xkeots

I bought a NOS fuel pump as the original was shooting fuel from the top holes. I replaced the fuel lines and filter. I rebuilt my Carter AFB on my 63 327/300. My car stalls out during idle hot and cold then I have to crank the crap out of it to restart. I should mention i installed Pertronix and their coil too as I thought Problem might have been ignition. Still same starting issue. It does not happen while driving. Engine also has a Miss every 30 seconds or so during idle. I am thinking about possibly pulling floats and seeing if they are taking in gas and sinking and resetting float height.
Any thought here?
Thanks
Jax
63 327/300

Jackfit

Hi, just replaced a float with same problem (gas in float)

bluestreak63

I thought there was a procedure in the shop manual for testing the floats. When I rebuilt my AFB, I vaguely remember putting them in boiling water or maybe it was just hot water to see if there was any bubbles indicating them taking on water.

Bluestripe67

[QUOTE=xkeots;1593339954]I bought a NOS fuel pump as the original was shooting fuel from the top holes. I replaced the fuel lines and filter. I rebuilt my Carter AFB on my 63 327/300. My car stalls out during idle hot and cold then I have to crank the crap out of it to restart. I should mention i installed Pertronix and their coil too as I thought Problem might have been ignition. Still same starting issue. It does not happen while driving. Engine also has a Miss every 30 seconds or so during idle. I am thinking about possibly pulling floats and seeing if they are taking in gas and sinking and resetting float height.
Any thought here?
Thanks
Jax
63 327/300[/QUOTE

When you rebuilt the AFB, did you have the text book guide for rebuilding? There is a very special two step process for setting the float level and float drop. Then see what jets, rods and springs you have. Dennis

Pilot Dan

The AFB is an easy carb to work on and almost bullet proof if set up correctly. I am wondering if you might have some trash in the gas tank which found it's way to the carb and also derailed your new pump. I recently had gotten a bad tank of gas and had to go through the whole fuel system to get all the junk out. Sand, metal flakes, and black particles. I'd pull the carb to check the floats and for trash. It's a fairly quick job to rule out a fuel system problem.

tbarb

Jax,

Slow down a bit, many times what seems like a carburetor problem is actually a ignition issue. The red flag to me is Pertronix and there coil but some guys like them. I say either points and a NAPA IC-12 ignition coil or the breakerless SE and the NAPA coil.

When the car is at idle can you see or smell raw fuel and is the tail pipe smoking like with excess fuel. Did you go through the hot idle emulsion screw adjustments, your problem could be lean not rich. The hot air choke is a calibrated vacuum leak so if it's not connected that could be a problem.

How old are your spark plug wires, the miss at idle could be fuel distribution from lean mixtures. The NAPA premium Belden wires are very good.

xkeots

everything in car is GM marked. Only Pertronix non stock. Wires (I have a few cars, can't remember name Packard?) are same a born with not sparking in dark and pulling one off at a time changes nothing. Runs better with Pertronix, I put them in all my cars. I changed oil the other day and when car was on ramps it was tough starting making me think floats. Once the car came down itvstarted right up. Hey, from last year rebuilding Carb, anything could happen. Fuel these days sucks. I have soldered brass floats in the past. Been under hoods since 1965, just age getting me forgetful.
Jax

Frankie the Fink

If you pulled your plug wires off one at a time and it "changes nothing" then your motor wasn't running. A disconnected plug on a running motor should cause about a 200 RPM speed drop at idle....

I see the Pertronix as entirely unrelated. Having to floor the car to start it and rough idling are indications of flooding.

Next time you have the problem pop the air cleaner and look for fuel dribbling from the squirters...then shut the engine off and after about 20 minutes check again and listen for fuel 'boiling'. If so, you most likely have classic fuel percolation and it'll only get worse as you move down here to hot Florida. I've seen Harbor Freight I/R temp guns selling as cheap as $13 on sale. Get one. Next time you have the problem 'shoot' the fuel bowls. If you see temps heading north of say 145* then perc is prob the culprit; shoot them again after 20 minutes. After 45 minutes if the car starts fine that's a further indicator of perc.

If you changed the fuel pump them make damn sure that pump-to-carb hard line is NOT touching the engine's head or a radiator hose...at least a 1/8" air gap is good, more if you can get it...

When you get here to Florida find a local Wa-wa gas station and fill up from the blue-handled pump. This is ethanol free gas and may help some.

xkeots

i thought you would have understood about thevwires. I tried to say was by pulling and replacing one at a time it still runs the same. My computer is down and I am one fingering this on a phone. I have an IR for years. I will check temp. Common sense to keep lines off motor. Just felt by car on ramps and not starting it was effecting the floats.

xkeots

Can I take off carb top while base still on car and set the floats? Or will gasket fail? Just feels like carbs are starving
thanks
jax

Frankie the Fink

You can remove the air horn on both the WCFB and AFB carbs with them installed on the car.....just be DAMN careful you don't drop a screw or linkage rod clip down a throttle bore into the intake....

I would have a spare gasket handy just in case the old one is worn or get ripped; it the old one is OK you can prob reuse it...

With the top off look carefully for any crud in the bowls and that the gas is a natural color with nothing odd looking mixed in (e.g. water)..

DansYellow66

Probably not the best method if you are a bit fat-fingered but pulling the top off is pretty simple.

Frankie - you are starting to build a library of picture details that may rival JohnZ some day.

Pilot Dan

As that picture shows, you are only 4 bolts and a hose away from removing it (less than 5 minutes) which is the right way to do the job (on the bench). Take it out and properly clean it and blow out the passages with compressed air or you will never know if you got ALL the junk out of it. Remove the idle screws and blow those passages out as well.

xkeots

I have to go out of town for 2 weeks. I think this new gas and from not using car much did this. I rebuilt carb in 2015 and drove 80 miles. I did notice after car ran. It not totally warmed up but butterfly was open that when I pulled back the accelerator rod and looked in barrels, the first 2 times there was no gas flow. Then on pull 3,4,5 there were 2 steady streams of gas going into barrels. I will pull and rebuild again.
Still have a gallon can of Gunk Carb dip cleaner(the older stuff not made anymore).
I will return with facts after inam done.
Thanks
Jax