[C2] Where to start? 63 won't start!
#1
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Where to start? 63 won't start!
So it won't start--- nothing, no click, no nothing! Have horn, lights , radio and a battery I just disconnected the trickle charger from! Push it out of the garage-- work on it all day, get in to try it and it starts right up! What do you all think? Second time this has happened. Did it back in the fall. Appreciate any ideas! Thanks.
Jmills
Jmills
#2
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Have you checked the bulkhead connection under the hood on the firewall? Wiggle it while some one turns the key to start. Very common problem with these cars.
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JMills (04-18-2017)
#3
Team Owner
I'm betting on the connection to the starter solenoid, or the solenoid itself. My 65 did the same thing and the solenoid fixed it. When you turn the key to start, does the battery gauge deflect left? If you turn on the headlights and try to start, do the headlights dim?
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JMills (04-18-2017)
#4
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I'm betting on the connection to the starter solenoid, or the solenoid itself. My 65 did the same thing and the solenoid fixed it. When you turn the key to start, does the battery gauge deflect left? If you turn on the headlights and try to start, do the headlights dim?
Good luck!
Tom
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JMills (04-18-2017)
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JMills (04-19-2017)
#7
Melting Slicks
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I had this happen yesterday. Drove 25 miles, parked for 30 minutes, got back in and nothing. Wiggled the battery cables although they seemed tight and started right up. Cleaning as stated above scheduled for today's activity!
Last edited by dkleather; 04-19-2017 at 11:42 AM.
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JMills (04-19-2017)
#8
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St. Jude Donor '12
X2. I chased an intermittent no fire condition, even where it would quit running going down the road. It was the bulkhead connector. It is very common..
#9
Team Owner
I'm betting on the connection to the starter solenoid, or the solenoid itself. My 65 did the same thing and the solenoid fixed it. When you turn the key to start, does the battery gauge deflect left? If you turn on the headlights and try to start, do the headlights dim?
I usually put a multimeter across the battery while engaging the starter...with the ignition coil H/T lead grounded. If the voltage drops to 9V-10V that's pretty normal. Higher and there are prob corroded connections somewhere. Lower and the battery may be shot..
Last edited by Frankie the Fink; 04-19-2017 at 06:03 PM.
#10
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All of the above suggestions are good and of course it could be any of them. Maybe he is checking them out one by one to figure it out. I am sure he will let us know what he finds.
#11
Also check the ignition switch make sure its getting to the starter or solenoid
#12
Make sure when you turn key on the power is going to solenoid and starter.
#13
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I appreciate everybody's help/advice! And I literally took everyone's advice. Started with the battery cables and gave them a nice cleaning on both ends ! Brand-new battery, but nevertheless checked the amps, A-OK. Took off and cleaned all the connections on the selonoid/ starter! Checked the bulkhead connection, Heard a click, so I'm thinking possibly that was the problem ! Thanks 68Hemi ! Anyway, it started fine today, about a half dozen starts with no failures ! I'll keep my fingers crossed !
Thanks again, you guys are great!
Jmills
Thanks again, you guys are great!
Jmills
#14
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I appreciate everybody's help/advice! And I literally took everyone's advice. Started with the battery cables and gave them a nice cleaning on both ends ! Brand-new battery, but nevertheless checked the amps, A-OK. Took off and cleaned all the connections on the selonoid/ starter! Checked the bulkhead connection, Heard a click, so I'm thinking possibly that was the problem ! Thanks 68Hemi ! Anyway, it started fine today, about a half dozen starts with no failures ! I'll keep my fingers crossed !
Thanks again, you guys are great!
Jmills
Thanks again, you guys are great!
Jmills
If the holders are broken or there are other problems with the connectors you can replace the individual connectors in the bulkhead block. If it is beyond repair I know they were available repo years ago only with the complete wiring harness (expensive) but may be available now separately.
#15
Melting Slicks
My '66 had a similar issue recently. It was very intermittent at first and progressively happened more frequently. It would crank normally one time, then the next time, nothing at all! My ignition switch was going bad. Replaced it and has been working well ever since.
#16
Team Owner
You can take that bulkhead connector apart from the engine side. Be careful with those old brittle plastic barbed press holders that hold the two pieces together. Inspect the electrical connections, spray with appropriate contact cleaner, brush lightly with a brass brush and lube all with dielectric grease and put it back together.
If the holders are broken or there are other problems with the connectors you can replace the individual connectors in the bulkhead block. If it is beyond repair I know they were available repo years ago only with the complete wiring harness (expensive) but may be available now separately.
If the holders are broken or there are other problems with the connectors you can replace the individual connectors in the bulkhead block. If it is beyond repair I know they were available repo years ago only with the complete wiring harness (expensive) but may be available now separately.
If the problem is in that area its most likely corrosion. If cleaned with a brass brush you must make absolutely sure no brass strands are left in the connector when finished...
#18
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x2 !
#19
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Hey guys you need to follow the thread by reading ALL of the posts, the OP found the problem.