alexandervdr

I have the drive shaft in a "W" configuration (as opposed to "Z"). According to some expert articles this should work equally well. Can be found in a tread starting post#22 https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...gles-c2-2.html

I installed a Keissler400 in a 64 coupe. As mentioned earlier in this thread, there is no way you can get this one done in a "Z" without having the tranny raising trough the tunnel (even after having raised the floor with extra rubber donuts) . It's on the road since a couple of weeks, still test driving and doing small adjustments on the car. No vibration...yet (?), cause I did not go over 60mph to know. I'll keep you posted, may happen this week.

OHSIXX

I must be in for a major headache. My TKO500 was delivered to a shop last week for installation. Does any install go smoothly?

Tampa Jerry

If the body is off the car, now would be a good time to add a removable cross member. I wish I did. Jerry

wmf62

wish I could (C1)....

Bill

alexandervdr

as a follow up on my previous post above #41

I just did a 80mph drive and no vibration whatsoever. As described I use a "W" in stead of the generally used "Z" configuration. I probably won't drive at much higher speeds than that (eventually 100mph once, just to give it a try ). If as in my case "W" works as good as "Z" that opens up a lot possible solutions to all who struggle to get the angles right.

daz_au

For the record, I have eliminated the vibration by using a W configuration. Even just getting the W to work required a fair amount of effort which I will add to my build thread, but it basically involved new body mounts, a small modification to the tunnel and shimming *down* the snubber.

I now have the pinion at +2.1, driveshaft at -.65 and engine at -3.45 giving operating angles of 2.75 and 2.8 and a difference of 0.05. Confirmed at 70MPH this morning to no longer vibrate.

The science says there is an increased load on the bearings at each end, I am going to have to take my chances with that as there is no way I could achieve a Z configuration within 1 degree difference just by lifting the rear of the transmission or front of diff at snubber, I tried.

Something more aggressive like lowering the front of the engine (and dealing with steering interference) or shimming the rear of the pumpkin (and dealing with the spring and exhaust interference) could most likely work, but I have decided to take my vibration free driveline and call it a draw !

alexandervdr

Glad to hear the 'W' configuration worked out for you, just as it does on my 64. Overall, it's way easier to go to 'W' than to 'Z' given the limited top side clearance in the transmission tunnel.