jcchevy

Containing to work on a 1962 project I inherited. The owner said it was started about 4 years ago and ran well. From my observation, the engine looks great; carb is very clean, engine is clean, now signs of oil leakage from anywhere, paint on intake, block, and pan look good. The current engine oil is very clean and under valve covers looks good. I removed plugs and no evidence of oil deposits, dark from carbon deposits but looed good other than that. I rotated engine by hand and did put a small amount of oil in each cylinder. Coolant is not rusty. It has an HEI installed. I know the best thing to do would be remove the distributor and do the prime of the system (done this on several engines) but getting the distributor lined back up is a pain!. I will change oil prior to start and at least disconnect coil so engine won't start to pre-lube engine. I also plan to inspect tank and change fuel filter. It does appear to have a new filter and fuel pump installed. I personally think it will spin right up, based on my previous experiences in SBC engines. Just hate to pull the distributor even though that is probably the right thing to do. Any advice is welcomed.

Big2Bird

I would think unplugging the HEI and spinning it till you have pressure would be just fine.
It's not new/rebuilt and dry. It's just been sitting, and it shouldn't hurt a thing. That fine film of oil never goes away.

66jack

I would also take off the fuel line, either at the pump or carb "before crank it trying to prime the oil".......to get rid of the old fuel thats in line from tank to carb...maybe even drain the tank and put in new fuel...

Roger Walling

To be sure that there is oil in all the bearings, you could remove the dist. and spin the oil pump with a drill. This will pressurize the whole system.

Replace the dist. and then remove the plugs and squirt a little oil in and then crank without the plugs.

Crunch527

Agree with replacing the fuel/flushing the entire fuel system as required AND priming the oil...different methods on how to do these...

jim lockwood

I guess I'll be the contrarian here....

Four years is nothing. There will still be oil on the moving parts inside the engine. The fuel in the tank will still burn.

If that were my car, I'd add fresh fuel to the tank, prime the carburetor, and turn the key. If the engine won't start (unlikely), then I'd troubleshoot what went wrong. I don't see the value in solving problems which may not even exist.

And FWIW, this is exactly what I did with my '57 fuelie which sat undriven and unstarted for 5+ years. The only extra step I took was to make sure the high pressure pump in the FI unit wasn't gummed up and hard to turn.

Don't over think this one....

Jim

MikeM

Exactly!

65GGvert

I'll tell you what I'd do if it were mine. I would not remove the distributor. I'd pull the coil wire and spin it a few seconds IF it spins freely and watch the oil pressure gauge. If it's dragging, stop and squirt some oil into each plug hole. If the pressure comes up fairly quickly, I'd fire it up and listen for any unusual sounds.
You will be advised to do a lot of things that I would not do, so keep in mind that my advice is what I would do, and have done with no issues. This is also based on your info that it ran well before and looks as clean as you say. I don't know how much gas is in the tank, but if it's low, I'd put in some fresh high test gas. Feel free to ignore if you disagree.

65tripleblack

No need for overkill on this. Four years is not a long time.

As an example, I started an engine that hadn't been cranked for 14 years after replacing the battery, adding 2 cans of dry gas to the tank, and cranking it to check for fuel flow to the injector rail. I shot some oil into the cylinders, checked the plugs and it fired off. I let it run for a couple minutes, then changed the gas filter and cleaned the injectors. This was on a 15 degree day.

I then filled the flat, dry rotted tires, cleaned all the bird shlt off the windshield, removed the dead animals from the floor, and drove it 50 miles home.

In your case, I'd just fire it up and drive off.

128racecar

I'm with Jim on this one. I have started cars that have sat much longer. For piece of mind sake, and to save on your battery, you can crank it with the plugs out until the oil pressure rises on your gauge and fuel is evident from the disconnected fuel line. This way there is less load on the crank bearings until the oil system is pressurized. Then stick the plugs back in and fire it up. Easier than pulling the distributor, and then having to re-time it.

I would siphon as much of the old fuel out as possible, and put in some fresh premium. It will minimize some running issues once you get it going.

You could always shoot a video of it starting and post it for us here on CF

Marc in Indy

Mark_Milner

Like Jim Lockwood, MikeM, 65GG, Marc, TripleBlack and others said, don't overthink it. Four years is nothing.

You have the plugs out. What kind of HEI, a real Chevy HEI made from 1975 to now? If so, pull the 12 volt wire off the side, crank it until you have oil pressure.

Put the plugs back in, hook up the wires, and fire it up. Unless you are in some nasty environment, odds are the gas will fire up fine. It may run a bit rough, but you can add good gas to the old unless you have a full tank, and all should be in in a tank or two.

AZDoug

But not very well.

Put a quart of Lucas gas treatment in the tank (available at Walmart). (yeah, I know the direction say a couple oz/tank, but that is for newer gas).

I know an engine rebuilder that has shown me sets of pistons taken out of cars that were only rarely driven, with very old gas. The rings were glued into the ring grooves with nasty brown varnish.

The gas treatment will keep that from happening. And you don't have to find a way to dispose of the old gas.

Doug

128racecar

Little tip for old gas disposal. Call your local fire department. They always take it off my hands to use for training exercises.

Marc in Indy

GTOguy

Nuts! Start it up and drive it. 4 years is NOTHING. We have cars in our fleet that sit 6-8 years with no prep. sometimes the electric fuel pumps fail from sitting. They always need a new battery. But they fire right up and are placed in service. I installed a new battery in my '65 GTO that was at my father's house for 4 years in the basement and drove it 180 miles to my house, with most of the 4-5 year old fuel in the car. No worries at all. As a mechanic, I can tell you an engine sitting for 4 years is not an issue at all. Not one bit.

OldKarz

I just fired up a old truck that had been sitting for 7 years under cover, not outdoors. All it took was a jump box. I drove down and filled it up with new fuel, no issues but low air in tires.

Randy G.

I would keep an eye out to make sure the float isn't stuck while it's running. You'll know right away, but better safe than sorry. Other than that I agree with Jim.

To Jim's point about making sure the high pressure pump in the FI unit wasn't gummed up. My '57 fuelie sat for several months one time without starting it. I jumped in, spun it and after a couple of 10 second attempts on the starter I decided to prime it to see if it would run. As long as I kept the gas flowing in my squirt bottle it ran. I pulled the cable from the distributor to the pump and it was snapped. I stuck a new cable in the pump side, worked it back and forth a few times in the pump until it turned freely, put it all back together and it fired right up. Gas in CA stinks. Even if it sits 3-4 weeks I pull the cable and spin it by hand first.

dplotkin

The automotive aftermarket industry depends on you ignoring Mr. Lockwood's advice.

Dan

ejboyd5

Four years? Don't overthink - Just start it!

Swept57

My 57 Coronet sat for 7 years and I was sure I would have to drain the fuel. But when I started to do so, it smelled like fresh gas, not even a hint of varnish smell. So I stopped draining, shot some ether into the carb and it fired right up. If you do smell varnish in the tank, I would drain.

C2 Hot Cam Guy

I like getting oil to everything as quick as possible, i would pull the valve covers pour oil on the valves , oil in the plug holes then spin the motor , covers back on fresh plugs hot batterry fresh gas & go . lube is important