I am collecting the parts for my 383 stroker engine for my 57 and need advise for the Harmonic balancer.
I am running the original generator and have ordered the deep groove pulleys for the gen, water pump and crank so I need to know what balancer to buy so the thickness is correct for all pulleys to line up.

 

It's been my experience that all harmonic balancers have the same overall height. If one has a thicker ring, that extra thickness is added on the side toward the engine so as to NOT affect pulley alignment.

Bottom line: Pick your favorite balancer. You'll be fine.

 

OK, thanks.

 

3 questions:

1. Are you running a stock stamped steel timing cover, if so, no issues with balancer selection.

2. Is your 383 internally or externally balanced? If internally, then use a a balancer of your choosing. If external, then it must use a 400 type offset balance balancer.

3. If your existing engine is "stock", and uses the original front motor mount that is captured by the water pump, and you plan on keeping that type mount, then the new balancer should be spaced forward (to compensate for the thickness of that mount - about .140") like your current engine should have. These spacers are available from the typical C1 suppliers.

Plasticman

 

This is exactly correcty.
Additionally, the hub of ALLLLLLLLLLLLLLL small block balancers (the face where the crank pulley bolts on) is the same dimension from the front of the block, regardless of whether it is a 283, 327, 350, SB400 balancer. Thus, ANY pulley from ANY engine will bolt up to the front of ANY balancer with the same spacing.
The only thing is that you have to match the pulleys for the same application, that is, crank, generator/alternator, water pump, etc, for the same application.

 

Match your timing cover tab to the diameter of the balancer and index of of the timing mark to the new balancer.

 

I should of added that if you are running an aluminum timing cover, some balancers may be too thick (extend too far to the rear) to clear the aluminum cover. The use of that C1 .140" thick spacer will space the balancer far enough forward to clear the cover. Again, assuming you are using that spacer now, and you are reusing all your existing pulleys.

Ecklers has it as p/5 25-123933-1 for $7.95 on this page:
http://www.ecklerscorvette.com/catal...pacer&x=16&y=9

Zip has it for $8.50:
http://www.zip-corvette.com/55-62-ha...er-spacer.html

Plasticman

 

Again, that is exactly correct.
Engines with an 8in balancer have the timing tab spaced about 1in further away from the outer ring of the balancer. You CANNOT use a timing cover/tab for a 6in balancer with an 8in balancer, but you could use a cover/tab for an 8in balancer with a 6in balancer, except there would be a big gap between the tab and the timing mark on the balance.
Up through 68 on pass car balancers (6in or 8in), the timing mark is in line with the keyway. In 69 (except on Vette balancers), the timing mark was moved about 10deg toward the advance of the keyway. Thus, it is imperative to use a matching balancer and timing cover/tab. I believe 71 is when the Vette timing mark and timing tab changed.
Also, on a Vette, the first year for an 8in balancer was 1962 on the solid lifter 327 engines. After that, all hi-perf 327s got an 8in balancer (with the widest outer ring of ANY small block). When the 350 was introduced in 69, ALLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLL 350 engines got an 8in balancer (there was never a 6in balancer on a 350), but the outer ring was NOT AS WIDE as the wide outer ring on hi-perf 327 engines. Also, the SB400 had an 8in balancer with an outer ring that was between the width of a hi-perf 327 and the 350 outer rings.

SOMEONE correct me if needed, but only the 62-65 (or 66) 8in hi-perf 327 balancers had fins. The 66-later (or 67-later) 8in hi-perf 327 balancers no longer had fins and the service replacement hi-perf 327 balancers did not have fins. Thus, finned 327 balancers bring a premium price.

 

If you engine is externally blanced it should come with a balancer and flywheel. If not it's only close. If you're picking up a used balancer, the ones made after 1985 had the timing mark in a different spot. It's almost straight up and down behind the water pump. You'll know then by the outer ring sticking back further than the rest of the balancer. The earlier ones are flush at the rear. It's very hard to set the timing with the ones behind the water pump. I can't say about corvettes as I don't know for sure but most regular 350s came with a 6 3/4 balancer. Trucks and performance motors had the larger dampers.

 

A late good friend had an 8" finned balancer on his 327/350 HP '68 Corvette. I think the 350 cu in block saw the demise of the fins.

 

I had to add this spacer between the harmonic balancer and crank (gear) before installing it on my 383 when I put it in my 1962. It was necessary to add the spacer in order for the water pump pulley to line up with the crank pulley, because the water pump is spaced away from the front of the engine block by the front engine mount on the C1's. This spacer is the same thickness as the front engine mount, about .150".






Here's the link:

http://www.parts123.com/corvettecent...50e&ukey=43421



.

 

Regardless of engine, ALLLLLLLLLLLLLLLL 55-62 Corvettes require this spacer between the crank timing gear and the harmonic balancer-----------------------IF the stock crossover mount is used between the water pump and block.

 

There are three different diameters for the small block 6- 1/4", 6 - 3/4", and an 8"

 

I am starting with a bare block that is currently at the machine shop. It will be balanced and blueprinted. The intention is to create an engine that looks like an original 270 h.p. engine. I want a balancer that will appear the same as the original 57 hi lift cam engines. I have ordered the deep groove pulleys as these engines had as well. I already have the balancer/crank spacer. I need to know what balancer and timing cover spacer to buy to go with this stock look.

 

Anything that looks like an original 283 balancer is NOT what you want on your motor.

Read the other thread about 327 RPM, and the balancer link i posted. if its hodge podge motor, and most strokers are, you may be better off with a fluid damper balancer.

Doug

 

Do they even make a small diameter balancer that will work on a 383? I used a GM Performance Parts balancer on mine. Works fine, but is larger than the stock balancer.

 

Yep. I thought I would mention it before this discussion went any further because a lot of people don't know it.

 

Gee Randy, I realize you are trying to help, but I mentioned it in post #4......... (item #3).

And again to the OP, is your 383 going to be internally balanced (like a typical 283/327/350, or externally balanced like a typical 400/383?

Balancer selection WILL make a difference! An internally balanced 383 can use any 283/327/350 balancer (although it certainly would be in your best interest to use a larger 8"), but an externally balanced 383 will have to use the "special" offset balance version (like on a 400 SB).

Internal balanced 383 are possible, but at increased cost.

Excuse me if you have already answered that question, but I have not seen it and want to make sure you understand the difference.

plasticman

 

Yes, I mentioned it in post 14 Internally balanced.

I am starting with a bare block that is currently at the machine shop. It will be balanced and blueprinted. The intention is to create an engine that looks like an original 270 h.p. engine. I want a balancer that will appear the same as the original 57 hi lift cam engines. I have ordered the deep groove pulleys as these engines had as well. I already have the balancer/crank spacer. I need to know what balancer and timing cover spacer to buy to go with this stock look.

 

Does anyone know if There is fluid balancer that is smaller like the factory 57 balancer that will work for my project?