R66

The tanks generally rust out under the support straps(generally start as pin holes). Thus, any reasonable repair over the pin hole will be somewhat retained by the strap when reinstalled in the car.
A BUBBA / FARMER recommendation would be to clean the area with sandpaper or other abrasive (not creating sparks from motorized abrasives - BOOM). Apply the JB Weld or other epoxy of your choice and then cut a rubber gasket the width of the strap (cut from an old inner tube, like bicycle tube). Adhere the rubber to the repair area and well beyond (maybe the whole length of the straps like the original asphaltic softener under the strap).
Thus if the epoxy starts to fail and seep, the rubber gasket will act like the pan gasket on the oil pan or other gasket.
The key is to stop the rust around the repair area (Impossible in the rust belt).
I have used the sheetmetal screw and rubber washer, but it is a 1 or 2 year repair at best. The rust is not only on the outside of the tank, but also the inside. If the screw is in the area of the strap, it may fail as you tighten up the strap to hold the tank up and move the screw around.

A permanent repair is welding. My Grandfather used to do it all of the time by filling the tank with water and then brazing a piece of metal over the hole. I never had the guts to do it myself. There are A FEW GOOD MEN that still have the knowledge and GONADS to do the job if you can find one. Ain't going to happen in the cities of big bucks.

SonnyAK

I once tried to secure a locking ring on the bottom of my C2 that was starting to pull away with JB Weld. It seemed to hold well at first, but with some use began separating again and the leak started again. I purchased a new tank and that's the route I'd go from the beginning...Pretty reasonably priced.

GCD1962

Lots of good suggestion, but I went with the J-B Weld and it seems to work quite well (so far). The replacement tanks that are listed for a '68 do not work as the fuel sending outlet is in the wrong location. Manufacturer has it listed incorrectly.

The overall condition of the tank is pretty good as it's a southern car. I believe the pinhole started on the inside as it is located at the lowest point of the tank. I cleaned the entire tank on the outside and painted it.

wmf62

time will tell...


Bill

waynec

Does your tank look like either of these on eBay? >>>
http://tinyurl.com/kqh4y5m
http://tinyurl.com/lltnxgh

GCD1962

Nope, neither one and that is the problem. The companies are listing that tank for a '68 wagon, but it can not be used as such. The sending unit hole is on the top of both of those. On the '68 it is on the end (skinny side) of the tank. When it is positioned on those two tanks shown it would rest against the body and would be impossible to have the sending unit and outlet installed. Right at that point on my tank (and on three other corners) there is padding on the tank where it rests against the body.

I'm still going back and forth with Rock Auto. They refunded and paid return shipping but I want the original shipping back too

mrg

An 'ah crap' moment helping a bud jump start his car: Upon removing a cable clamp the clamp shorted out momentarily against the expansion tank creating a burn through leak hole. My bud offered up a fix in tube form called 'liquid solder', I think it was called . I was skeptical the 'fix' would work. .. After hardening in place on the tank exterior, the fix held and is still holding fast today. That was in 1977.
John