DUB

You are aware that the panel that has been stripped (if factory) is not gelcoated.

CORRECT...ANY product that is applied to this surface would be a MECHANICAL BOND.

There is nothing wrong with a mechanical bond being required versus chemical bond.

DUB

Robert61

The gray in the pic is gel coat. It's a hand laid replacement nose. I took the pic to show the gel coat with stood the soda blasting in tact. If you look at the front and top you can see where the gel coat is sanded through.

ChattanoogaJSB

Edit:

DUB: I like pie.

I am done stirring the pot.

Benton

DansYellow66

Gelcoat was the first product I ever sprayed out of a spray gun. Worked fine and not all that difficult. I almost did lose my gun with one load due to rising temps but got it cleaned out OK. Acetone is your friend.

And I was glad I covered everything, and I mean everything including the floor with visqueen for overspray. After getting through the cure wax film it sanded fine and keeping lines sharp was no problem - mine are much sharper and straighter now than when I purchased the car due to prior paint jobs. I used Slicksand on my Cobra and except for dealing with the wax on the Ecklers gelcoat, it's about half a dozen of one and six of the other. I think the old Featherfill pretty much falls in this general group too.

For my 1/2 cents worth, on a C2 I would still use gelcoat over a body that has had a lot of repairs, had panel contamination or panel replacement. If I was fortunate enough to have a nearly virgin body with no issues I would probably use epoxy. Don't know about a C1 as they have their own issues but it seems to me that Gelcoat would definitely be the way to go with one of them that is showing signs of surface degrading.

I will say Gelcoat was way oversold by some back in the 80s. I remember reading magazine articles that said you don't even have to fix stress cracks with Gelcoat - it will cover and seal them up and they won't come back. Snake oil body shops and magazine writers.

DUB

Thank you for clarifying it.

I will say that... you are bold as heck in soda blasting your car. To each his/her own. ALL I will add...and I am sure you more than likely have looked into this...is to contact the tech department of the manufacturer of what you plan on applying on the soda blasted body panels first and see what they recommend you do to make sure the adhesion is there and any of the possible remaining salts area all gone to make sure what you applied adheres.

DUB

DUB

Just goes to show you that not everyone knew what they were talking about. Just because it made it to print does not make it right....it is all about magazine sales....often times...not every time but often times it is.
And that is what a correction or retraction is used for in the next months issue. And the funny thing is that so many other things have changed in how things are done that what was done back then is looked at as foolish and NOT done any longer like that.

DUB

Robert61

I'm going to wash this thing with soap and water and then lacquer thinner so many times nothing should be able to stay on it. I tried scraping and stripper but with 4 paint jobs on it I wasn't gonna live long enough to finish either of those. I have a 66 GTO that had the doors fenders and trunk soda blasted. No issues with it. I will say in my research for neutralizing the soda John Z and others say just water does it. There won't be many places for it to hide. I have the rocker supports out, I'm replacing the hood surround, and changing the quarters to the wider GTS ones. It's pretty wide open.

DUB

As long as you are aware and have an attack plan to get the fiberglass prepped for the next step.

DUB