ILBMF

A couple of months ago I told you guys about the new water pump I bought was leaking from the back side so I bought a reman pump from Napa. When I was painting the Napa pump I noticed a crack in the casting where the heater hose fitting screws in. I took it back for a refund and decided to remove the rear plate from the new leaker and make a gasket and put it back on using anaerobic sealant and put it back on.

All was well and no it doesn't leak, but now I notice the a/c belt barely rubs the lower radiator hose once the engine is hot and the hose swells a bit. This rubbing is in the area close to the pump, but not where the hose fits over the outlet, just beyond that. When the engine is cold the belt is about 1/16'' from the hose.

I guess I'm going to take the pump that came off of the engine before I rebuilt it and just rebuild that pump. The question is, where do I get the parts for this old pump to do a rebuild? I'm fairly certain it's not original to the 427. The only casting marks I see are Made in USA on the driver's side flat surface, the numbers 5221 just above that on the flat surface and a raised square about 1/2'' X 1/2'' just to the left of the weep hole on the flat surface.

The only other alternative is to buy another pump which I can do, but I want to know where to get a quality accurately fitting pump or the rebuild parts. This is the kind of BS I don't really need when I'm coming down the home stretch on this restoration

MikeM

On a small block,if you put the bottom hose on upside down, you will have that problem. Don't know if that applies to a BB.

wmf62

Bill

ILBMF

No, it's rubbing about an inch past the casting outlet and that end of the hose curves slightly toward the engine before the main bend toward the radiator.

MikeM

Sounds familiar but it's been a long time since I put a hose on backwards.

I don't know what else to tell you.

PAmotorman

if you have too long a belt and the alternator is out and down too far this will happen

Plasticman

Check your pulley alignment to make sure the w/pump flange is installed at the correct depth (w/pump pulley aligned with crank pulley).

plasticman

Jackfit

ILBMF

The alternator is on the driver's side of the engine. The car has aftermarket a/c and that's the belt that's rubbing. All pulleys are in perfect alignment. The belt rubs the hose very close to where the hose attaches to the pump like maybe an inch from the pump. I bought this pump from Jegs and I'm sure it's just a piece of $hit because when I was building the engine I had to grind the pump a bit to clear the timing chain cover.

I just yesterday ordered a new pump from Zip...USA made.

ohiovet

Take a small piece of a coffee can 2" by 2" and clamp it on the hose. The metal will wear through in 25 years of heavy driving.

ohiovet

Take a small piece of a coffee can 2" by 2" and clamp it on the hose. The metal will wear through in 25 years of heavy driving.

ILBMF

I'll pass on that

AZDoug

The proper bubba method is to use part of a Schlitz beer can (or Coors if you are out west),and make sure you can read Schiltz on the piece of metal you cut out and position on the hose.

You're welcome.

Doug

TCracingCA

Is your radiator installed properly with the correct donuts or mounting so the installed correctly and not backwards hoses are in the right height plane?

Ya alternator position and the correct belt are important to verify also!

ohiovet

Doug,
That will work well but typically last only 12 to 14 years as compared to 25 years for a steel can....
Bruce B

MikeM

Yes, I'd use a can but definitely a steel can!

wmf62

GM used to have a stainless steel wear strip w/integrated clamp to go on the lower hose (my 65 had one...), but I have no idea if they are still available.

Bill

ohiovet

Bill,
Sounds like that would be considered a "GM BUBBA".....
Bruce B

wmf62

Bruce

possibly/probably, but it worked...



Bill