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[C1] C1 Z-bar stud location?

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Old 01-18-2017, 02:24 AM
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bowtie racing
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Default C1 Z-bar stud location?

I am converting powerglide c1 to manual trans. Orginal manual cars had the cross bar stud on bracket what was mounted on cast iron bellhousing. This has newer engine and aluminium bellhousing without place for cross bar stud bracket. Is the stud mount on the block in correct postion?

I cant double on the frame mount because I need to weld that too on automatic car frame.
Old 01-18-2017, 03:50 AM
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Originally Posted by bowtie racing
I am converting powerglide c1 to manual trans. Orginal manual cars had the cross bar stud on bracket what was mounted on cast iron bellhousing. This has newer engine and aluminium bellhousing without place for cross bar stud bracket. Is the stud mount on the block in correct postion?

I cant double on the frame mount because I need to weld that too on automatic car frame.
probably won't work for this situation, but is food for thought.. this is a bracket that was made for the engine end ball for my ZZ4.

Bill
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Old 01-18-2017, 08:27 AM
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Robert61
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I converted my 61 to an auto. I still have the frame sitting around. It looks like the ball needs to be about 4 1/8" forward of the back of the block. The hole in the block is not in the right place unless there is room to move the mount you are attaching to the frame back and then use it as if it were a later style. The ball is approximately 2 3/4" lower then the hole in the block also. I do have every piece of the oe 4 speed linkage and pedals.
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Old 01-18-2017, 10:18 AM
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Originally Posted by wmf62
probably won't work for this situation, but is food for thought.. this is a bracket that was made for the engine end ball for my ZZ4.

Bill

Great drawing!!

Is that supposed to come between those to later style pivot ball holes on the block? Little bit angle?

Sorry about bad pic..

Old 01-18-2017, 10:20 AM
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Originally Posted by Robert61
I converted my 61 to an auto. I still have the frame sitting around. It looks like the ball needs to be about 4 1/8" forward of the back of the block. The hole in the block is not in the right place unless there is room to move the mount you are attaching to the frame back and then use it as if it were a later style. The ball is approximately 2 3/4" lower then the hole in the block also. I do have every piece of the oe 4 speed linkage and pedals.
Yes I could weld the frame part in newer style location, but I am looking for oem style assembly. I try to measure it
Old 01-18-2017, 10:41 AM
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Could this be close enough?

Old 01-18-2017, 11:32 AM
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Originally Posted by wmf62
probably won't work for this situation, but is food for thought.. this is a bracket that was made for the engine end ball for my ZZ4.

Bill
I did the same thing. Its customized rather than bubbaized.

Mine is more of an L shape on its horizontal. The long section is where the bolts connect to the bell housing and the first hole in the engine block. The other part is lower which matches the clutch cross shaft. I did have to grind down the side of the engine casting where it stuck out. Then used the flat tab section.


Something like this:


Also had to shim it so it sits flush. Plus some grinding on the side of the block to make it a smooth transition.

Last edited by jimh_1962; 01-18-2017 at 11:41 AM.
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Old 01-18-2017, 11:42 AM
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That's close. The ball should be about 3 3/4" from the rear of the block, I just measured again. And down 1 13/16" from the holes you have the templet bolted to. That should get you real close. Jimh slipped one in on me. I was referring to your post

Last edited by Robert61; 01-18-2017 at 11:45 AM.
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Old 01-18-2017, 11:54 AM
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Thanks guys!!!
Old 01-19-2017, 09:46 AM
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While I was there I added zerk fitting and poly bushing to Z-bar.

Old 01-19-2017, 10:40 AM
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Originally Posted by bowtie racing
While I was there I added zerk fitting and poly bushing to Z-bar.

I put a wooden dowel in mine then added two zerk fittings.
Old 01-19-2017, 03:43 PM
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Also ditched the rubber/steel bushing and went with a plastic/bronze one instead.

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