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I probaly don't have a C1 clutch/TO bearing fork

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Old 05-29-2017, 01:39 PM
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AZDoug
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Default I probably don't have a C1 clutch/TO bearing fork

I got all my new clutch linkage in from pedal to clutch fork, replacing the 50 some year old worn out crap, and have extreme minimal adjustment left on the fork pushrod, such there isn't any adjustment left for clutch wear.

I had a good inch of adjustment on the rod with the worn out linkage.

I got the clutch fork free, when i bougth the car in '74, it is a clevis pin type, and not a dimple type like a Chevelle uses, but the fork bends in way far forward toward the front of the scatter shield. It may be from a newer Corvette, i don't know.

Anyway, I am NOT changing the fork, I have cut 3/4" out of the middle of the old adjustment rod, and will slip a 7/16" OD sleeve over the cut and weld the sleeve to the shortened rod. That seems the simplest fix.

Doug

Last edited by AZDoug; 05-29-2017 at 01:53 PM.
Old 05-29-2017, 02:05 PM
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wmf62
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Originally Posted by AZDoug
I got all my new clutch linkage in from pedal to clutch fork, replacing the 50 some year old worn out crap, and have extreme minimal adjustment left on the fork pushrod, such there isn't any adjustment left for clutch wear.

I had a good inch on teh rod with teh worn out linkage.

I got the clutch fork free, when i bougth the car in '74, it is a clevis pin type, and not a dimple type like a Chevelle uses, but the fork bends in way far forward toward the front of the scatter shield. It may be froma newer Corvette, i don't know.

Anyway, I am NOT changing the fork, I have cut 3/4" out of the middle of the old adjustment rod, and will slip a 7/16" OD sleeve over the cut and weld the sleeve to the shortened rod. That seems teh simplest fix.

Doug
C1s and C2s used a pin instead of a dimple, the C2 fork has a slightly different bend than the C1, but will probably work

just for entertainment, as I don't think it's your problem or solution; but I didn't have enough fork travel on the pressure plate before this one and we had to make a zbar arm extension to get more travel.

Bill
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Last edited by wmf62; 05-29-2017 at 02:09 PM.
Old 05-29-2017, 03:00 PM
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buns
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For future reference:





Old 05-29-2017, 03:13 PM
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AZDoug
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Thanks for the pic, I have a '64 and up fork. But, i guess it was free, in 1974....along with the (free) iron 55-57 Chev bell i ran for years, until i went to an Aluminum Chevelle bell (free), which just needed some ingenuity to mount the inner pivot ball bracket, until i finally put a scatter shield on in 1990 which could mount a correct bracket...

I am surprised you didn't have enough fork travel to disengage the clutch.

Is your clutch pedal too low? The rubber pedal stop bushing I bought, was too thick, i had to trim about half of it off to get the pedal to proper height.

Doug

Last edited by AZDoug; 05-29-2017 at 03:45 PM.
Old 05-29-2017, 03:15 PM
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AZDoug
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Is a '63 clutch fork different? That year is skipped in the pic.

Doug
Old 05-29-2017, 03:27 PM
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Typical '63 one year only part.





Old 05-29-2017, 03:32 PM
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wmf62
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Originally Posted by AZDoug
Thanks for the pic, I have a '64 and up fork. But, i guess it was free, in 1974....along with the (free) iron 55-57 Chev bell i ran for years, until i went to an Aluminum Chevelle bell (free), which just needed some ingenuity to mount the inner pivot ball bracket, until i finally put a scatter shield on in 1990 which could mount a correct bracket...

Bill, your mod gives you more leverage/softer pedal also, but at the expensive of more pedal travel. I am surprised you didn't have enough fork travel to disengage the clutch.

Is your clutch pedal too low? The rubber pedal stop bushing I bought, was too thick, i had to trim about half of it off to get the pedal to proper height.

Doug
no, less leverage, more travel as the extension went on the arm that ties to the fork. Needed more travel to release the clutch (don't know why, just did. .. don't need it now so it has been removed.

Last edited by wmf62; 05-29-2017 at 09:13 PM.
Old 05-29-2017, 03:37 PM
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DansYellow66
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Originally Posted by AZDoug

Bill, your mod gives you more leverage/softer pedal also, but at the expensive of more pedal travel. I am surprised you didn't have enough fork travel to disengage the clutch.

Doug
I may misunderstand what Bill did, but to increase fork travel with that extension, I assume it's on the arm that the fork rod connects to and that should increase the pedal pressure by lessoning the mechanical advantage.

If it was on the pedal rod arm it would increase mechanical advantage and lesson pedal pressure, but decrease fork travel.

I think. possibly
Old 05-29-2017, 03:44 PM
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AZDoug
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You are correct. My mistake.

Doug

Originally Posted by DansYellow66
I may misunderstand what Bill did, but to increase fork travel with that extension, I assume it's on the arm that the fork rod connects to and that should increase the pedal pressure by lessoning the mechanical advantage.

If it was on the pedal rod arm it would increase mechanical advantage and lesson pedal pressure, but decrease fork travel.

I think. possibly
Old 05-29-2017, 07:26 PM
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davekp78
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Originally Posted by buns
For future reference:





According to the NCRS Guide the '56 had a spherical end on the clutch linkage rod with accompanying arm. I think the pin type was used from '57 on. Don't know about the '55.
Old 05-29-2017, 08:34 PM
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R66
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I have a half a dozen forks from the 50s and 60s. Is there a part number on them anywhere to identify them?? I have three in the junk that I could repair (T/O bearing spring broken) but they are worthless to me.

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