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Any tips for adjusting the hood latches? The driver's side latch only catches once out of every five attempts or so. The hood has almost perfect gaps so I don't want to mess with that....is there any adjustment that can be made in the latch in the engine bay....or is there some magic mid-year technique I'm missing? Never really had this issue with either my 68 or 69.
You can adjust the male end of the catch located on the hood downward a bit. Loosen the locknuts on the threaded part of the male catch and turn it one turn or less counterclockwise to lengthen its reach. There's a slot in the tip to put a flat blade screwdriver if needed. Try it after each adjustment to check the close and hood height to fender alignment. When you're satisfied, tighten the locknuts and enjoy. Dave
You can adjust the male end of the catch located on the hood downward a bit. Loosen the locknuts on the threaded part of the catch and turn it one turn counterclockwise to lengthen its reach. There's a slot in the tip to put a flat blade screwdriver if needed. Try it after each adjustment to check the close and hood height to fender alignment. When you're satisfied, tighten the locknuts and enjoy. Dave
You can adjust the male end of the catch located on the hood downward a bit. Loosen the locknuts on the threaded part of the male catch and turn it one turn or less counterclockwise to lengthen its reach. There's a slot in the tip to put a flat blade screwdriver if needed. Try it after each adjustment to check the close and hood height to fender alignment. When you're satisfied, tighten the locknuts and enjoy. Dave
You can also adjust the bumper stops, located on the latches themselves, up or down slightly. Obviously, this adjustment will change the height of the rear edge of the hood, albeit very slightly.
You can adjust the male end of the catch located on the hood downward a bit. Loosen the locknuts on the threaded part of the male catch and turn it one turn or less counterclockwise to lengthen its reach. There's a slot in the tip to put a flat blade screwdriver if needed. Try it after each adjustment to check the close and hood height to fender alignment. When you're satisfied, tighten the locknuts and enjoy. Dave
Dave, I'm a little slow.... which part is the lock nut that needs to be loosened and whats the proper tool? I looked at it, and could take a guess, but I don't want to booger up the underside of the hood by whaling away on the wrong piece....Im assuming you use a flat head screwdriver and a hammer to knock that castle-nut looking do-dad counter clockwise to loosen it, and then unthread the pin a half turn to lengthen it?
Thanks!
You can also adjust the bumper stops, located on the latches themselves, up or down slightly. Obviously, this adjustment will change the height of the rear edge of the hood, albeit very slightly.
Thanks....the hood fits so well at the moment, Ill first try to extend the male side....it looks like thats the issue as its just barely not catching every time.
Dave, I'm a little slow.... which part is the lock nut that needs to be loosened and whats the proper tool? I looked at it, and could take a guess, but I don't want to booger up the underside of the hood by whaling away on the wrong piece....Im assuming you use a flat head screwdriver and a hammer to knock that castle-nut looking do-dad counter clockwise to loosen it, and then unthread the pin a half turn to lengthen it?
Thanks!
I'm sorry, I may have been thinking of another car I owned when I mentioned the locknut. The entire part you pictured is screwed into a captured nut and can be turned using the slot in the tip. My service manual also says an adjustment can be made at the corner receiving plate by loosening the three screws. I've not used that method though.
Yup!....I didn't have a flat screw drive big enough to completely fill the gap, and it kept popping out, so I used a spare 8 inch long piece of 3/16 steel...that allowed plenty of torque and with a little finesse, I was able to break it lose. 1/4 turn counter clockwise and the hood shuts perfectly every time.
Thanks very much for the help!!
Now that the garage is clean, on to steering box and brakes tomorrow!
Yup!....I didn't have a flat screw drive big enough to completely fill the gap, and it kept popping out, so I used a spare 8 inch long piece of 3/16 steel...that allowed plenty of torque and with a little finesse, I was able to break it lose. 1/4 turn counter clockwise and the hood shuts perfectly every time.
Thanks very much for the help!!
Now that the garage is clean, on to steering box and brakes tomorrow!
You have a beautiful car there! Glad to be of help!Dave
Finally had some spare time to swing by and talk cars with MarkC for a bit this morning. It was a cool comparison to get to drive over in my bone stock car, and then go for a ride in Mark's with the tasteful, but significant upgrades he's done. Besides being the most solid, noise free roadster I've ever been in, the combination of the 5 spd along with the carb/intake/exhaust/ignition modifications he's done has made for a car that doesn't have rock start dyno numbers but honestly pulls as hard as my stock C5 Z06 did. Huge fan of the car! He also insisted on wiping my car down with some of his Chadwick's Triple Play detail spray....the difference was night and day
Took this pic in his beautiful backyard before heading out to meet the wife for lunch. Thanks again for letting me swing by Mark....at some point Ill get this steering box pulled and shipped off.....
MarkC is a classy fellow and he has a super nice place. I rode in his '66 and when I got back to Tampa, I emailed SST about their TKO 600...
Hahaha...indeed he is. And yes, the list of products he inadvertently sold me on is impressive:
1. Chadwick's Triple Play
2. AED Carb
3. 5 spd conversion...although in all honesty, I've had my eye on the Legend LGT-700 long before I even owned the car
Greg, I really enjoyed the visit and was very impressed with your car. Thanks for the compliments about the car. We need to get Matt up here again for a couple of beers. Here are a couple of pictures I took. Btw, the carb is an AED.
Got some time to mess around with the brakes today....wanted to start to get that sorted before immobilizing the car by pulling the steering box.
I ran through the self adjusting process in revers about a half dozen times. There was definitely progress as the car no longer pulls to the left when getting on the brakes, but the front left tire locks up under anything but the most delicate of pedal application....any thoughts?
My first inclination is to pull the front left drum off and back the adjuster down 2 clicks and see if that makes any improvement but thought I'd get the input of the crowd first before going down a rabbit hole.
Got some time to mess around with the brakes today....wanted to start to get that sorted before immobilizing the car by pulling the steering box.
I ran through the self adjusting process in revers about a half dozen times. There was definitely progress as the car no longer pulls to the left when getting on the brakes, but the front left tire locks up under anything but the most delicate of pedal application....any thoughts?
My first inclination is to pull the front left drum off and back the adjuster down 2 clicks and see if that makes any improvement but thought I'd get the input of the crowd first before going down a rabbit hole.
Thanks
This is just a suggestion and not being critical but you might want to start a new post with this question. I think you would get more immediate help on it. I myself often read an original post and once read don't return to it very often. The original posting title of this thread won't lead to many answers on your brake problem, I fear. Just trying to help you get the answers you need. Dave
Mine pulled badly when I got it too Greg. I had a different scenario in all likelihood - one leaky cylinder with an occluded line (they often look fine outside!) and one working. It darted HARD!
I rebuilt mine with new cylinders shoes and hardware very inexpensively and they work very well. I use the self adjusters every so often. I'm not afraid to do a good track day on them.
It IS possible on pulling the drums you will find one has self adjusted much too close to the drum. I would pull both fronts and try adjusting each about equally and then do the backup stops a few times and drive again. You may need to do the tears but start with the fronts. And don't assume anything about the hoses and cylinder condition of that doesn't work.
Mine pulled badly when I got it too Greg. I had a different scenario in all likelihood - one leaky cylinder with an occluded line (they often look fine outside!) and one working. It darted HARD!
I rebuilt mine with new cylinders shoes and hardware very inexpensively and they work very well. I use the self adjusters every so often. I'm not afraid to do a good track day on them.
It IS possible on pulling the drums you will find one has self adjusted much too close to the drum. I would pull both fronts and try adjusting each about equally and then do the backup stops a few times and drive again. You may need to do the tears but start with the fronts. And don't assume anything about the hoses and cylinder condition of that doesn't work.
Let me know if I can help-
benton
Thanks Benton...Ill give that a shot and see what happens....will probably also throw the power bleeder on the system just to verify that I can push clean fluid to all 4 corners.
This is just a suggestion and not being critical but you might want to start a new post with this question. I think you would get more immediate help on it. I myself often read an original post and once read don't return to it very often. The original posting title of this thread won't lead to many answers on your brake problem, I fear. Just trying to help you get the answers you need. Dave
Agreed....I figured I'd try to get a few more steps through the "trouble shooting tree" before I posted a separate thread....but you are absolutely correct.
05-13-2017, 10:28 AM
Hood closing issues....
