Sullyvette

WTH, I thought we could find any part out there for our cars. Two vendors told me that particular switch is no longer being made??? Part # 111 66 50 ??? Hate to buy from them (129$ to 150$). Thx

gbvette62

The 65 ignition switch is a one year only part, and was discontinued at least 5 or 6 years ago. There is no aftermarket or reproduction of the switch, currently available.

vettebuyer6369

What does LICS say?

Donald #31176

Might be possible to rebuild it with the guts from another switch if you have the original case.

Velox

LICS lists 65 switch with a price of $0.00 meaning not available

vettebuyer6369

leif.anderson93

Give David Sokolowski a call 310-329-5334. He helped another forum member with a '65 ignition switch.

Duck916

Are you sure you need one? Is this related to your starter issue?

mgr40021

Yes! David sent me the right switch and it still works perfect.

davekp78

What is unique about the '65 switch? Can another year switch be used for a non-NCRS car?

MikeM

You bring up a good point. Excellent opprotunity for them to deduct for a shortcoming on the ignition switch!

rongold

I just looked in my Corvette and my non Corvette Chevy parts books. The part number was 1116660. It was used on 65 Corvette and 65 Full sized Biscayne, BelAir and Impalas. Start looking for an ignition switch for a 65 full sized Chevy---It will more than likely be much cheaper if you find one.


RON

Donald #31176

Think R66 has your switch. Check down the forum posts.
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...witch-i-d.html

dplotkin

NAPA had one for my Goddamned 61 Plymouth, a 65 Chevy switch, come on...they made over 800,000 big '65 Chevrolets.



Dan

Sullyvette

Yes, I'm still having an issue with starting my '65. Tonight I went to my son's house to see his recently rebuilt '93 Turbo Toyota Supra. Started up great at my house drove 10 miles, let it sit for 30 minutes, attempted to start it to go home, nothing. Had to push/jump start it. It ran fine all the way home. My son accompanied me down Rt 20 and I have to tell you even my old Z06 woudln't touch these Turbo imports.

Back to my car, radio and lights worked, nothing when I turned key to start. I know I have to follow up on the already given advice here. I was just checking on the availability of a switch if I need one in the near future. Will do, Thx, Chuck

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Dan[/QUOTE]

Sullyvette

Hi Duck, I'm working on this issue. Thanks for the support. Chuck

Duck916

Okay, just want to encourage you to test a few more things--I'm sure you can find the problem. It could just be a bad connection at the firewall. I think most of us have experienced that in one way or another.

Sullyvette

Duck916

That's the ballast resister. Not involved in your starter problem. I was speaking of the two 8-pin plugs below the brake master cylinder. The inboard one includes the wire from the ignition switch to the solenoid (I believe it's the second pin from the top on the inboard side of that inboard plug).

But again, the easy way to check this is to jumper from the big terminal (where the battery cable attaches) to the S terminal (where the purple wire attaches). Just briefly connect the two--it should cause the starter to operate. Be careful, as the engine may start when you do this, so take all safety precautions--I would take off the coil-distributor cap wire so the engine won't actually start running, but you still need to take precautions as the engine should turn over when you do this.

Alternatively, you can have someone turn the key while you check for voltage at that purple wire attached to the S terminal.

If the engine doesn't turn over when you jumper it, or if there is no power to the purple wire when someone turns the ignition switch to start, then you can start tracing things back. The next place I would check is that 8-pin plug. It's a common spot for faulty connections (it caused me an intermittent charging system problem).

Good luck!

MikeM

Have you bought your $2 test light yet?