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I am going to remind anyone doing windshield/ dash pad install that when these cars came from the factory THEY DIDN'T LEAK. No matter what anyone here tells you.
You ask: why they didn't leak?
Because they used strip caulk under that rubber windshield gasket that goes between the windshield frame and the fiberglass. Before you put the gasket down, put a circle of strip caulk around each T bolt hole and the end pillar bolt holes, or, just run a couple solid lines of strip caulk down the fiberglass channel before placing the gasket, and again on top of the gasket before you out the frame on. Your car won't leak around the windshield to body junction.
I had my neighbor and his BIL help me mount my 61 windshield frame after I put black butyl down in that body windshield channel. After an hour we got the damn thing on and had to bath in lacquer thinner to get that nasty, sticky black stuff off of US.
Now i I have heard of people tying strong thread around the T-bolt threads to pull them through the body holes when installing the windshield frame. I didn't do it though.[/QUOTE]
Thanks
I have a set of swivel sockets and a wobble joint. But... I am not looking forward to this project! I'm not as flexible as I once was and also fatter than I once was!!
Now i I have heard of people tying strong thread around the T-bolt threads to pull them through the body holes when installing the windshield frame. I didn't do it though.
What di you mean strong thread.[/QUOTE]
Like stuff that won't snap easily. Once the T-bolts are well through the fiberglass the thread is removed. I imagine fishing leader line or the like would work. As I said I've never used the technique but some swear by it.
after I put black butyl down in that body windshield channel.
If thats the stuff I think it is, i feel sorry for the next guy who has to take that windshield off. No wonder you sold the car.
I really like the 3M strip caulk (I am sure others make it also), as it never hardens and it isn't an adhesive, you can actually get it off fairly easily after 20 years.
If thats the stuff I think it is, i feel sorry for the next guy who has to take that windshield off. No wonder you sold the car.
I really like the 3M strip caulk (I am sure others make it also), as it never hardens and it isn't an adhesive, you can actually get it off fairly easily after 20 years.
With this thread talking about excess foam on the dash pad and preventing a perfect fit to the windshield I thought I better check my new AK dash pad out. It doesn't seem to have any excess foam and it appears that it may be close to have enough "flap" material for the windshield channel, about an inch and a half.
Last edited by Scott Marzahl; 05-18-2017 at 09:52 PM.
Every AK pad typically has a sharp ridge of foam at the front edge, although some are missing foam like a recent one I just got in and had to be returned. To avoid the problem of the raised rubber seal, I always trim the foam at the front edge along the entire length.
This allows the front edge to lay flat against the edge of the channel down into the valley. It's a tedious step and you have to cut carefully, but if you don't do this the result will be obvious when the rubber sticks up in various places.
BTW, of the 5 or 6 58-62 pads I[ve done over the last few years, every one of them was like a box-o-chocolates. Each one needed a different modification to prepare for installation. This really makes it hard for the one-time installer who has never done one before. I've told them many times about these issues, but.............
Every AK pad typically has a sharp ridge of foam at the front edge, although some are missing foam like a recent one I just got in and had to be returned. To avoid the problem of the raised rubber seal, I always trim the foam at the front edge along the entire length.
This allows the front edge to lay flat against the edge of the channel down into the valley. It's a tedious step and you have to cut carefully, but if you don't do this the result will be obvious when the rubber sticks up in various places.
BTW, of the 5 or 6 58-62 pads I[ve done over the last few years, every one of them was like a box-o-chocolates. Each one needed a different modification to prepare for installation. This really makes it hard for the one-time installer who has never done one before. I've told them many times about these issues, but.............
Rich
Rich
your under-the-windshield 'flap' seems to be quite flexible, mine appears to be shrunken/folded-over/curled. the OP said his was the same but he was able to flatten it so it fit down into the channel by the use of a heat gun? true??? and once heated and laid into the channel, will it not reshrink/recurl as it cools down and pull itself out??? does the 'flap' have to be outwardly cut in order for it to turn the curves to lay flat???
i'm actually disappointed as I have one of the original AK pads and I know it wasn't like this....
Rich
your under-the-windshield 'flap' seems to be quite flexible, mine appears to be shrunken/folded-over/curled. the OP said his was the same but he was able to flatten it so it fit down into the channel by the use of a heat gun? true??? and once heated and laid into the channel, will it not reshrink/recurl as it cools down and pull itself out??? does the 'flap' have to be outwardly cut in order for it to turn the curves to lay flat???
i'm actually disappointed as I have one of the original AK pads and I know it wasn't like this....
Bill
Bill, I only trim the foam at the edge where needed. I guess what I'm trying to do is show how it can help avoid a problem like the OP had/has. I don't know if his will stay put, time will tell.
I usually don't slice the vinyl at the curves, I just glue it down and never had a problem. It'll wrinkle a bit there in the valley but the exposed part where the rubber lays down is molded as a curve.
I have tried to use a heat gun on a area like that before with unsatisfactory results on a pad someone else did on a '61. It also had wrinkles in the corners due to a defective glass rubber seal. I ended up removing the windshield. I fixed that with a new rubber seal that was shorter, then when I laid the assembly back on the car, where the rubber wrinkles used to be..... were now raised areas due to the thick foam at the front edge. I pulled the windshield again.
Using a heat gun at a warm setting, ie from a distance, I pulled the entire glued flap back up and had to trim that foam as far rearward as I could. I even ended up pulling the defrosters as the foam was too thick there also. I re-glued it down into the valley and could see the difference. I reinstalled the windshield, all was good do I buttoned it up. The car just left Saturday so I can't get any more photos.
Every AK pad typically has a sharp ridge of foam at the front edge, although some are missing foam like a recent one I just got in and had to be returned. To avoid the problem of the raised rubber seal, I always trim the foam at the front edge along the entire length.
This allows the front edge to lay flat against the edge of the channel down into the valley. It's a tedious step and you have to cut carefully, but if you don't do this the result will be obvious when the rubber sticks up in various places.
BTW, of the 5 or 6 58-62 pads I[ve done over the last few years, every one of them was like a box-o-chocolates. Each one needed a different modification to prepare for installation. This really makes it hard for the one-time installer who has never done one before. I've told them many times about these issues, but.............
Rich
Thank you for taking the time to reply. I wish I had had this info before I did my install but hopefully it will help someone in the future. My pad looks much nicer now than the 35 year old pad it replaced even with the imperfect windshield flap. I'm just going to drive it and enjoy
What size calk rope did you purchase? I have a similar issue with my new install as the pad is slightly higher than where the rubber is causing it to slip down a bit from the dash.
05-18-2017, 03:31 PM
