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When I installed Halogens they made the breaker open and lights blink off and on that tells they drew more current .
yes I read that somewhere else that's why I was thinking that the halogens would draw more current. I haven't studied up on the headlight bulbs enough yet to know what I'm talking about it.
yes I read that somewhere else that's why I was thinking that the halogens would draw more current. I haven't studied up on the headlight bulbs enough yet to know what I'm talking about it.
It becomes irrelevant vis a vis the headlight switch if you use relays. The thermal relays in the headlight switch are not a good means to determine current draw. On low beams (98% of our driving) the halogens draw far less current than original T3s.
You can read this thread from the Chevelle forum instead of relying on conjecture (see the chart comparing T3s to Halogens):
It becomes irrelevant vis a vis the headlight switch if you use relays. The thermal relays in the headlight switch are not a good means to determine current draw. On low beams (98% of our driving) the halogens draw far less current than original T3s.
You can read this thread from the Chevelle forum instead of relying on conjecture (see the chart comparing T3s to Halogens):
I looked at the article and did compare total wattage when high and low beams are on together at 12 volts .
The charts shows T-3s at total wattage at 78.4
Halogens at total wattage at the same 12 volts at 81.2
That's why when you install the Halogens on the stock harness with the high beams on the circuit breakers opens showing the wattage is more on Halogens when using all headlights at the same time.
I looked at the article and did compare total wattage when high and low beams are on together at 12 volts .
The charts shows T-3s at total wattage at 78.4
Halogens at total wattage at the same 12 volts at 81.2
That's why when you install the Halogens on the stock harness with the high beams on the circuit breakers opens showing the wattage is more on Halogens when using all headlights at the same time.
I won't get into it....I doubt those thermal breakers are tuned within 3 watts to make/break connections...they are gross failsafes at best.. If you looked at the chart then you know low beam driving with Halogens is significantly less current draw than T3s. With high beams the comparison the wattages is close but Halogens are slightly higher...
Again, with the relays it doesn't matter.
However, I run the stock harness, and, stock headlight switch (an 095 NOS 63-only switch to be exact) in my 63 WITH Halogens withOUT rleays and I have NO issues on hi or low beam...
Last edited by Frankie the Fink; 04-22-2017 at 09:12 AM.
Put LED Headlamps in and no wiring mods, relays, etc. are required. Plug and play!
I was considering that option. But from what I was reading most of them you have to cut out the metal headlight pot behind the headlight to make them fit. Do you know of a brand that will fit without interference?
I used a kit similar to this from Ebay when I switched to halogen lights. The quality is good, I've had it for two years and so far it works well. It replaced all the headlight wiring from the firewall connector to the headlights.
It becomes irrelevant vis a vis the headlight switch if you use relays. The thermal relays in the headlight switch are not a good means to determine current draw. On low beams (98% of our driving) the halogens draw far less current than original T3s.
You can read this thread from the Chevelle forum instead of relying on conjecture (see the chart comparing T3s to Halogens):
I won't get into it....I doubt those thermal breakers are tuned within 3 watts to make/break connections...they are gross failsafes at best.. If you looked at the chart then you know low beam driving with Halogens is significantly less current draw than T3s. With high beams the comparison the wattages is close but Halogens are slightly higher...
Again, with the relays it doesn't matter.
However, I run the stock harness, and, stock headlight switch (an 095 NOS 63-only switch to be exact) in my 63 WITH Halogens withOUT rleays and I have NO issues on hi or low beam...
Not to give you a hard time take the 63 out leaving high beams on for
a little while and watch the light show . This is the second 63 I have done and both had light shows on high beams.
Remember on my set up this time I ran extra circuit with the relay set
up just for safety purposes. I used this set up with no trouble after installing the plug and play unit. Just saying so the outer guys can read about it this subject comes up 3 times a year. The unit can be purchased from summit racing Part -RFW HR-56
Hi Frank. I think on my 65 I'lI have to separate two of the stock connections that feeds high and low beam from the dimmer switch.. At the connection where the driver side headlight extension plugs into the main harness. There is a jumper wire in the harness side of that connector that runs over to the passenger side headlights. That jumper wire to the passenger side head light and the wire for the driver side light will have to be fed from the relay. This is Doc Rebuilds wiring diagram. I put yellow and green circles on the two connections that would have to be separated. They currently have two wires crimped under one connector in these spots.
after rethinking this these connections do not have to be separated. When you turn on the light switch the original wires will turn the Headlights on ,but that will also power up the relay at the same time. Current will follow the path of least resistance through the heavier wire to the relay.
I was considering that option. But from what I was reading most of them you have to cut out the metal headlight pot behind the headlight to make them fit. Do you know of a brand that will fit without interference?
NONE - Mods to the LED headlamp assembly are required then Extensive bucket and trim ring mods are required to get them to fit.
Its not for the faint hearted.
I looked at the article and did compare total wattage when high and low beams are on together at 12 volts .
The charts shows T-3s at total wattage at 78.4
Halogens at total wattage at the same 12 volts at 81.2
That's why when you install the Halogens on the stock harness with the high beams on the circuit breakers opens showing the wattage is more on Halogens when using all headlights at the same time.
Ive had Halogens in my 67 for 3 decades, before I switched them out. and never once has the headlight breaker tripped or the headlamps turn off or flash during operation.
The 2.8W difference you indicate above would never trip the headlight breaker. You must have a repro of the original switch. They are problematic.
I'm still running the original 50 year old headlamp switch with no issues.
after rethinking this these connections do not have to be separated. When you turn on the light switch the original wires will turn the Headlights on ,but that will also power up the relay at the same time. Current will follow the path of least resistance through the heavier wire to the relay.
I have no clue what you are talking about... If you don't separate the trigger and main power you don't need the relays -- you already have that with the negative result of drawing power through the headlight and dimmer switches... You're overthinking the issue...
I have no clue what you are talking about... If you don't separate the trigger and main power you don't need the relays -- you already have that with the negative result of drawing power through the headlight and dimmer switches... You're overthinking the issue...
I understand what he is talking about, and it makes sense.
If you have a "skinny" wire feeding the headlights, with lots of other "draws" on it, it is subject to more resistance than a "fat" wire that feeds directly to the headlights, which is what most people/I do/did when adding the relays.
But if the stock wiring is left in place, you now have the "fat" wire that you added AND the "skinny" wire feeding the headlights, and any resistance of the "skinny" wire becomes a moot point because the fat wire makes up for it.
In fact, some current from the "relays/fat wire" could now backfeed through the "skinny" wire into the dash wiring perhaps even brightening up those lights a bit.
Of course, the fusing could now be "weird" because you are feeding current from "two directions" so you would need to fuse "both sides" and then how would you figure out what value each fuse should be for adequate protection?
I understand what he is talking about, and it makes sense.
If you have a "skinny" wire feeding the headlights, with lots of other "draws" on it, it is subject to more resistance than a "fat" wire that feeds directly to the headlights, which is what most people/I do/did when adding the relays.
But if the stock wiring is left in place, you now have the "fat" wire that you added AND the "skinny" wire feeding the headlights, and any resistance of the "skinny" wire becomes a moot point because the fat wire makes up for it.
In fact, some current from the "relays/fat wire" could now backfeed through the "skinny" wire into the dash wiring perhaps even brightening up those lights a bit.
Of course, the fusing could now be "weird" because you are feeding current from "two directions" so you would need to fuse "both sides" and then how would you figure out what value each fuse should be for adequate protection?
Uh. If you say so. I'll stick with the Mad Electric approach.
04-21-2017, 08:56 PM
LOL