test the block before going to .60. It put out close to 400 bls torque on dyno...
I have in it a Comp Cam 256 .....great idle , power at 3,600 burns a qt of oil every 1,000 to 1,300 miles.
Better then in 1969 when it burnt or leaked 1 qt every 300......
Last edited by Jackfit; 10-27-2016 at 01:02 PM.