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Problems with newly rebuilt Muncie

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Old 02-16-2017, 07:05 PM   #41
DUB
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I can grasp the concept of the pedal moving to one side due to begin defective BUT...it would do it all the time when pressed if it is messed up. It is not going to 'self correct' itself.

IF the pedal were bad...I can not see how it would act differently and NOT allow the clutch to work when the engine is running and not running. Either the clutch releases or not...there is no in between.

You have your car in gear....have someone push on it and when you begin to press on your clutch pedal....when the car begins to roll...your clutch released. Simple as that.

I have mentioned it and will write it again. Many people do not check the bore concentricity. I have had GM bellhousiing be off as much as .020". I know Centerforce provides paperwork that they want people to check and correct this potential problem.

Also...I ASSUME NOTHING....when I get a new NON MAGNETIC oilite bushing..I check to make sure they go on the input shaft and not bind. And when I install it I am using a tool for installing it an not just beating it in where I can possibly put an impression in it and mess up the center hole. I am NOT saying that some of you messed up here when installing the pilot bushing...BUT...I have seen them where they are beat to crap....and when I pull the transmission and clutch off I can clearly see WHY the problem is occurring. A pilot bushing that was damaged during installation and witness marks on the face of the pilot bushing due to the person ramming the transmission in and missing the hole of the pilot bushing and leaving witness marks in the process.

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Old 06-17-2017, 03:08 PM   #42
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I'm the OP and had a new Centerforce II, and the pilot bearing (not bushing) that came with it, put in my 67 327 yesterday. Also put a new flywheel in, since the born with(?) unit had numerous fine radial cracks on the surface.



Wow, what an improvement! The shifter now shifts with the classic snick-snick smoothness of a Muncie, and the clutch pedal is much lighter to depress. The main problem I was having, with the shifter freezing in neutral after coming to a stop and taking my foot of the clutch, seems to be gone. A also replaced the clutch pedal return spring, which was permanently overstretched after 51 years. Also replaced a leaking pinion seal while the driveshaft was out; and ran down a problem with the seat heaters just in time for summer. I am not sure what the exact problem was that caused the shifter to freeze in neutral, but we think it had to do with the clutch not completely releasing, but now it's fixed.
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Old 06-18-2017, 07:50 AM   #43
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Originally Posted by LouieM View Post
I'm the OP and had a new Centerforce II, and the pilot bearing (not bushing) that came with it, put in my 67 327 yesterday. Also put a new flywheel in, since the born with(?) unit had numerous fine radial cracks on the surface.



Wow, what an improvement! The shifter now shifts with the classic snick-snick smoothness of a Muncie, and the clutch pedal is much lighter to depress. The main problem I was having, with the shifter freezing in neutral after coming to a stop and taking my foot of the clutch, seems to be gone. A also replaced the clutch pedal return spring, which was permanently overstretched after 51 years. Also replaced a leaking pinion seal while the driveshaft was out; and ran down a problem with the seat heaters just in time for summer. I am not sure what the exact problem was that caused the shifter to freeze in neutral, but we think it had to do with the clutch not completely releasing, but now it's fixed.
Thanks for the update!
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Old 06-18-2017, 10:34 AM   #44
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I should say also that the mechanic put in a pilot bearing that came with the new clutch, not an oilite bushing; a bearing had been in there before the clutch change. He also spent time rechecking the shifter linkage clearances but they were basically OK. The clutch pedal is surprisingly light compared to the heavy pedal of the gone clutch. All is well once moe in Shifterland.
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Old 06-18-2017, 01:38 PM   #45
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Thank you for your feedback.

I seriously doubt that your pilot bushing is the problem because you can get the shifter to engage when the engine is running.

You may still have issues internally such as the sliders, synchronizers, etc.

Let the guy who did it go back into it and inspect it.

YES...if you shifter linkage and shifting plates on the shifter have a lot of free-play in them...that can cause part of the problem. The linkages and plates where the shift linkage attach to the shifter needs to only be able to slide front to rear and not have any wobble in them.

DUB
DUB<
Forgive me as I only read down to here. What you say makes sense and I would like to throw in a situation I found with the pilot bearing.
As you know removing the pilot bearing can be done by packing grease in the hole and compressing the grease to push out the pilot bushing. (we usually used a old shaft).
I ran across a situation where I rebuilt a Munci for a shop. The mechanic was told to make sure he put some grease in the pilot bushing. He did, but went over board. As they tightened the 4 trans bolts they were pushing out the pilot bushing. It was forced against the input shaft and did what you were saying as a possible. Just thought I would throw that out.

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