'67 Restomod completed
#22
Drifting
Ya Ken, you gotta show us the details on the backup camera ... my 66 is still apart and I want to add that to mine. I think it's a much better solution for us old farts than putting a RH mirror on the door ... as long as the camera can be made hard to see from the back. I like Frankie's solution on his 63 which uses an blue tooth app on his phone rather than a fixed LCD.
Last edited by NightshiftHD; 06-03-2017 at 05:23 PM.
#23
Safety Car
Bruce, Ken, Just for future reference. When working with foam, you can use epoxy resin vs. polyester. Epoxy will not attack the foam. It is a little thicker, and harder to get it to penetrate the mat, but you can thin it with a little rubbing alcohol, which will not attack the foam either. I use West Systems epoxy. Most of the big box boat suppliers carry it. You can buy it in a pint (part a and b), or a 55 gallon drum. It mixes 50/50, and takes about 6 hours to set.
The following users liked this post:
Brucebodyman (06-04-2017)
#24
Le Mans Master
Looks awesome Ken! Love the little details in the build and I bet that 525 really scoots. I'm currently sorting out the details for a backup camera installation using a Pioneer 5800 stereo display, numerous camera options on the market some built into a licence plate frame.
Last edited by Scott Marzahl; 06-03-2017 at 08:56 PM.
#25
Race Director
A really gorgeous '67 restomod. Outstanding attention to detail and extremely tasteful. Well done!
Is this a local New Jersey owner? If so I hope to get to see it in person.
Is this a local New Jersey owner? If so I hope to get to see it in person.
#30
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
Bruce, Ken, Just for future reference. When working with foam, you can use epoxy resin vs. polyester. Epoxy will not attack the foam. It is a little thicker, and harder to get it to penetrate the mat, but you can thin it with a little rubbing alcohol, which will not attack the foam either. I use West Systems epoxy. Most of the big box boat suppliers carry it. You can buy it in a pint (part a and b), or a 55 gallon drum. It mixes 50/50, and takes about 6 hours to set.
I used the west system stuff but noticed it didn't wet the mat as well as the fiberglast stuff like you say, and it takes longer to harder. I got by with the polyester this time.
#32
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
OK, here are the details on the backup camera. I used a Boyo VTM500S monitor and the VTL275HD license plate camera. The actuator was from Actuonix, L16 Linear Actuator, 50mm, 35:1. The time delay relay was Siemens 7PV1540-1AW30.
The bottom end of the actuator mounts to a point just forward of the cross bar in the dash, so I made a flat bracket that bolts to the under side of the cross bar and extends forward about 1/2". Its adjustable so you can get the proper travel and still have the speaker grill drop down flat on the dash frame. I thought about integrating an electromagnet to hold the speaker grill down, but its heavy enough to stay seated and therefore don't need it.
Any questions, let me know.
The bottom end of the actuator mounts to a point just forward of the cross bar in the dash, so I made a flat bracket that bolts to the under side of the cross bar and extends forward about 1/2". Its adjustable so you can get the proper travel and still have the speaker grill drop down flat on the dash frame. I thought about integrating an electromagnet to hold the speaker grill down, but its heavy enough to stay seated and therefore don't need it.
Any questions, let me know.
The following 2 users liked this post by Ken Sungela:
firstgear (03-29-2018),
Kerrmudgeon (12-10-2017)
#33
Drifting
OK, here are the details on the backup camera. I used a Boyo VTM500S monitor and the VTL275HD license plate camera. The actuator was from Actuonix, L16 Linear Actuator, 50mm, 35:1. The time delay relay was Siemens 7PV1540-1AW30.
The bottom end of the actuator mounts to a point just forward of the cross bar in the dash, so I made a flat bracket that bolts to the under side of the cross bar and extends forward about 1/2". Its adjustable so you can get the proper travel and still have the speaker grill drop down flat on the dash frame. I thought about integrating an electromagnet to hold the speaker grill down, but its heavy enough to stay seated and therefore don't need it.
Any questions, let me know.
The bottom end of the actuator mounts to a point just forward of the cross bar in the dash, so I made a flat bracket that bolts to the under side of the cross bar and extends forward about 1/2". Its adjustable so you can get the proper travel and still have the speaker grill drop down flat on the dash frame. I thought about integrating an electromagnet to hold the speaker grill down, but its heavy enough to stay seated and therefore don't need it.
Any questions, let me know.
#34
Le Mans Master
Member Since: Sep 2003
Location: Norwalk ohio
Posts: 8,927
Received 640 Likes
on
358 Posts
2019 Corvette of the Year Winner
St. Jude Donor '15
Thanks guys. It was a long road but happy with the final result. The owner loves it. We did a test drive on Tuesday. I thought it may be too much car for him, but he proved me wrong.
Just the actuator holding the hood down. There are some rubber bumpers on the hood to make it level with the fender. I need to add one more bumper on either side to limit the side ways movement when closed.
The door panels were a LOT of work. I thought the foam was great until the resin started melting it. Fortunately the resin kicked in time to still hold the shape. I added more activator on the second panel for a faster kick. Still had to smooth it out with body filler. I'm going to try Sintra (PVC foam board) or equivalent next time.
Yes, air filter in the chrome pipes.
Mike C. - I'll post a video of the backup camera popping out of the dash. Pretty slick and simple design which only took about 20 hrs. ... you know how it goes.
Just the actuator holding the hood down. There are some rubber bumpers on the hood to make it level with the fender. I need to add one more bumper on either side to limit the side ways movement when closed.
The door panels were a LOT of work. I thought the foam was great until the resin started melting it. Fortunately the resin kicked in time to still hold the shape. I added more activator on the second panel for a faster kick. Still had to smooth it out with body filler. I'm going to try Sintra (PVC foam board) or equivalent next time.
Yes, air filter in the chrome pipes.
Mike C. - I'll post a video of the backup camera popping out of the dash. Pretty slick and simple design which only took about 20 hrs. ... you know how it goes.
#35
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
Hi Bill,
Post 32 shows the actuator from underneath the dash. You can see a bolt to the right of the actuator and there is another you can't see. I just used a 2" hinge and some heavy duty two sided tape to attach it to the monitor case, then bolted it to the dash frame. I wedged out the fiberglass frame a little just to move the assembly forward 1/8-3/16" or so. If you are recovering your dash with leather, I would cut out the strip of fiberglass that goes over the speaker and cover right over the whole opening. Then just cut a small rectangle for the actuator to go through.
Post 32 shows the actuator from underneath the dash. You can see a bolt to the right of the actuator and there is another you can't see. I just used a 2" hinge and some heavy duty two sided tape to attach it to the monitor case, then bolted it to the dash frame. I wedged out the fiberglass frame a little just to move the assembly forward 1/8-3/16" or so. If you are recovering your dash with leather, I would cut out the strip of fiberglass that goes over the speaker and cover right over the whole opening. Then just cut a small rectangle for the actuator to go through.
The following users liked this post:
firstgear (03-29-2018)
#38
Drifting
Hi Bill,
Post 32 shows the actuator from underneath the dash. You can see a bolt to the right of the actuator and there is another you can't see. I just used a 2" hinge and some heavy duty two sided tape to attach it to the monitor case, then bolted it to the dash frame. I wedged out the fiberglass frame a little just to move the assembly forward 1/8-3/16" or so. If you are recovering your dash with leather, I would cut out the strip of fiberglass that goes over the speaker and cover right over the whole opening. Then just cut a small rectangle for the actuator to go through.
Post 32 shows the actuator from underneath the dash. You can see a bolt to the right of the actuator and there is another you can't see. I just used a 2" hinge and some heavy duty two sided tape to attach it to the monitor case, then bolted it to the dash frame. I wedged out the fiberglass frame a little just to move the assembly forward 1/8-3/16" or so. If you are recovering your dash with leather, I would cut out the strip of fiberglass that goes over the speaker and cover right over the whole opening. Then just cut a small rectangle for the actuator to go through.
#39
Melting Slicks
Member Since: Apr 2002
Location: Ellicott City Maryland
Posts: 2,881
Received 1,962 Likes
on
664 Posts
OK, here are the details on the backup camera. I used a Boyo VTM500S monitor and the VTL275HD license plate camera. The actuator was from Actuonix, L16 Linear Actuator, 50mm, 35:1. The time delay relay was Siemens 7PV1540-1AW30.
The bottom end of the actuator mounts to a point just forward of the cross bar in the dash, so I made a flat bracket that bolts to the under side of the cross bar and extends forward about 1/2". Its adjustable so you can get the proper travel and still have the speaker grill drop down flat on the dash frame. I thought about integrating an electromagnet to hold the speaker grill down, but its heavy enough to stay seated and therefore don't need it.
Any questions, let me know.
https://youtu.be/pwm1rj3Atyc
The bottom end of the actuator mounts to a point just forward of the cross bar in the dash, so I made a flat bracket that bolts to the under side of the cross bar and extends forward about 1/2". Its adjustable so you can get the proper travel and still have the speaker grill drop down flat on the dash frame. I thought about integrating an electromagnet to hold the speaker grill down, but its heavy enough to stay seated and therefore don't need it.
Any questions, let me know.
https://youtu.be/pwm1rj3Atyc
Tom
#40
Melting Slicks
AWESOME build! Enjoyed all the pictures.