wmf62

I know that wasn't the question, but it was my answer to solving the 'problem'



Bill

Nowhere Man

What problem? Something has proven to work for the last 60 years is now a problem becouse someone can't use a socket and ratchet to change a filter. Hope you all don't change oil on most new cars becouse they are going back to the cainster

MikeM

If you had a problem with this you had a bad sealing washer. Not to say you might lose a couple drops. That's the only reason I can see you need the spring in the assembly.

65GGvert

I figured the spring kept the filter pressed up against the top so oil didn't try to bypass the inlet to the filter. As soon as I start to loosen the bolt oil starts running out, so I don't prefill after I get it cleaned up and ready to go back in. All of mine must have had bad seals.

Powershift

My rebuilt original may leak 1-2 drops of oil after filling and before I install on the car. This seal is a copper washer on the bottom of the can and tension is held on this washer/seal by the spring inside the can. They can be rebuilt. LICS (and others) have the kits.

I would also check for missing or incorrect internals in the can. Someone might have done a bad job taking it apart and putting back together earlier in its life. Frankie can testify to this, and has posted pics in the past.

Larry

Frankie the Fink

Yeah - I took my '61 canister apart and found it was slapped together with an old Bubba Spring and a Dorman block freeze plug It worked OK but pre-filling was out unless you wanted an oil shower.

I switched to the spin-on adapter but at next oil change will reinstall the canister that I've completely restored (with new internals) and am anxious to see if pre-filling works without drips now.

That spring doesn't seem to have that much pressure to hold viscous oil from coming out around the brass washer but we'll see....

My '63 will knock for 3-5 seconds until oil pressure is up on an oil change -- whether I pre-fill or not. I hate that but it certainly hasn't hurt anything in my 3 years of ownership...

wmf62

I use a 2qt spin-on

Bill

MikeM

I don't know anything about a patch job on an original canister nor do I know anything about the rebuild kits. I do know that if your can assembly is in good OEM condition, it hasn't been a problem pre-filling the can most of the way before installing to the engine.

I used to do this every day in the early '60's when I was a gas pump/grease rack jockey. Still do it on two of my old cars.

Maybe some of you have filter leaks around the big bolt that holds the can on? That shouldn't happen either.

Frankie the Fink

Pretty certain pre-filling is just a 'feel good' thing. If JohnZ were posting here he'd show the picture of his Ferrari with the two spin on oil filters, both with the opening facing down. My Honda turbo jet ski was the same, oil filter opening facing down.

No pre-filling those high performance motor oil filters...

The canisters were never meant to be rebuilt....you have to chisel the nubs off the center bolt to remove the old part that holds the spring and, instead, install a thin washer with metal fingers to grip the bolt and perform the same function.

It prob works as well as the original stuff but seems a bit Elmer Fudd to me....but it is what it is...

Gary's '66

For me, pre-filling the canister absolutely IS a "good feel" thing. I don't like that "15 to 20 second clatter", while puckering my a-hole, while waiting for the oil to fill the canister, while waiting for the oil to circulate up to the top end!

When I fill the canister, I have zero "clatter" whatsoever and, it's a "good feel" thing.

As for making a mess with a filled canister. I get more oil on me on removal, than I do on replacement.

Gary

Powershift

The good restoration guys use a lathe and machine off the ears and machine a small groove around the bolt at the correct/proper height, and then secure everything with an "e-clip"

No Elmer Fudd about it. Looks very nice and works very well. Also easy to disassemble if needed.

Larry

Kerrmudgeon

I owned and changed out that filter many many times always sure to retrieve the old O-ring before I installed the new one .....until I did it the last time and on start up it puked oil all over the driveway.
Apparently a L O N G time ago someone left an old one up in there which had turned hard as a rock (seemed like metal to my feeler pic) and it finally broke up when this last new one was tightened, or me scratching it over the years. Sure surprised me, so make absolutely SURE you remove all traces and use a light to check for shiny metal.

Powershift

If the car is new to you, when doing the first oil filter change remove the two bolts holding the differential psi valve assembly and remove it. Then clean the entire cavity and remove any old o-rings. Then re-install the differential psi valve and new o-ring.

In this way you KNOW EXACTLY WHAT YOU HAVE in your car.

Larry