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Healight Bucket Adjustent

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Old 02-16-2017, 03:17 PM   #1
Sky65
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Default Healight Bucket Adjustent

I need to adjust my rt headlight bucket. It is tight to the outside but otherwise good. Can I shift the bucket to the passenger side with out removing or making other adjustments If so how? I am trying to keep from pulling the hood.

Thanks
Tom
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Old 02-16-2017, 05:50 PM   #2
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I'm a bit confused by your description. You mention that it's the rt bucket and tight to the "outside". Then you ask if it can be shifted to the "passenger side "? Isn't the rt outside the passenger side?


Anyway, maybe you were confusing the two so, if there's a little play at the Y stop (inside) it can be shifted towards the inside by loosening the "outer" collar then pushing the bucket over and re-tightening the collar. It's a bit of a PITA to do but I've done it before using a mirror, small LED flashlight and my Helen Keller "feelers" without having to remove anything. The collar uses an Allen wrench and you may need to rotate the bucket until your able to access it. It took me a few tries before I found the correct size wrench. Maybe someone can help you with the wrench size. It will save some time if you already have the right tool.
If, on the other hand, there is NO extra movement at the Y stop, unfortunately it's time for surgery. Good luck.

Gary

Last edited by Gary's '66; 02-16-2017 at 06:03 PM.
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Old 02-16-2017, 06:05 PM   #3
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Thanks Gary.
I found the outer collar and the allen was in an accessible position with the bucket closed. I loosened the collar but it was not touching anything so it made no difference in the position. From other information I found it looked like your process should do it. Do I have to loosen the Y stop on the motor side as well? Is that splined or keyed?

Thanks
Tom
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Old 02-16-2017, 06:16 PM   #4
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Originally Posted by Sky65 View Post
Thanks Gary.
I found the outer collar and the allen was in an accessible position with the bucket closed. I loosened the collar but it was not touching anything so it made no difference in the position. From other information I found it looked like your process should do it. Do I have to loosen the Y stop on the motor side as well? Is that splined or keyed?

Thanks
Tom
Tom,

Yes, the Y stop will need to be loosed. It is splined however, your not changing it's position so that's not an issue. The bad news is that you will need to loosen the bolt that goes through the base of the Y stop which is virtually impossible to access without either removing the hood OR going through the front by removing the bumpers and grill.

Sorry, but that's the only way I know of when adjusting the Y stop. Hopefully someone else found and easier solution and will post it.

Gary
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Old 02-17-2017, 03:03 PM   #5
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Tom,

Here's another thought on how you MAY be able to access that Y stop pinch bolt. By removing the motor you just might be able to get a wrench or socket on that bolt and be able to loosen it just enough to move it on the shaft and allow the extra play you need. If so, be sure you also loosen the outer collar then re-tighten it and, the Y stop afterwards. Hope this helps. Good luck!

Gary

Last edited by Gary's '66; 02-17-2017 at 03:06 PM.
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Old 02-17-2017, 04:14 PM   #6
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Thanks Gary. Mike Geary suggested that as well and it worked! I pulled the motor today and that did the trick. Made the access to the stop bracket much easier All adjusted now.

Thanks guys for the help!
Tom
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Old 02-17-2017, 05:41 PM   #7
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Glad hear you were able to get it done.

Gary
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Old 04-03-2017, 07:51 PM   #8
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Thanks for posting, Sky65 and for the advice, Gary's 66. I'd like to adjust my buckets, if possible.

The P side looks well oriented (at least to my standards) but the top left corner is low.

The D side has a larger gap on the left and the top left is high.

I'm guessing that adjust the height on the corners is the hardest part. Any advice would be much appreciated.

P Side:





D side:



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Old 04-03-2017, 09:14 PM   #9
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[QUOTE=Reeseb;1594449221]Thanks for posting, Sky65 and for the advice, Gary's 66. I'd like to adjust my buckets, if possible.

The P side looks well oriented (at least to my standards) but the top left corner is low.

The D side has a larger gap on the left and the top left is high.

I'm guessing that adjust the height on the corners is the hardest part. Any advice would be much appreciated.

Reeseb,

You've guessed correctly.

You'll need to access the inner bolts that that hold the shafts in place. Not impossible but can be a real PITA since you'll need to remove the bumpers and grill with the possibility of the hood as well. Good luck.

Gary
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Old 04-03-2017, 09:47 PM   #10
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Default bucket adjustment

No need to pull grille, bumpers or hood.

Pull the motors and then remove the bulbs & shells. The headlight bucket has an access hole on each end that allows you to get onto the positioning bolts. 3 on each side.

These bolts control the front/back and up/down position of the bucket.
Side to side position is done last, by adjusting the collar on the outboard shaft and Y-stop. I loosen them both and set the side gaps with bondo spreaders jammed into the gaps. Makes it easy to tighten up the collar and Y-stop without things moving around on you.




Yes I got a bit tight when doing this nose, but they DO rotate without binding.

Last edited by Mike Geary; 04-03-2017 at 09:47 PM.
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Old 04-03-2017, 09:50 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Reeseb View Post
Thanks for posting, Sky65 and for the advice, Gary's 66. I'd like to adjust my buckets, if possible.

The P side looks well oriented (at least to my standards) but the top left corner is low.

The D side has a larger gap on the left and the top left is high.

I'm guessing that adjust the height on the corners is the hardest part. Any advice would be much appreciated.
My suggestion is to remove the motors as suggested to me. You can then check the door operation by just moving them by hand. There are lots of adjustments than can be made and door and it's operation can be affected by them all. Also I found on my car the best fit is all I could get. A perfect fit all around was not possible. Remember to check the bucket front edge to body alignment. You get the top perfect and find the leading edge off and more noticeable.

Good luck
Tom
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Old 04-03-2017, 09:50 PM   #12
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[QUOTE=Gary's '66;1594449802]
Quote:
Originally Posted by Reeseb View Post
Thanks for posting, Sky65 and for the advice, Gary's 66. I'd like to adjust my buckets, if possible.

The P side looks well oriented (at least to my standards) but the top left corner is low.

The D side has a larger gap on the left and the top left is high.

I'm guessing that adjust the height on the corners is the hardest part. Any advice would be much appreciated.

Reeseb,

You've guessed correctly.

You'll need to access the inner bolts that that hold the shafts in place. Not impossible but can be a real PITA since you'll need to remove the bumpers and grill with the possibility of the hood as well. Good luck.

Gary
I'm thinking that I could be up against a body issue on the P side. Not sure. There was some obvious repair on that side and in the area where the bucket is low. Maybe I'll deal with the D side first and do some analysis first before working on the P side. I definitely want to get the D side centered better, at least. Thanks!
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Old 04-03-2017, 09:57 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike Geary View Post
No need to pull grille, bumpers or hood.

Pull the motors and then remove the bulbs & shells. The headlight bucket has an access hole on each end that allows you to get onto the positioning bolts. 3 on each side.

These bolts control the front/back and up/down position of the bucket.
Side to side position is done last, by adjusting the collar on the outboard shaft and Y-stop. I loosen them both and set the side gaps with bondo spreaders jammed into the gaps. Makes it easy to tighten up the collar and Y-stop without things moving around on you.




Yes I got a bit tight when doing this nose, but they DO rotate without binding.
That alignment looks awesome. Better than factory, I'm sure!
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Old 04-03-2017, 09:59 PM   #14
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Take a look at my P side pic showing the low corner. Does that look like a crack repair or was a new piece put in place?
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Old 04-03-2017, 11:13 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike Geary View Post
No need to pull grille, bumpers or hood.

Pull the motors and then remove the bulbs & shells. The headlight bucket has an access hole on each end that allows you to get onto the positioning bolts. 3 on each side.

These bolts control the front/back and up/down position of the bucket.
Side to side position is done last, by adjusting the collar on the outboard shaft and Y-stop. I loosen them both and set the side gaps with bondo spreaders jammed into the gaps. Makes it easy to tighten up the collar and Y-stop without things moving around on you.




Yes I got a bit tight when doing this nose, but they DO rotate without binding.
Mike,

I was referring to the inside nose "plate" bolts. It appears that the OP's car has had some body work in that area. If so, there's a good possibility that the holes in those plates are elongated, as was such the case with my car.

Gary
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Old 04-04-2017, 12:52 PM   #16
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Mike,

I was referring to the inside nose "plate" bolts. It appears that the OP's car has had some body work in that area. If so, there's a good possibility that the holes in those plates are elongated, as was such the case with my car.

Gary
Gary: understand, but maybe '66s are different than '65s. Once I pull the motors and remove the bulbs, I can completely remove the bucket if desired. All 6 bolts (nose end plate) are accessible by rotating the bucket and going through the access holes. With the bumpers and grille left on... The key is having the motors off so you can flip the bucket around as you get at the bolts.

Mike
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Old 04-04-2017, 08:09 PM   #17
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Originally Posted by Mike Geary View Post
Gary: understand, but maybe '66s are different than '65s. (snip) Mike
Nope, 65 and 66 buckets and hardware are identical, and best adjusted just as you laid out Mike! I love nice tight (and straight) gaps like yours! Bill
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