[C2] What is has to be installed under the carpet to achieve optimal fitment?
#1
Drifting
Thread Starter
What is has to be installed under the carpet to achieve optimal fitment?
I have a 67 convertible that had no carpet installed when I bought the car as an unfinished project earlier this year. A new ACC carpet set came with the car. This particular carpet set came without Jute padding or sound/heat barrier.
I’m having trouble determining what I need to buy and install under the carpet so that it is the proper thickness to make the carpet fit properly. I contacted one of the vendors with this same question and their answer was somewhat ambiguous. That said, I ask those that have done a mid-year carpet install help me determine what else besides the carpet set I need to purchase in order to get a nice fitting result. Do I need Jute padding and sound/heat underlayment?
Thanks,
Rick
I’m having trouble determining what I need to buy and install under the carpet so that it is the proper thickness to make the carpet fit properly. I contacted one of the vendors with this same question and their answer was somewhat ambiguous. That said, I ask those that have done a mid-year carpet install help me determine what else besides the carpet set I need to purchase in order to get a nice fitting result. Do I need Jute padding and sound/heat underlayment?
Thanks,
Rick
#2
Drifting
I guess it depends on whether you have a BB and how much you like cabin heat. I see you are in OH so your summers are like mine and not as blistering as the south.
Since you have side pipes, its practically point-less to try an add sound barrier under the carpet. It won't make a stitch of difference. You need something under the molded carpet in order for everything to fit right thats for sure. I would estimate you can't add anything more than 1/4" to 3/8" material under the carpet or you will start to struggle getting the corners to fit nicely. My experience replacing carpets in C2s is limited to using Al Knoch sets. I've heard from friends over the years that ACC carpets "fit better" ... whatever that means so I don't really know if you have as much wiggle room with them as you normally do with AK sets.
Here's what I'm doing with my 66 L72 sidepipe roadster. The biggest issue is heat coming thru the firewall, transmission tunnel and floors. I'm installing double-sided foil heat barrier directly to all areas inside. Its very thin material ... closed cell polyethylene foam 3/16" core with aluminum on both sides. The product is called EZ Cool (www.lobucrod.com) and comes in big rolls. Its not as convenient as the pre-cut adhesive backed kits you can buy like KoolMat, but then its not nearly as expensive. Its claimed to stop up to 97% of radiated heat penetration, so I'll find out next summer. Then I'm adding the jute underpadding, then the carpet. I also am putting a butyl membrane on the inside of the doors prior to the door panels. This won't do much of anything for noise, although they claim it will reduce noise by up to 30%, but it will keep moisture off my door panels. The factory used a treated (waxed?) paper, but since you can't see it anyway, I'm sticking on the butyl membrance. Fyi, Bill
Since you have side pipes, its practically point-less to try an add sound barrier under the carpet. It won't make a stitch of difference. You need something under the molded carpet in order for everything to fit right thats for sure. I would estimate you can't add anything more than 1/4" to 3/8" material under the carpet or you will start to struggle getting the corners to fit nicely. My experience replacing carpets in C2s is limited to using Al Knoch sets. I've heard from friends over the years that ACC carpets "fit better" ... whatever that means so I don't really know if you have as much wiggle room with them as you normally do with AK sets.
Here's what I'm doing with my 66 L72 sidepipe roadster. The biggest issue is heat coming thru the firewall, transmission tunnel and floors. I'm installing double-sided foil heat barrier directly to all areas inside. Its very thin material ... closed cell polyethylene foam 3/16" core with aluminum on both sides. The product is called EZ Cool (www.lobucrod.com) and comes in big rolls. Its not as convenient as the pre-cut adhesive backed kits you can buy like KoolMat, but then its not nearly as expensive. Its claimed to stop up to 97% of radiated heat penetration, so I'll find out next summer. Then I'm adding the jute underpadding, then the carpet. I also am putting a butyl membrane on the inside of the doors prior to the door panels. This won't do much of anything for noise, although they claim it will reduce noise by up to 30%, but it will keep moisture off my door panels. The factory used a treated (waxed?) paper, but since you can't see it anyway, I'm sticking on the butyl membrance. Fyi, Bill
Last edited by NightshiftHD; 11-25-2016 at 12:58 PM.
#3
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NightshiftHD has good practical plan! Dennis
#4
Drifting
Thread Starter
Thanks for the tips Bill. I like your idea to use a Jute padding kit and put heat shield only on the "hot spots".
#5
Drifting
No, no, no ... I'd advise covering the entire floor with heat insulation, including firewall, footwells, transmission tunnel, and the rear cargo area. All areas under carpet plus the firewall up to the wiper arm links. The more heat you can keep out, the better. Bill
Last edited by NightshiftHD; 11-29-2016 at 01:00 PM.