65GGvert

And also failed to report the voltage on the pink wire at the coil with engine running.

Old Pervette

Per JAVAC3

Volts at + side coil with key in on posit = 7.38

Volts at + side of coil with key off = 12.26 (same as battery)

Volts with key on (not running) at key side of ballast = 11.51
at coil side of ballast = 4.78

The coil tested at 1.8 primary and 12.3 secondary. I do have other coils I can swap in

DansYellow66

I can be wrong but I suspect that may solve your problem.

tbarb

There is your problem, with the key off you should not show any voltage at the coil. Check the wiring at the starter solenoid first then troubleshoot back from there.

65GGvert

I keep asking you for the voltage with the engine running because it would be helpful to know what voltage the alternator is sending to the coil, not the battery.

65GGvert

The + side of the coil and the coil side of the ballast is the same connection (just a short wire). Why would you have a 3 volt drop on that wire? It should be the same. As tbarb said, you should have zero there with the key off. I still think you have a miswiring somewhere. Would still like to see a picture of the "noise resistor" you wired in.

jim lockwood

You may have multiple problems but this situation is just wrong, wrong, wrong and it ought to be the first issue you address. With key off, you should always see zero Volts at the coil.

Jim

Old Pervette

Not a noise resistor, just the anti static capacitor on coil bracket. Your C1 may not have one but the C2's do. Item was added after my NCRS judging (TF).

I believe it connects to + side of coil and was asking for a confirmation of that.

65GGvert

Edited: The noise suppression capacitor attaches to the positive terminal on the coil. I had to look at my pictures from times past, my memory was not as accurate as the pictures were.

Frankie the Fink

You have voltage to your coil fulltime it appears, which burns up the points; prob when the car is sitting and the points are closed, then when you drive it the malfunctions start.

its the same as leaving the key in the ON position instead of ACC for a long time..

Not only that but this makes your car incredibly easy to steal...

You have some really bogus wiring...get help...

buns

In this picture from the AIM, it appears that it is connected to the positive terminal on the coil.

Since you seem to be having these problems since you added the capacitor, I would unhook it and see if your troubles disappear.

Old Pervette

I swapped out coils with another 202, so will fire it up tomorrow and take voltage readings at various points.

survivor66

Won't matter. Constant voltage at the coil in key off position is wrong no matter what you put on there. The Fink explains how it burns the points. I'm surprised it doesn't drain the battery too.

jim lockwood

OP read and internalize the above sentence. Several people have pointed this out. You really ought to find out why you measure Voltage at the coil with the key off before you just throw parts at the problem.

Old Pervette

OK 65GGvert will be happy.

I replaced the coil with a spare 202 and idled the car in the garage. Voltage readings as follow:

11.65 to ign side of ballast resister
7.70 on coil side of ballast resister
7.70 on + side of coil
3.8 on - (points) side of coil.

NO voltage readings on coil with key off

4.84 on + side of coil with key in on posit but not running
Voltmeter is all over the scale on - side of coil with key on but not running.

Old Pervette

OK 65GGvert will be happy.

I replaced the coil with a spare 202 and idled the car in the garage. Voltage readings as follow:

11.65 to ign side of ballast resister
7.70 on coil side of ballast resister
7.70 on + side of coil
3.8 on - (points) side of coil.

NO voltage readings on coil with key off

4.84 on + side of coil with key in on posit but not running
Voltmeter is all over the scale on - side of coil with key on but not running

Old Pervette

mea culpa on the previous high voltage at coil. I confused the cars, and was using + on the battery thinking it was ground......duh

ballast is finger burning hot, but car is running. Roadtest will reveal if coil was problem......or if a need a tow home.

65tripleblack

Ballast should be very hot when engine has been running for awhile. That's why they are made from ceramic material.

If your latest voltage readings are accurate, then your wiring and ballast check out AOK, and the problem is a failing coil. Other than oil leaks, the first sign of a failing coil is non-function when the engine gets hot. Your engine displays classic symptoms of a weak coil. If your replacement 202 is an original one, then make sure to have a brand new coil in your car as a spare. Buy a generic replacement labeled: "use with external ballast resistor" from your local auto parts store.

65GGvert

That sounds much better. (Twice)

DansYellow66

I was sort of suspecting this - easy to get the terminals on the battery confused. I spent half a day once trying to get my timing light to work before I realized I had the pos lead on the battery negative terminal.

Oh yes - the ballast resister does get hot. That's what electrical resistance develops - heat.