SilverOverdrives

You really don't have any chatter issues with clutches until you start getting into the ceramic/metallic friction materials found on the paddle or button style single disc kits.

Excessive bellhousing runout, parallelism issues and clutch disc contamination can also cause chatter.

Jeff

SilverOverdrives

What's the name on your order so I can review?

Jeff

Vettrocious

Didn't they use Tyrannosaurus dung as lube back then? That stuff was great

Vettrocious

Jeff, I PM'd you.

The clutch is yours, and the runout was extremely small (my firm measures such things in the ten thousandths all day long, so it's accurate, beyond any doubt). I'd guess that if contamination or parallelism were issues, it'd chatter in reverse too...

For the rest of you guys, I'm not unhappy with SST at this point, they've been great, I'm sure they'll continue to be helpful...

number3

I will let ya know how it goes with mine as soon as i get'er done

SilverOverdrives

Sounds good. I haven't seen the PM yet but I'll keep checking.

I realize I may be beating a dead horse here, don't hesitate to reach out if needed.

Jeff

number3

SST's integrity and customer service is evident by Jeff stepping in to help resolve the issue . I havent heard anyone bash them on this forum or any other. And i hope i didnt come across that way either.

Lotsacubes

No bashing going on from me. Our car is a 3.70. Chatter was ugly. We took Centerforce out with the initial SST kit install so I chose to put new Centerforce parts back in to replace the parts supplied with the kit. I had no idea what was in the car when we purchased it but really liked it (didn't want to reuse the CF parts we took out). Maybe the base SST components are improved from a year ago. But the expense of removing the new TKO to replace with higher end clutch components is way more than upgrading to start with. That's my point. And again, if I ever do another C2 TKO upgrade I will definitely use SST... and the best clutch money can buy.

To summarize.... SST and their transmission has been great.... just don't cheap out on the clutch on a 6K upgrade to at least a +50k car. The expense of pulling your new TKO back out (if paying someone) is way more than buying the best to start with. I know.

Vettrocious

Well, changing the whole differential is a bit easier than the removing the trans, although, I did put in a removable crossmember. Since I have the 3.7 diff pig, I may try that first.

Before that, though, I probably could use some input from someone on why the chatter goes away in reverse...

GTOguy

Chatter may go away in reverse if your reverse gear is lower than your first gear. You benefit from the torque multiplication of the low gear, which stresses the engine/clutch less.

Vettrocious

So, if SST can tell me the gear ratios of the TREMEC first gear and also its reverse gear, I should be able to figure out what differential ratio will give me the same first gear situation that I have in reverse today. Hopefully, end of problem. 🍾🍾

tuxnharley

It depends on which model Tremec you have. I believe there are two different first gear ratios available. Mine is a 3.27 ratio. There is also a 2.87 available.

Reverse is 3.00 with the 3.27 first, and 2.56 with the 2.87.

So reverse is always lower gearing (taller) than first. Probably doesnt explain the chattering difference as you were hoping.

Vettrocious

Well, that sucks... - back to the drawing board...maybe Jeff can fill in the numbers for my trans

wmf62

the transmission is a Keisler SS700, I used to use a MY6 4spd where 4th was OD and that is all the gears I needed. now I have 5 and it is just a pia to have to use all the gears to get to 1 to 1 gearing or OD..

for the average person, in MY opinion, 5spd is just an extra gear, God forbid if one has 6 or more.... so, I skip a gear, 2nd being the easiest to skip...

Bill

wmf62

I have a 3.36 in my 62, with the 3.09 1st of the MY6 it was effortless starting up. I don't know what your 1st is, maybe 3.27 like referenced in an above post, or a 2.87; if a 3.27 a 3.08 shouldn't be a problem....

3.27 x 3.08 = 10.07
3.09 x 3.36 = 10.38

of course a 3.5 or 3.7 wouldn't be a problem....

the SS700 1st is 2.66 so

2.66 x 3.36 = 8.94.... not even close to the preferable 10+.... i'm the one that needs a 3.5 or 3.7...

if the Tremec is the 2.87
2.87 x 3.08 = 8.84.... again, not close to 10

and, it will depend a lot on what engine you have and where it develops its torque... a high performance engine is usually shy on low end torque, so that exacerbates the problem...

if installing and the making modifications weren't so difficult, i'd undo it and rebuild the MY6 and put it back in....

bottom line, you should be good with the Tremec with 3.27; the 2.87, not so good...; what is causing the 'chatter I can only guess, something like oil on the disc could cause it...

Bill

jet-tech

I replaced my TH350 auto last year with a tremor TKO500. A real PINA do. I also had a 3.08 rear gear. No issue with chatter in any gear. Last month I had the differential rebuilt by Traccdogg2, aka Mike Dwyer had the gear changed to a 3.36. Car still on the jacks, not quite done with other prodects.

SilverOverdrives

Mike,

I found your order and you have a TKO 600 (TCET5009) with the following ratios:

2.87
1.89
1.28
1.00
.64 O/D

Reverse - 2.56

I don't know what the conversation was between you and Ben at the time but I would have steered you to the 500 (TCET4616) with these ratios:

3.27
1.98
1.34
1.00
.68 O/D

Reverse - 3.00

3.08 gears can be difficult to work with and personally, I prefer the gearing of the 500 series when using a 3.08. That being said, you have one of the easiest clutch kits to work with and it still should not be chattering. I do think increasing your gearing would eliminate the chatter. This would reduce the need to slip the clutch as much to get the car moving which is a big benefit with a 327 engine that does not have a lot of low end grunt.

The rule of thumb regarding gearing is you want a 10.0 starting line ratio. Your current combination is 8.84 (2.87 1st gear x rear axle ratio) and if you switched to a 3.73 rear that would provide an SLR of 10.70. 10.70 is a bit on the low side but totally acceptable with a 327 engine.

For comparison, the 3.27 1st gear would provide a 10.07 SLR.

Jeff

Vettrocious

Thanks Jeff,

Sounds like maybe the lack of chatter in reverse is just an anomaly. As I stated earlier, I do have the original differential case (one that originally had 4.11 gears) that now has a 3.7 in it. I could go with the 3.7 or put the 4.11 gear back into that case. This is not a car that will be raced and highway cruising is more important than off the line performance, so I think putting the 3.7 back in will be best. Not looking forward to tearing into it again, though...

Mike

SilverOverdrives

Mike,

You could do either.

Assuming a 26" tire diameter, 2200 cruising rpms would equal...

3.70 = 71.28 mph
4.11 = 64.69 mph

Highway cruising being the goal, the 3.70 would be more appropriate.

Jeff

6T7L71CPE

Could it be you have a bad motor or trans mount that's causing the "chattering"???