I probaly don't have a C1 clutch/TO bearing fork
#1
Race Director
Thread Starter
I probably don't have a C1 clutch/TO bearing fork
I got all my new clutch linkage in from pedal to clutch fork, replacing the 50 some year old worn out crap, and have extreme minimal adjustment left on the fork pushrod, such there isn't any adjustment left for clutch wear.
I had a good inch of adjustment on the rod with the worn out linkage.
I got the clutch fork free, when i bougth the car in '74, it is a clevis pin type, and not a dimple type like a Chevelle uses, but the fork bends in way far forward toward the front of the scatter shield. It may be from a newer Corvette, i don't know.
Anyway, I am NOT changing the fork, I have cut 3/4" out of the middle of the old adjustment rod, and will slip a 7/16" OD sleeve over the cut and weld the sleeve to the shortened rod. That seems the simplest fix.
Doug
I had a good inch of adjustment on the rod with the worn out linkage.
I got the clutch fork free, when i bougth the car in '74, it is a clevis pin type, and not a dimple type like a Chevelle uses, but the fork bends in way far forward toward the front of the scatter shield. It may be from a newer Corvette, i don't know.
Anyway, I am NOT changing the fork, I have cut 3/4" out of the middle of the old adjustment rod, and will slip a 7/16" OD sleeve over the cut and weld the sleeve to the shortened rod. That seems the simplest fix.
Doug
Last edited by AZDoug; 05-29-2017 at 01:53 PM.
#2
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St. Jude Donor '07
I got all my new clutch linkage in from pedal to clutch fork, replacing the 50 some year old worn out crap, and have extreme minimal adjustment left on the fork pushrod, such there isn't any adjustment left for clutch wear.
I had a good inch on teh rod with teh worn out linkage.
I got the clutch fork free, when i bougth the car in '74, it is a clevis pin type, and not a dimple type like a Chevelle uses, but the fork bends in way far forward toward the front of the scatter shield. It may be froma newer Corvette, i don't know.
Anyway, I am NOT changing the fork, I have cut 3/4" out of the middle of the old adjustment rod, and will slip a 7/16" OD sleeve over the cut and weld the sleeve to the shortened rod. That seems teh simplest fix.
Doug
I had a good inch on teh rod with teh worn out linkage.
I got the clutch fork free, when i bougth the car in '74, it is a clevis pin type, and not a dimple type like a Chevelle uses, but the fork bends in way far forward toward the front of the scatter shield. It may be froma newer Corvette, i don't know.
Anyway, I am NOT changing the fork, I have cut 3/4" out of the middle of the old adjustment rod, and will slip a 7/16" OD sleeve over the cut and weld the sleeve to the shortened rod. That seems teh simplest fix.
Doug
just for entertainment, as I don't think it's your problem or solution; but I didn't have enough fork travel on the pressure plate before this one and we had to make a zbar arm extension to get more travel.
Bill
Last edited by wmf62; 05-29-2017 at 02:09 PM.
#4
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Thread Starter
Thanks for the pic, I have a '64 and up fork. But, i guess it was free, in 1974....along with the (free) iron 55-57 Chev bell i ran for years, until i went to an Aluminum Chevelle bell (free), which just needed some ingenuity to mount the inner pivot ball bracket, until i finally put a scatter shield on in 1990 which could mount a correct bracket...
I am surprised you didn't have enough fork travel to disengage the clutch.
Is your clutch pedal too low? The rubber pedal stop bushing I bought, was too thick, i had to trim about half of it off to get the pedal to proper height.
Doug
I am surprised you didn't have enough fork travel to disengage the clutch.
Is your clutch pedal too low? The rubber pedal stop bushing I bought, was too thick, i had to trim about half of it off to get the pedal to proper height.
Doug
Last edited by AZDoug; 05-29-2017 at 03:45 PM.
#5
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Is a '63 clutch fork different? That year is skipped in the pic.
Doug
Doug
#7
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St. Jude Donor '07
Thanks for the pic, I have a '64 and up fork. But, i guess it was free, in 1974....along with the (free) iron 55-57 Chev bell i ran for years, until i went to an Aluminum Chevelle bell (free), which just needed some ingenuity to mount the inner pivot ball bracket, until i finally put a scatter shield on in 1990 which could mount a correct bracket...
Bill, your mod gives you more leverage/softer pedal also, but at the expensive of more pedal travel. I am surprised you didn't have enough fork travel to disengage the clutch.
Is your clutch pedal too low? The rubber pedal stop bushing I bought, was too thick, i had to trim about half of it off to get the pedal to proper height.
Doug
Bill, your mod gives you more leverage/softer pedal also, but at the expensive of more pedal travel. I am surprised you didn't have enough fork travel to disengage the clutch.
Is your clutch pedal too low? The rubber pedal stop bushing I bought, was too thick, i had to trim about half of it off to get the pedal to proper height.
Doug
Last edited by wmf62; 05-29-2017 at 09:13 PM.
#8
Race Director
If it was on the pedal rod arm it would increase mechanical advantage and lesson pedal pressure, but decrease fork travel.
I think. possibly
#9
Race Director
Thread Starter
You are correct. My mistake.
Doug
Doug
I may misunderstand what Bill did, but to increase fork travel with that extension, I assume it's on the arm that the fork rod connects to and that should increase the pedal pressure by lessoning the mechanical advantage.
If it was on the pedal rod arm it would increase mechanical advantage and lesson pedal pressure, but decrease fork travel.
I think. possibly
If it was on the pedal rod arm it would increase mechanical advantage and lesson pedal pressure, but decrease fork travel.
I think. possibly
#11
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I have a half a dozen forks from the 50s and 60s. Is there a part number on them anywhere to identify them?? I have three in the junk that I could repair (T/O bearing spring broken) but they are worthless to me.