time for a new engine
04-08-2017, 01:22 AM
#42
Drifting
i guess you guys are right dont need that much HP As i wouild probably
start to break things? i dont race my car but do like to take it out on
the freeway and open her up a little bit. would probably maybe run her
at the drags once or twice a year?
i guess i should have stated in my post that my present motor is a
1970 4 bolt main 350 small block bored 30 over and i am running a
roller rocker comp cam with AFR aluminum heads and a msd ignition
750 Holley double pumper w/ mechanical secondaries.
had it dyno tested a few years ago and it made almost 350 HP to the
rear wheels. it dyno at betweeen 425-450 total HP.
i guess i should be happy with my present motor as it runs really
good and pulls really hard all the way to 7500 rpm.
i guess i just am tires of the oil leaks i have had over the last few
years. i keep chasing the oil leaks and cannot seem to find them and
get those damn leaks fixed?
after reading another post on this forum on a 383 stroker motor maybe
my oil leak is coming from the front timing chain cover??
i have replaced the oil pan gasket 3 times and it still oil leaks right
under the middle of to the right of the oil drain plug.
the leak is not coming from my valve covers or my oil pressure
line or my fuel pump. i notice the bottom of my starter has oil on it?
could it be my timing chain cover? this is my last hope. i will try to
take the timing cover off and put a new seal or gasket on it.
hope this does the trick. as i am getting to old and tires of chasing this
damn oil leak i have had for the last several years. too frustrating.
thats why i was think of putting in a new small block chevy LSX motor?
but for the 11k they want i think i can fix a lot of oil leaks on my
old motor?? it still runs like a brand new motor and is very dependable. i should be happy and i am if i can only fix this damn
oil leak. i would be happy to pay someone to fix this oil leak if they
could guarantee me to fix the leak?? i guess i am just too tired of
chasing this frustrating oil leak> thanks guys sorry for the rambling.
start to break things? i dont race my car but do like to take it out on
the freeway and open her up a little bit. would probably maybe run her
at the drags once or twice a year?
i guess i should have stated in my post that my present motor is a
1970 4 bolt main 350 small block bored 30 over and i am running a
roller rocker comp cam with AFR aluminum heads and a msd ignition
750 Holley double pumper w/ mechanical secondaries.
had it dyno tested a few years ago and it made almost 350 HP to the
rear wheels. it dyno at betweeen 425-450 total HP.
i guess i should be happy with my present motor as it runs really
good and pulls really hard all the way to 7500 rpm.
i guess i just am tires of the oil leaks i have had over the last few
years. i keep chasing the oil leaks and cannot seem to find them and
get those damn leaks fixed?
after reading another post on this forum on a 383 stroker motor maybe
my oil leak is coming from the front timing chain cover??
i have replaced the oil pan gasket 3 times and it still oil leaks right
under the middle of to the right of the oil drain plug.
the leak is not coming from my valve covers or my oil pressure
line or my fuel pump. i notice the bottom of my starter has oil on it?
could it be my timing chain cover? this is my last hope. i will try to
take the timing cover off and put a new seal or gasket on it.
hope this does the trick. as i am getting to old and tires of chasing this
damn oil leak i have had for the last several years. too frustrating.
thats why i was think of putting in a new small block chevy LSX motor?
but for the 11k they want i think i can fix a lot of oil leaks on my
old motor?? it still runs like a brand new motor and is very dependable. i should be happy and i am if i can only fix this damn
oil leak. i would be happy to pay someone to fix this oil leak if they
could guarantee me to fix the leak?? i guess i am just too tired of
chasing this frustrating oil leak> thanks guys sorry for the rambling.
I would much rather fix an oil leak on a Gen 1 SB compared to installing an LS motor. As another poster noted, the problem with an LS swap is in the peripherals, not the motor itself. There are a lot of details that need to be addressed.
While Gen 1 SB oil leaks are annoying, they are well understood and can only come from about eight places (intake end seals, valve cover gaskets, oil pressure fitting, timing chain cover gasket, front crank seal, crank/damper joint, rear crank seal, and rear cam plug.
With the exception of the rear cam plug (which I have seen leak), all of these seals can be easily replaced with the engine/trans in the car. Getting to the rear cam plug requires removing the transmission.
I note that your description of the problem closely matches Ducati Don's recent thread on the same topic. Don's problem remains unresolved, but you may want to follow his progress to see if he figures out the source of the leak.
I like the suggestion of using the UV dye to help locate the leak. You could also consider simply replacing all of the above-mentioned seals (with the possible exception of the rear cam plug) with the engine still in the car. Consider using the Fel Pro "blue" one-piece pan gasket and the Fel Pro "blue" rocker cover gaskets.
Also, as another poster noted, make sure your PCV system is operating properly. The 350 block you have lacks the rear crankcase vent that the unvented C2 valve covers require.
In terms of your quest for power, I think you are close to optimal with a well-built 350. A 383 or 400 Gen 1 SBC is about all that a stock C2 chassis can handle.
04-08-2017, 12:56 PM
#44
It would depend on how many miles per year and the distances one drives. If it was several days a week resulting in 5k plus miles a year, definitely an LS. For occasional usage an original block with power added specs would be fine. Individual taste. A solid lifter 2 x 4 set up would look oh so tempting coupled with a low restriction exhaust.
04-08-2017, 02:54 PM
#47
Drifting
Here's my expanded list of "all" potential oil leaks on a Gen 1 small block. If I missed any, let me know:
Intake end seals
Valve cover gaskets
Oil pressure fitting
Distributor gasket
Timing chain cover gasket
Front crank seal
Seepage between crank snout and damper at keyway
Fuel pump mount (two gaskets)
Fuel pump pushrod locking access (plugged with a short bolt)
Oil pan gasket
Rear main seal
Rear cam plug
Rear oil gallery plugs (3)
Does this look like a complete list? It seems like a large number of potential leaks, but many of these seldom leak, and many are fairly well localized, so that identifying the source is easier.
BTW, I replaced the rear main seal and the oil pan gasket on my 327 in an effort to stop a small drip at the back of the pan. This did not fully fix the problem. Recently I did an engine swap, and with the engine out of the car I could see clearly that the culprit was the rear cam plug.
I have read that the rear cam plug is an unusual size that is just slightly larger than one of the standard sizes. Sometimes people will replace the plug with the standard size that is just a bit too small.
04-20-2017, 09:46 PM
#48
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My advice (worth every penny that you paid for it) is to "know thyself." Knowing what you want is half the battle. Knowing what you can "afford" ( resources: cost, effort, knowledge, skills, and abilities) IS the battle.
Don't make the medicine worse than the disease. If leaks are the issue: most can be solved (although some are tedious, yes), but is spending 10K+ better than living with (or fixing) a few leaks? My new cars over the last 20 years are totally sanitary, i.e., don't leak a drop, but have a tiny fraction of the soul of my old TR4, or most any 1950-60s car.
I love the LS engines (one sitting in my garage now), but I would offer/argue that it is a mismatch for a C2. Powerful but soulless. A ZZ6 or a 383 is closer to a C2 vibe, but not a L76.
To me, it would be the reverse of putting a bean-counter Honda 4 cylinder in a C2 - great engine for what it is intended, but a mismatch for a C2. To me (YMMV) a 600hp LS engine in a C2 is also a mismatch in the reverse direction.
Do what you want, but unless you upgrade lots of other stuff, you could end up with the worst of all worlds: more power that you can use, lots of resources expended for little return, a car that is a hodgepodge, and as a result, is unbalanced, and not fun to drive (and even harder to sell or flip).
Don't make the medicine worse than the disease. If leaks are the issue: most can be solved (although some are tedious, yes), but is spending 10K+ better than living with (or fixing) a few leaks? My new cars over the last 20 years are totally sanitary, i.e., don't leak a drop, but have a tiny fraction of the soul of my old TR4, or most any 1950-60s car.
I love the LS engines (one sitting in my garage now), but I would offer/argue that it is a mismatch for a C2. Powerful but soulless. A ZZ6 or a 383 is closer to a C2 vibe, but not a L76.
To me, it would be the reverse of putting a bean-counter Honda 4 cylinder in a C2 - great engine for what it is intended, but a mismatch for a C2. To me (YMMV) a 600hp LS engine in a C2 is also a mismatch in the reverse direction.
Do what you want, but unless you upgrade lots of other stuff, you could end up with the worst of all worlds: more power that you can use, lots of resources expended for little return, a car that is a hodgepodge, and as a result, is unbalanced, and not fun to drive (and even harder to sell or flip).
04-20-2017, 09:51 PM
#49
Le Mans Master
04-20-2017, 09:54 PM
#50
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04-20-2017, 09:57 PM
#51
Le Mans Master
Despite my inabilities with basic arithmetic, I still desperately want to build the afore mentioned 327(ish) cu. in. LS motor and put it in something American, and relatively light weight with a close ratio 4 spd behind it and a 3.70 rear......
Last edited by FLYNAVY30; 04-20-2017 at 09:58 PM.
04-20-2017, 10:01 PM
#52
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Did you not read what I wrote. GM had built millions of them. And ate a popular swap in other cars. The 5.3 motors used in SUVS and trucks. It's close to its 5.7 counter part LS motors but only a 5.3 CI or a 327. Plenty of aftermarket parts
04-20-2017, 10:16 PM
#53
Burning Brakes
motor
was wondering what new style engine everyone would consider
replacing the old 327 with? LSX LS3 LS7 LS2.
what would be the best bang for the buck without having to spend
20K for a new motor? i will keep my old 327 in case i ever sell my
car i have the original motor to go with it.
i would like to put a new chevy small block but would like to get
something with around 500-600 horsepower but not too expensive?
what do u guys think? what new style chevy motor would u pick?
thanks
replacing the old 327 with? LSX LS3 LS7 LS2.
what would be the best bang for the buck without having to spend
20K for a new motor? i will keep my old 327 in case i ever sell my
car i have the original motor to go with it.
i would like to put a new chevy small block but would like to get
something with around 500-600 horsepower but not too expensive?
what do u guys think? what new style chevy motor would u pick?
thanks
04-21-2017, 06:41 AM
#54
Le Mans Master
Obviously not the engine choice for everyone, but if you're going to put an LS motor into a C2, I think it would be a cool way to do it as it keeps some of the nostalgia of the original 327 while being a little more creative and different than just dropping an LS3 crate motor into the car.
04-21-2017, 06:47 AM
#55
Drifting
383 or 406 (450-500hp)...Tremec TKO600, 3:73 rear gears...cant beat it...
Wouldn't take all your money...a turn key motor would be about $7K or so, trans (with all the parts to do the swap) is about $5k, rear about $1-2K...and then you put it together...
Go search for "Gonzo_65_L76"...he did all of this last year...I think he went with a Skip White 406 (540+hp)...5 speed, etc...there is a video of him driving the car...it came out nice...this will give you a better perspective...
Ive done a couple cars like this and they are fun and reliable or as reliable as this era of engineering can be...
Cheers,
Frank
Wouldn't take all your money...a turn key motor would be about $7K or so, trans (with all the parts to do the swap) is about $5k, rear about $1-2K...and then you put it together...
Go search for "Gonzo_65_L76"...he did all of this last year...I think he went with a Skip White 406 (540+hp)...5 speed, etc...there is a video of him driving the car...it came out nice...this will give you a better perspective...
Ive done a couple cars like this and they are fun and reliable or as reliable as this era of engineering can be...
Cheers,
Frank
04-21-2017, 07:37 AM
#56
Le Mans Master
I'm In the BB school... Dropped in a GMPP ZZ502 Deluxe. Mated with Keisler 5 speed. Centerforce II clutch. Stock 3:36 rear gears. HD Side yokes with Cap Bolts. HD U joints.
225x70RX15 tires, They act as my safety valve. Lets the excess TQ thru to spin the wheels if you get nuts.
Moded the rad to DeWitts dual Fan. Added MSD EFI .
Rev Limited to 5200. All Hp And TQ in before you hit the rev limiter.
It's all about TQ. Not into twisting a Motor to 10 Bizillion RPM to make the HP & TQ.
No Problems....
225x70RX15 tires, They act as my safety valve. Lets the excess TQ thru to spin the wheels if you get nuts.
Moded the rad to DeWitts dual Fan. Added MSD EFI .
Rev Limited to 5200. All Hp And TQ in before you hit the rev limiter.
It's all about TQ. Not into twisting a Motor to 10 Bizillion RPM to make the HP & TQ.
No Problems....
04-21-2017, 08:01 AM
#57
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04-21-2017, 11:28 AM
#58
Drifting
I'm In the BB school... Dropped in a GMPP ZZ502 Deluxe. Mated with Keisler 5 speed. Centerforce II clutch. Stock 3:36 rear gears. HD Side yokes with Cap Bolts. HD U joints.
225x70RX15 tires, They act as my safety valve. Lets the excess TQ thru to spin the wheels if you get nuts.
Moded the rad to DeWitts dual Fan. Added MSD EFI .
Rev Limited to 5200. All Hp And TQ in before you hit the rev limiter.
It's all about TQ. Not into twisting a Motor to 10 Bizillion RPM to make the HP & TQ.
No Problems....
225x70RX15 tires, They act as my safety valve. Lets the excess TQ thru to spin the wheels if you get nuts.
Moded the rad to DeWitts dual Fan. Added MSD EFI .
Rev Limited to 5200. All Hp And TQ in before you hit the rev limiter.
It's all about TQ. Not into twisting a Motor to 10 Bizillion RPM to make the HP & TQ.
No Problems....
04-21-2017, 11:45 AM
#59
Le Mans Master
I here yah Crunch...
Allot of my Club Buds have some great SB's. Some are 383 stroker's and are fast as all git out. The others are multi carb show cars that are also very fast.
Their's nothing wrong with a well built SB. You can do so much with them. When doing shows I look more at the SB cars then the BB cars as you see so many clever mods. My Best friend had a 383 stroker built form a 4 bolt main Chevy Truck motor.
He added a roller cam and Roller lifters and the best of every thing internally. And the topping on the ice cream was the addition of a Vortec Blower going thru a Holley Blow thru carb.
He's had the car along with his other toys and has come to the point where he now has it up for sale on Contes web page. It has new paint work... Blue with a White Vert top. This car has Finishing school manors below 3K.. but after that It's a Bad Boy...
Allot of my Club Buds have some great SB's. Some are 383 stroker's and are fast as all git out. The others are multi carb show cars that are also very fast.
Their's nothing wrong with a well built SB. You can do so much with them. When doing shows I look more at the SB cars then the BB cars as you see so many clever mods. My Best friend had a 383 stroker built form a 4 bolt main Chevy Truck motor.
He added a roller cam and Roller lifters and the best of every thing internally. And the topping on the ice cream was the addition of a Vortec Blower going thru a Holley Blow thru carb.
He's had the car along with his other toys and has come to the point where he now has it up for sale on Contes web page. It has new paint work... Blue with a White Vert top. This car has Finishing school manors below 3K.. but after that It's a Bad Boy...
Last edited by Viet Nam Vett; 04-21-2017 at 12:18 PM.
04-21-2017, 12:02 PM
#60
Safety Car
10-15 years ago I destroyed my original 67 BB 375hp Chevelle SS engine. I was beside myself! I ended up installing a ZZ454 crate engine and for the most part replicated the look of the engine I lost. I have only had one person ever know that the engine is not the original to the car. If someone asks I tell them the truth, but most do not. It is one of the best running old cars I own. There are a lot of positives for staying close to original, but the LS engines are great. I am starting to restore a Challenger that I have owned since 1974, my first car, and with this one I am looking hard for a Hell Cat engine from a wrecked car so originality is out the door! I am waiting on a call from a wrecking yard that has a rolled over Hell Cat, that I offered 17k for the whole car. I would get seats, dash, trans, engine, wiring, ect, I could build a hell of a car! This is the fun part of this great hobby! Good luck with whatever you choose to do!