woodsdesign

Guys,
My boss is giving me a case of Penn Grade Racing oil, The Green Oil.
I don't race my car but I get on it occasionally. ( well maybe more the occasionally)
Is this something I want to put into my 65 with a built SBC 400?
Can anyone tell me what the difference is? Is it more zinc?

Nowhere Man

It's good stuff. Its got all the Zinc you would need for a flat tappet cam

MikeM

It is more of this and less of that and about the same in between.

Not suitable for street driving and using recommended change intervals.

GTOguy

And it has none of the additives needed to combat corrosion and oxidation and normal street-driven traffic conditions. Made to be run hard and dumped after the race, not to sit in a crankcase on a street driven car for months at a time. This has been covered in many, many threads over many years. Race oil is good for race cars at the track. Period.

Pop Chevy

Hey, if you don't want it I'll take it. I'd put it in my car and not worry about it.

427Hotrod

It's great stuff. I'd use it in a heartbeat.

JIM

tuxnharley

Exactly right. Racing oils are a poor choice for street driven cars, unless you want to return to 1000 mile change intervals and 50,000 mile engine rebuilds. If you like sludge build up you'll love racing oil in a street car for extended periods of use.
No detergent additives included.
Ah, the deja vu of the 40s and 50s !

babbah

Run it, it works!

R66

Read the label. The API rating and viscosity (e.g., 5W-30 etc.) will tell you if it is a suitable oil for your application.

Many recommend Rotella for our old cars. Why would anyone want to use diesel oil in a car engine? Answers - Higher zinc content for flat tappet cams, higher detergent for cleaning sludge, multi-viscosity for better cold start lubrication, a modern oil that exceeds the original specifications for the oil used in older cars which is no longer available in most cases.

Read, learn, and make your own decision.

MikeM

From this...............

https://www.daymotorsports.com/info/...-vs-street-oil


Short trips in your vehicle are the worst for producing engine-killing acids. Water is a byproduct of combustion, so water vapor always makes its way into the crankcase of your engine. If the engine does not run long enough to evaporate the water vapor out of the engine, water vapor will build up. When the engine cools down, the water vapor condensates which will allow water into your engine. The water mixes with the sulfur in the oil and the partially burned fuel to create a very corrosive mixture. To try and prevent this, oil engineers have developed detergent and dispersant additives to fight corrosion. So in a nut shell, oil with a high TBN value will have more detergent and dispersant to protect your engine from corrosion. The reason you would not want to run high TBN oil in your race car is the fact that the harder the engine runs, the less TBN it needs. This may seem backwards but it actually makes sense if you know that detergents and dispersants compete against the zinc anti-wear additives and EP (extreme pressure) additives our race engine needs.



From this...........

https://www.familyhandyman.com/autom...acing/view-all


Ever heard someone brag about running racing oil in a muscle car? Well, the joke’s on them, because racing oil isn’t meant for daily or even occasional driving. In fact, running racing oil in a non-track vehicle can increase the likelihood of sludge buildup in the engine. And, it can damage the $1,200 catalytic converter.

Racing oil contains three times more antiwear and friction reducing additives (for less wear and more horsepower) than ordinary oil. To make room for that spiked dose, the manufacturers yank the detergent, anticorrosive, antifoam and dispersant additives—precisely the additives you need most to keep your street engine running clean for 3,000 miles. The bottom line: Racing oil is for racing only, get it?

woodsdesign

My engine is completely rollered not flat tappet. Does that change anything?

Critter1

Read post #10.

Sky65

I used it until I went full roller and changed to synthetic.
I used 10-30. Look at the overview for oil clairification.
http://www.jegs.com/i/Glockner-Oil/4...iABEgJGk_D_BwE

Tom

woodsdesign

Tom, What synthetic are you using? What engine are you running?

Sky65

I have a gen 1 350 30 over so a 355. Cam is a Howard's hyd roller 225/225 duration, .525/.525. Lift. I just use Mobil 1 10/30. I confirmed with Howard's that full synthetic was ok before I changed over.

Tom

SWCDuke

...doesn't make any difference if your valve train is roller or sliding surface. If the bottle doesn't have the API "donut" with the SAE viscosity range and service category it's not suitable for normal road use because even though it may have generous anti-wear and anti-foaming additives, it likely does not have the detergents/dispersants that are required for months and thousands of miles or normal road use to hold contaminants in suspension that would otherwise precipitate out as sludge over time, so it's designed for very short term use, like one race.

Post the SAE viscosity and API service category if it has one listed.

Duke

Frankie the Fink

But, but, but..... it says "racing" -- has to be good right? My old body shop employee, Jim Teachman, who raced his blown Camaro, changed oil after every Saturday night drag run.

http://www.virginiaspeedracecars.com...n-70-5-camaro/

SWCDuke

OH YEAH, and don't forget the racing cam, gloves, and booties, and change them every race, too.

Duke

GTOguy

"She's got a 3/4 race camshaft and a shaved head. My sister's cat's grandmother once knocked off an 11.99 even though she missed second gear. We use racing oil in everything we drive, because you never know."