c2 corvette ls7 swap help
#1
7th Gear
Thread Starter
c2 corvette ls7 swap help
Anyone ever done a ls7 swap in a c2 corvette with a tko-600 trans?
Im having trouble with lining up the transmission with the braket on the cross member. im about 3-4 inches to short. i am using muscle rod engine mounts and hurst trans mount.
Im having trouble with lining up the transmission with the braket on the cross member. im about 3-4 inches to short. i am using muscle rod engine mounts and hurst trans mount.
#2
Le Mans Master
Are the muscle rod engine mounts adjustable?
I have not swapped an LS7 into a C2, but I have completed a few LS swaps into various mid-60s Chevy's and the bad news is:
never once has everything lined up to the point where your could bolt non-adjustable motor mounts to the engine, and a non-adjustable transmission mount to your gearbox of choice, and bolt it all together with everything lining up. I'm making some assumptions in my response because I've attempted to use the muscle rod mounts in the past with zero success.
My recommendation would be to get some adjustable motor mounts that allow you to position the engine in the bay where you want it. Then bolt the transmission up and determine where the cross member needs to be. Then adjust your crossmember mounting point on the frame.
Believe me, I understand your frustration....unfortunately new motors and transmissions don't bolt into old cars like Legos.
If you've got any pictures of where you're at and how far out your mounts are, I may be able to be of more assistance.
Good Luck
I have not swapped an LS7 into a C2, but I have completed a few LS swaps into various mid-60s Chevy's and the bad news is:
never once has everything lined up to the point where your could bolt non-adjustable motor mounts to the engine, and a non-adjustable transmission mount to your gearbox of choice, and bolt it all together with everything lining up. I'm making some assumptions in my response because I've attempted to use the muscle rod mounts in the past with zero success.
My recommendation would be to get some adjustable motor mounts that allow you to position the engine in the bay where you want it. Then bolt the transmission up and determine where the cross member needs to be. Then adjust your crossmember mounting point on the frame.
Believe me, I understand your frustration....unfortunately new motors and transmissions don't bolt into old cars like Legos.
If you've got any pictures of where you're at and how far out your mounts are, I may be able to be of more assistance.
Good Luck
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diesil (05-01-2017)
#4
Drifting
Cheers,
Frank
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diesil (05-01-2017)
#6
Melting Slicks
Not exactly the same but I did an LS7 on an SRiii frame and LGT700 trans. See pic below. I don't think you can move the crossmember forward as the exhaust tubs will hit the floorboard. Your engine looks about 1" farther forward than mine. The trans. mount looks about 2-2.5" off, so move the engine back a little and fabricate a new bracket to weld to the crossmember that puts the mounting holes a little farther forward. That should get you there.
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diesil (05-01-2017)
#7
7th Gear
Thread Starter
thank you any help is helpful!
Not exactly the same but I did an LS7 on an SRiii frame and LGT700 trans. See pic below. I don't think you can move the crossmember forward as the exhaust tubs will hit the floorboard. Your engine looks about 1" farther forward than mine. The trans. mount looks about 2-2.5" off, so move the engine back a little and fabricate a new bracket to weld to the crossmember that puts the mounting holes a little farther forward. That should get you there.
#8
Drifting
I've seen a ton of LS3 and LS7 swaps (in C2s), on this forum, so I know they fit in a C2 chassis with a TKO trans...I agree that your motor mounts are most likely the problem...
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diesil (12-04-2017)
#9
Le Mans Master
Ive had good luck with Dirty Dingo mounts and some of the Holley mounts, although I don't know if Holley makes one specifically for the C2
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diesil (12-04-2017)
#10
Intermediate
diesil - are you planning to use a slave cylinder for the clutch or going mechanical? I'm curious if you found a set of headers that will work with the stock clutch bell crank, if your plan is mechanical. Sort of off the thread topic, but the motor mounts and headers seem to go hand in hand...
I'm planning an LS swap in my 63 and would prefer to keep the mechanical linkage, but I haven't found many budget friendly options for engine mounts & headers that will pass the mechanical linkage.
I'm planning an LS swap in my 63 and would prefer to keep the mechanical linkage, but I haven't found many budget friendly options for engine mounts & headers that will pass the mechanical linkage.
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diesil (12-04-2017)
#11
When you buy the TKO kit, the supplied mount assumes the engine is in the "factory position". When you read the blurb on the Muscle Rod mounts it doesn't sound like that's where they locate the engine as they work with a specific oil pan and prioritize steering and a/c interference.
I used the Dingo Double D's.
They specifically state the first set of holes are "factory bellhousing location" and the others move the engine forward. The factory holes allowed everything to bolt up for me.
I used the Dingo Double D's.
They specifically state the first set of holes are "factory bellhousing location" and the others move the engine forward. The factory holes allowed everything to bolt up for me.
#12
I just finished an LS7 swap into my 66 with the stock frame using these adjustable motor mounts from Dirty Dingo....
https://www.dirtydingo.com/shop/prod...oducts_id=1372
I used the Dirty Dingo adjustable mounts WITH my old bigblock mounts and every thing lined up nice!
Last edited by Dbl6gun; 05-07-2017 at 02:34 PM.
#13
When you buy the TKO kit, the supplied mount assumes the engine is in the "factory position". When you read the blurb on the Muscle Rod mounts it doesn't sound like that's where they locate the engine as they work with a specific oil pan and prioritize steering and a/c interference.
I used the Dingo Double D's.
They specifically state the first set of holes are "factory bellhousing location" and the others move the engine forward. The factory holes allowed everything to bolt up for me.
I used the Dingo Double D's.
They specifically state the first set of holes are "factory bellhousing location" and the others move the engine forward. The factory holes allowed everything to bolt up for me.
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diesil (12-04-2017)
#14
7th Gear
Thread Starter
diesil - are you planning to use a slave cylinder for the clutch or going mechanical? I'm curious if you found a set of headers that will work with the stock clutch bell crank, if your plan is mechanical. Sort of off the thread topic, but the motor mounts and headers seem to go hand in hand...
I'm planning an LS swap in my 63 and would prefer to keep the mechanical linkage, but I haven't found many budget friendly options for engine mounts & headers that will pass the mechanical linkage.
I'm planning an LS swap in my 63 and would prefer to keep the mechanical linkage, but I haven't found many budget friendly options for engine mounts & headers that will pass the mechanical linkage.
took me a while to see this sorry. but i will be using a hydraulic clutch. i dont think you could use a mech. clutch unless you cut into the body to make space for it
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SliderR1 (12-04-2017)
#15
Instructor
I know this an old post ... but I thought I ping this group with a question.
I've done an LS3 + TKO600 swap in a C2 .. fairly painless with adjustable mounts. The engine and oil pan fit perfectly over the Flaming River R&P setup.
I'm now doing another c2 with an Ls7 + TKX600. The LS7 is a dry sump motor and I'd really like to keep that ... its sort of an LS7 "fingerprint". Anyway, the question I have is whether the stock Ls7 dry sump oil pan will clear the R&P setup. Has anyone done this?
Thanks!
eboch
I've done an LS3 + TKO600 swap in a C2 .. fairly painless with adjustable mounts. The engine and oil pan fit perfectly over the Flaming River R&P setup.
I'm now doing another c2 with an Ls7 + TKX600. The LS7 is a dry sump motor and I'd really like to keep that ... its sort of an LS7 "fingerprint". Anyway, the question I have is whether the stock Ls7 dry sump oil pan will clear the R&P setup. Has anyone done this?
Thanks!
eboch
#16
Instructor
Update;
Regarding my the LS7/C2 swap project .... The LS7 is in and the dry-sump pan does clear the Flaming River power R&P. The forward drain plug on the LS7 dry sump pan is also accessible and clear the Flaming River R&P.
I'm using the same adaptor engine mounts as I used on a previous LS3/C2 swap (which also using a Tremec TKO600 5-speed);
Summit Racing SUM-7731101
These mounts have 3 fixed positions that you can select/use (3 sets of tapped holes) for the SBC mounts. I use the holes furthest to the front of the block. Using these, the LS is snugged up against the firewall and the trans mount location seems correct, as the is the position of the shifter (I use a C2-LS-Tremec kit from SilverSport Transmissions). You have to be careful not to have to big of a bundle of engine harness cabling at the rear of the LS, especially on the passenger side, because that engine head is further back (as compared to the driver side).
Cheers
eboch
Regarding my the LS7/C2 swap project .... The LS7 is in and the dry-sump pan does clear the Flaming River power R&P. The forward drain plug on the LS7 dry sump pan is also accessible and clear the Flaming River R&P.
I'm using the same adaptor engine mounts as I used on a previous LS3/C2 swap (which also using a Tremec TKO600 5-speed);
Summit Racing SUM-7731101
These mounts have 3 fixed positions that you can select/use (3 sets of tapped holes) for the SBC mounts. I use the holes furthest to the front of the block. Using these, the LS is snugged up against the firewall and the trans mount location seems correct, as the is the position of the shifter (I use a C2-LS-Tremec kit from SilverSport Transmissions). You have to be careful not to have to big of a bundle of engine harness cabling at the rear of the LS, especially on the passenger side, because that engine head is further back (as compared to the driver side).
Cheers
eboch
#17
Melting Slicks
You can get many vendor's motor mounts that work and will position your motor in the stock corvette SBC location:
Here's on other example -
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/icb-551628
Here's on other example -
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/icb-551628
Last edited by vjjack04; 05-02-2022 at 06:37 PM. Reason: add
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SVASSH (05-03-2022)