[C2] new lars rebuilt Distributor FOR road test
02-10-2017, 12:37 PM
#21
Safety Car
You're implying that you need to dyno test every car and engine to get a distributor set up right - they make distributor machines for a reason.. Or are you advocating running the car through redline on the street to take data? I have done enough dyno testing over the past 30 years to be able to get these distributors set up so close that they all run extremely well. I don't need to flog a customer car to know they will run well.
I have no idea why you have a problem with me. Glad you have your car set up the way you like it.
Lars
I have no idea why you have a problem with me. Glad you have your car set up the way you like it.
Lars
The majority of people here have stock engines and in these cases what you do is just fine. No insult intended.
Just so you know: I modified my distributor to baseline 20 degrees spark advance @ 900 RPM (idle). The centrifugal advance is limited to an additional 16 degrees for a WOT total of 36 degrees, all in by 2300 RPM. The vacuum advance is adjustable, and limited to 12 degrees. I don't think you would do that to someone's distributor based on a phone conversation.
My combustion chambers are compact, and so respond better to 36 degrees total advance rather than 38 degrees for standard wedge heads or 40 degrees for open chamber smog heads.
Relax, have a great day, and have a few beers.
Last edited by 65tripleblack; 02-10-2017 at 12:40 PM.
02-10-2017, 07:37 PM
#22
Tech Contributor
Member Since: Aug 1999
Location: At my Bar drinking and wrenching in Lafayette Colorado
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Actually, your setup is almost identical to the setups I use on most modest performance engines, depending on the info I receive from the owner: I set them up for 18 initial, 18 centrifugal (for 36 total), all-in at 2800-3000, and I limit the vacuum advance to 11-12 degrees. On my own 407 engine, with a solid roller cam and better heads than stock, I run 24 initial with only 8 degrees centrifugal for 32 total, all-in at 2500 (that's where the dyno showed best power and torque), with 11 degrees vacuum. On more modest street engines, I set them up for 16 initial, 20 centrifugal (for 36 total), all-in at, or slightly before, 3000, with 12 degrees from vacuum. These are generic "recipes" that work very well if you can place the specific engine into a "group" of general performance.
...and no offense taken. You need to stop by for a beer at my bar.
Lars
...and no offense taken. You need to stop by for a beer at my bar.
Lars
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65tripleblack (02-11-2017)
04-19-2017, 06:25 AM
#23
Burning Brakes
Member Since: Apr 2009
Location: Somewhere North of The 49th Parallel Ontario
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18 degrees centrifugal advance
Curve starts at 800 rpm
Full advance all in at 2800 rpm
Dwell set at 30.3 Degrees
Set timing to 18 degrees below 750 rpm, or set for 36 total
Vac advance starts at 6.5"
Full vac advance 11 degrees at 11".
Went for the inaugural test drive and I couldn't believe the difference. I had a smile on my face from ear to ear. It was like a rocket. My sidepies even sounded better,lol. Thank you Lars for a job well done.
04-19-2017, 08:10 AM
#24
Team Owner
Yup - Lars even 'woke up' my lil ole 63 250 hp mill...
04-19-2017, 03:56 PM
#26
Drifting
Member Since: Apr 2014
Location: montague michigan
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C2 of Year Finalist (stock) 2019
Actually, your setup is almost identical to the setups I use on most modest performance engines, depending on the info I receive from the owner: I set them up for 18 initial, 18 centrifugal (for 36 total), all-in at 2800-3000, and I limit the vacuum advance to 11-12 degrees. On my own 407 engine, with a solid roller cam and better heads than stock, I run 24 initial with only 8 degrees centrifugal for 32 total, all-in at 2500 (that's where the dyno showed best power and torque), with 11 degrees vacuum. On more modest street engines, I set them up for 16 initial, 20 centrifugal (for 36 total), all-in at, or slightly before, 3000, with 12 degrees from vacuum. These are generic "recipes" that work very well if you can place the specific engine into a "group" of general performance.
...and no offense taken. You need to stop by for a beer at my bar.
Lars
...and no offense taken. You need to stop by for a beer at my bar.
Lars
04-22-2017, 04:06 PM
#27
Actually, your setup is almost identical to the setups I use on most modest performance engines, depending on the info I receive from the owner: I set them up for 18 initial, 18 centrifugal (for 36 total), all-in at 2800-3000, and I limit the vacuum advance to 11-12 degrees. On my own 407 engine, with a solid roller cam and better heads than stock, I run 24 initial with only 8 degrees centrifugal for 32 total, all-in at 2500 (that's where the dyno showed best power and torque), with 11 degrees vacuum. On more modest street engines, I set them up for 16 initial, 20 centrifugal (for 36 total), all-in at, or slightly before, 3000, with 12 degrees from vacuum. These are generic "recipes" that work very well if you can place the specific engine into a "group" of general performance.
...and no offense taken. You need to stop by for a beer at my bar.
Lars
...and no offense taken. You need to stop by for a beer at my bar.
Lars
04-24-2017, 10:23 AM
#28
Instructor
Tom
04-25-2017, 02:00 PM
#29
Instructor
Member Since: Aug 2013
Location: San Juan Puerto Rico
Posts: 144
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I respect anyone who can get a distributor to run correct with so many different variables. However , No one was able to set my engine distributor correct, and carburetor, except, Mr. Lars Grimsrud. It has been, many many miles since then!
04-26-2017, 07:44 AM
#30
Team Owner
Now I have to wrestle with the revelation that I have no idea how to tune an engine. After all these years.
Oh...the humanity!
