lib

I've had the Gold Battery Brain on my 63 for 10 years now and other than changing the battery in the fob, it's been flawless. No need to open and close the hood or fumble around with a light if it's dark. Push the button, hear the click, and walk away....
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johngandersonjr

I had the same issue and flipped it around. There are screws on the bottom.

wmf62

some (maybe all...) of the 'green ****' disconnects are junk, look brass colored but are made of zinc... and will break if abused... i'm not sure there are any solid brass ones...

I quess I've been lucky with mine, whatever they are made out of... BUT, they are 'cheap' enough and readily available to replace if necessary

Bill

alexandervdr

I have bad experience with these. When I attempted to solder the cable to it (I had a version that required that rather than clamping) using a simple camping gas torch, the whole thing just melted!
I installed the ones of the picture, they do perfectly well and have top side insulation which helps cause the expansion tank is very close

wmf62

interesting, I have never seen anything like that... (of course there are a LOT of things I've never seen.... )


Bill

ejboyd5

Basic Hella switch with a removable red handle mounted in the transmission tunnel to disconnect/connect the negative (-) cable between the battery and its grounding point. Switch is easy to reach from driver's seat and is barely noticeable when handle is removed. Mine has been in use for 20+ years and is still going strong as it is a quality product. Don't buy junk!

RatDog

Another vote for the Hella key.

Chuck Gongloff

Here's the WirthCo knife switch on my 63.

Viet Nam Vett

Is that Switch on the Neg Bat terminal Doc Chuck? If it is on the positive terminal that would scare me... All that metal sticking out an one touch with a Dip stick or wrench to ground would not be fun.

ejboyd5

Knife switch looks like something you would find in the laboratories of Edison and Tesla. I am concerned about all that exposed metal just waiting to make an unwanted contact.

Bill Pilon

I have the same knife switch on my 60, been used as a daily driver for most of the 37 years I have had it, without problems.

IIRC I only paid about $12-$14 bucks for it when I bought it back in the 80's.

Bill

scopeli

also there is a bolt that holds the terminal connector to the yellow bracket. you cannot see if it is becoming loose. it could cause the bracket to sag and make contact with the battery box when driving. another thing that happens with knife switches is the rivet on the knife loosens after years of use and the area where the blade engages the V slot loosens up making for poor contact and sometimes arcing.

R66

This is the disconnect I mounted under the hood of R66. I know it is a PIA to open the hood, but it locks and they have to rip the hood off to get to it. Also handy when working under the hood and storing for winter.

Mounted it more conveniently than on the battery. Much like RatDog's.

Don't know about reliablity yet, only had it on there about 3 months.

65hihp

oh my!

GCD1962

The old style Cole-Hearse switches are probably the best - very Industrial strength.

wilcar

I use a Cole hersee 2484 disconnect on my c4 and also on my Gto. About $25 on Amazon.

scopeli

on my C4,instead of a bolt head that needs a 1/4" wrench to loosen the negative terminal I have a **** that I loosen by hand to disconnect the battery.

Daren67

i have green one on positive side of my 67 for 10 years. No issues . Can remove at any time and connect orig batt cable. I Take green **** with me when leaving it for longer period of time on street. Never battery tend neither. Just connect when I drive and disconnect when I park.
Simple.

JohnZ

Here's the knife switch on the negative terminal on my '67 - been there for 15 years.

Viet Nam Vett

Showroom Fresh less the Ken_ife switch..