'64 got towed home last night
03-27-2017, 10:58 AM
#21
Race Director
Many reproduction or service replacement clutch fans are not initially set for max cooling at 180 F (or so) but for higher temps. Some of these can be reset and others cannot. There is a new reproduction fan clutch from K&B that states it is designed for max cooling at the lower engine temp. It is a very nice piece.
Factory air cars often have cooling issues........even if not running the air.....due to the added resistance of the condenser in front of the radiator. Beginning around 1966 the factory added a radiator shroud lower extension and radiator top and bottom seals to aid in engine cooling. A few folks have adapted these features to the earlier C2 cars. You might consider this. There is info on this work in the archives, as I was involved with helping/assisting. Let me know if you want additional details.
I would also check your timing and vacuum advance settings and ignition map performance, since this can also affect engine idle and excessive heating. You never know what you have on a 50 year old car until you thoroughly check it out.
I assume your radiator is an original or a DeWitts reproduction aluminum radiator. If not, that in itself is a problem. And 50 year old originals also do not often work as new. Consider a new DeWitts if you have any doubts of how good your radiator really is.
FWIW.
Larry
Factory air cars often have cooling issues........even if not running the air.....due to the added resistance of the condenser in front of the radiator. Beginning around 1966 the factory added a radiator shroud lower extension and radiator top and bottom seals to aid in engine cooling. A few folks have adapted these features to the earlier C2 cars. You might consider this. There is info on this work in the archives, as I was involved with helping/assisting. Let me know if you want additional details.
I would also check your timing and vacuum advance settings and ignition map performance, since this can also affect engine idle and excessive heating. You never know what you have on a 50 year old car until you thoroughly check it out.
I assume your radiator is an original or a DeWitts reproduction aluminum radiator. If not, that in itself is a problem. And 50 year old originals also do not often work as new. Consider a new DeWitts if you have any doubts of how good your radiator really is.
FWIW.
Larry
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dlaw7822 (03-27-2017)
03-27-2017, 10:58 AM
#22
Team Owner
If the car got hot enough for the engine to die or coil to crap out your gauge is prob telling the truth. You don't mention the car puking coolant. Are you sure you have enough coolant and no air in the system along with the other things I mentioned earlier? A $13 I/R temp gun will confirm the dash gauge accuracy. I love how the pertronix is indicted as a problem before the symptoms are diagnosed and the obvious things checked.
To continue. Is your vacuum advance
connected to full manifold vacuum and working properly?
To continue. Is your vacuum advance
connected to full manifold vacuum and working properly?
Last edited by Frankie the Fink; 03-27-2017 at 11:00 AM.
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dlaw7822 (03-27-2017)
03-27-2017, 11:11 AM
#23
Safety Car
I had two (2) Pertronix coils fail in my '65 because of heat. Put original stock coil back in and never had another problem.
Was not a engine heat problem never got over 200 but wouldn't start until coil cooled down.
George
Was not a engine heat problem never got over 200 but wouldn't start until coil cooled down.
George
Last edited by Black_Magic; 03-27-2017 at 11:27 AM.
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dlaw7822 (03-27-2017)
03-27-2017, 01:06 PM
#25
Team Owner
Many reproduction or service replacement clutch fans are not initially set for max cooling at 180 F (or so) but for higher temps. Some of these can be reset and others cannot. There is a new reproduction fan clutch from K&B that states it is designed for max cooling at the lower engine temp. It is a very nice piece.
Factory air cars often have cooling issues........even if not running the air.....due to the added resistance of the condenser in front of the radiator. Beginning around 1966 the factory added a radiator shroud lower extension and radiator top and bottom seals to aid in engine cooling. A few folks have adapted these features to the earlier C2 cars. You might consider this. There is info on this work in the archives, as I was involved with helping/assisting. Let me know if you want additional details.
I would also check your timing and vacuum advance settings and ignition map performance, since this can also affect engine idle and excessive heating. You never know what you have on a 50 year old car until you thoroughly check it out.
I assume your radiator is an original or a DeWitts reproduction aluminum radiator. If not, that in itself is a problem. And 50 year old originals also do not often work as new. Consider a new DeWitts if you have any doubts of how good your radiator really is.
FWIW.
Larry
Factory air cars often have cooling issues........even if not running the air.....due to the added resistance of the condenser in front of the radiator. Beginning around 1966 the factory added a radiator shroud lower extension and radiator top and bottom seals to aid in engine cooling. A few folks have adapted these features to the earlier C2 cars. You might consider this. There is info on this work in the archives, as I was involved with helping/assisting. Let me know if you want additional details.
I would also check your timing and vacuum advance settings and ignition map performance, since this can also affect engine idle and excessive heating. You never know what you have on a 50 year old car until you thoroughly check it out.
I assume your radiator is an original or a DeWitts reproduction aluminum radiator. If not, that in itself is a problem. And 50 year old originals also do not often work as new. Consider a new DeWitts if you have any doubts of how good your radiator really is.
FWIW.
Larry
For a '63 (which never had the seal) you have to do some minor trimming but it results in similar benefits...
03-27-2017, 01:53 PM
#26
Instructor
Thread Starter
Many reproduction or service replacement clutch fans are not initially set for max cooling at 180 F (or so) but for higher temps. Some of these can be reset and others cannot. There is a new reproduction fan clutch from K&B that states it is designed for max cooling at the lower engine temp. It is a very nice piece.
Factory air cars often have cooling issues........even if not running the air.....due to the added resistance of the condenser in front of the radiator. Beginning around 1966 the factory added a radiator shroud lower extension and radiator top and bottom seals to aid in engine cooling. A few folks have adapted these features to the earlier C2 cars. You might consider this. There is info on this work in the archives, as I was involved with helping/assisting. Let me know if you want additional details.
I would also check your timing and vacuum advance settings and ignition map performance, since this can also affect engine idle and excessive heating. You never know what you have on a 50 year old car until you thoroughly check it out.
I assume your radiator is an original or a DeWitts reproduction aluminum radiator. If not, that in itself is a problem. And 50 year old originals also do not often work as new. Consider a new DeWitts if you have any doubts of how good your radiator really is.
FWIW.
Larry
Factory air cars often have cooling issues........even if not running the air.....due to the added resistance of the condenser in front of the radiator. Beginning around 1966 the factory added a radiator shroud lower extension and radiator top and bottom seals to aid in engine cooling. A few folks have adapted these features to the earlier C2 cars. You might consider this. There is info on this work in the archives, as I was involved with helping/assisting. Let me know if you want additional details.
I would also check your timing and vacuum advance settings and ignition map performance, since this can also affect engine idle and excessive heating. You never know what you have on a 50 year old car until you thoroughly check it out.
I assume your radiator is an original or a DeWitts reproduction aluminum radiator. If not, that in itself is a problem. And 50 year old originals also do not often work as new. Consider a new DeWitts if you have any doubts of how good your radiator really is.
FWIW.
Larry
03-27-2017, 01:57 PM
#27
Instructor
Thread Starter
If the car got hot enough for the engine to die or coil to crap out your gauge is prob telling the truth. You don't mention the car puking coolant. Are you sure you have enough coolant and no air in the system along with the other things I mentioned earlier? A $13 I/R temp gun will confirm the dash gauge accuracy. I love how the pertronix is indicted as a problem before the symptoms are diagnosed and the obvious things checked.
To continue. Is your vacuum advance
connected to full manifold vacuum and working properly?
To continue. Is your vacuum advance
connected to full manifold vacuum and working properly?
03-27-2017, 02:37 PM
#29
Team Owner
Member Since: Feb 2003
Location: Sitting in his Nowhere land Hanover Pa
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So did you get your car running again?
03-27-2017, 02:53 PM
#30
Race Director
Also consider/add the lower radiator shroud extension. For your year car they are rubber fabric but should work fine. I believe DR REBUILD still sells them.
Larry
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dlaw7822 (03-28-2017)
03-27-2017, 03:10 PM
#31
Le Mans Master
After reading your notes in this post I see you have a 160 thermostat and idling in the heat for 2 hours you were seeing temps of 180-190 degrees?
If that is the case you did not get hot. If you reached 220 that would indeed be hot.
At 180-190 most would consider very your car to be working very well and normal in that situation, idling for 2 hours in a parade.
If that is the case you did not get hot. If you reached 220 that would indeed be hot.
At 180-190 most would consider very your car to be working very well and normal in that situation, idling for 2 hours in a parade.
03-27-2017, 09:58 PM
#33
Race Director
Member Since: Mar 2001
Location: Mustang OK
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2023 C1 of the Year Finalist - Modified
2015 C1 of the Year Finalist
Don't you just hate it when you have to call AAA.
When we got it home, I discovered that all I needed was a 7/16 open end wrench to tighten a nut on a vacuum line on the FI unit-----------------------------and we were on our way to a free BBQ!!!
When we got it home, I discovered that all I needed was a 7/16 open end wrench to tighten a nut on a vacuum line on the FI unit-----------------------------and we were on our way to a free BBQ!!!
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dlaw7822 (03-28-2017)
03-28-2017, 08:16 AM
#34
Instructor
Thread Starter
Thanks for not making me feel like the Lone Ranger. If you want to enjoy these old great cars, it's nice to know how to fix them and carry spares and basic tools. Makes life interesting, though. Wouldn't have any other way. Cheers, D.
03-28-2017, 08:27 AM
#35
Instructor
Thread Starter
After reading your notes in this post I see you have a 160 thermostat and idling in the heat for 2 hours you were seeing temps of 180-190 degrees?
If that is the case you did not get hot. If you reached 220 that would indeed be hot.
At 180-190 most would consider very your car to be working very well and normal in that situation, idling for 2 hours in a parade.
If that is the case you did not get hot. If you reached 220 that would indeed be hot.
At 180-190 most would consider very your car to be working very well and normal in that situation, idling for 2 hours in a parade.
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Westlotorn (03-28-2017)
03-28-2017, 09:25 AM
#36
Melting Slicks
Member Since: Jul 2005
Location: Cuyahoga Falls OH
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2016 C2 of the Year Finalist
I was flatbedded home and the car started as soon as it was unloaded. Found the reproduction pump had an internal failure of a valve that came loose inside. Second pump, the replacement, had the actuator pin work out of position that made it fail. AAA is my friend!
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dlaw7822 (03-28-2017)
03-28-2017, 10:18 AM
#37
Instructor
Thread Starter
Although I posted replies here #7 and #17 about Pertronix and coils, I thought I'd mention that I had a fuel pumps fail twice while on the road that acted exactly this way. It was not related to heat but are we sure your problem was?
I was flatbedded home and the car started as soon as it was unloaded. Found the reproduction pump had an internal failure of a valve that came loose inside. Second pump, the replacement, had the actuator pin work out of position that made it fail. AAA is my friend!
I was flatbedded home and the car started as soon as it was unloaded. Found the reproduction pump had an internal failure of a valve that came loose inside. Second pump, the replacement, had the actuator pin work out of position that made it fail. AAA is my friend!
03-28-2017, 10:25 AM
#38
Le Mans Master
Member Since: Feb 2004
Location: Norcal CA
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1. Engine problems. Found out that the studs were pulling from the head. It was when I first built the engine.
2. Went to a shop where I wanted a tune up and left with an electrical fire. The mechanic at the shop grounded out the engine harness to the ignition shielding.
3. Last one was about 6 months ago. I kept blowing a fuse in the main harness when one of my head harness connectors came off and was grounded out. Found the problem the next day. It was late at night and could not drive without lights.
AAA is the best.
03-28-2017, 10:34 AM
#39
Instructor
Thread Starter
I had to have mine do the ride of shame three times.
1. Engine problems. Found out that the studs were pulling from the head. It was when I first built the engine.
2. Went to a shop where I wanted a tune up and left with an electrical fire. The mechanic at the shop grounded out the engine harness to the ignition shielding.
3. Last one was about 6 months ago. I kept blowing a fuse in the main harness when one of my head harness connectors came off and was grounded out. Found the problem the next day. It was late at night and could not drive without lights.
AAA is the best.
1. Engine problems. Found out that the studs were pulling from the head. It was when I first built the engine.
2. Went to a shop where I wanted a tune up and left with an electrical fire. The mechanic at the shop grounded out the engine harness to the ignition shielding.
3. Last one was about 6 months ago. I kept blowing a fuse in the main harness when one of my head harness connectors came off and was grounded out. Found the problem the next day. It was late at night and could not drive without lights.
AAA is the best.
03-28-2017, 10:39 AM
#40
Team Owner
Although I posted replies here #7 and #17 about Pertronix and coils, I thought I'd mention that I had a fuel pumps fail twice while on the road that acted exactly this way. It was not related to heat but are we sure your problem was?
I was flatbedded home and the car started as soon as it was unloaded. Found the reproduction pump had an internal failure of a valve that came loose inside. Second pump, the replacement, had the actuator pin work out of position that made it fail. AAA is my friend!
I was flatbedded home and the car started as soon as it was unloaded. Found the reproduction pump had an internal failure of a valve that came loose inside. Second pump, the replacement, had the actuator pin work out of position that made it fail. AAA is my friend!