KC John

I just pulled my drive train to replace my engine and I would like to make a removable crossmember. The body is on the car and there is not enough room for a reciprocating saw to work. My floor pans on my early '63 hang down and prevent me from being able to get a blade in there.

Do you think it would be safe to use an abrasive disk on a 7" sander to cut through the crossmember from the bottom without damaging the floor? Or does anyone else have an idea of how I can approach this? I've read about as many posts as I could find doing searches and didn't find anyone else that mentioned this problem and how they over came it.

The only possible place to cut would be where the red line is and there is less room there than it appears in the photo. The cut would just about have to ride against the rim of the hole the exhaust goes through. Any ideas?

R66

Use a fire blanket available from a welding supply house above the cross member while cutting to protect the glass. A thin piece of sheet metal may also be used if you can work it in. The sheet metal will deflect the sparks and may allow you to use the Sawsall blade to cut the top.

Thin abrasive wheels are extremely dangerous and will explode if put in a bind. A slight twist will destroy them. If you use an abrasive wheel, I would not recommend the 1/16" thick wheel, but go the the 1/8" thick 'weld eraser' wheel. I don't know that they are available for a 7" grinder.

I would look at a diamond saw blade similar to those used to cut tile, made for cutting metal. Although much more expensive, the steel blade should bind and stall the motor before breaking. If you cut as much as you can with the sawsall first, then the go to the abrasive wheel or saw blade to reach the top, you will eliminate some of the hazard involved.

Always wear a face shield or goggles and leathers when you are playing with fire and hot particles.

tuxnharley

In looking at that picture, I wonder where you will find room enough to locate the new flanges on the cut ends of the crossmember?

warrenmj

Looks like your body spacers are either gone or crushed flat with age. Replacing them, which is recommended/necessary when installing a Tremec transmission, should give you some additional space to work with. Only cost a few bucks and with the engine and trans already out, shouldn't be a big deal to install.

KC John

I'm pretty sure I couldn't use the flanges that you are talking about, there is not enough room. I plan on welding tabs to the removable piece and bolting it in.

I'm not sure what is involved with replacing body spacers. I wouldn't want to start something that might create even more problems. I did think of unbolting the body mounts and lifting the body just enough to make the cuts, but I was concerned that a bolt might break or not come out for some reason and I would have a new problem on my hands.

Tom Austin

I put a removable crossmember kit in my 66 last fall. My car had new body spacers and I still had to lift the body slightly (@ an extra inch)) to have enough room to make the cuts! I don't see any other way to do it!!

whitoak

I'm new to this so forgive my question. Can a muncie 4 speed trans be pulled out while leaving the engine in place, and a 5 speed tremec installed? I assume that the answer is no, and that's the reason for the removable cross member install?

tuxnharley

It can be done with the engine in - mine was - but its a major pain in the @$$ to do it that way. Lots of back and forth manuvering and rotating, etc. Really needs two people to guide it in the process. Much easier with either the engine or the crossmember out.

OC-1

Just shims on a 63 body mount. The mount is higher than later years, no cushions or spacers to crush.

Don't auto cars, C2,3 have bolt in cross members?

Powershift

I know the archives have all the "how to do" info for this change. I believe AZDoug was one who did this awhile back. You might want to PM him or search his older threads.

Larry

EDIT: Here is a link to get you started. I am certain you can find many others. Do not try to reinvent the wheel. https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...ossmember.html

tf104

My 65 powerglide does not have a bolt in crossmember.

warrenmj

You should do a search on this topic which is covered extensively on the forum or create your own thread rather than hijack this thread.

pop23235

I think all the major service procedures began with "remove hood, remove engine and transmission".

KC John

I've read dozens of posts on this subject, but can't find anyone that has mentioned they had to lift the body. I see someone on this thread had to lift theirs, but that is the first I've heard about that.

KC John

I think this is the way I'm going to do it.

If I make the cut from inside the C/M where the pipe goes through (red lines are the cuts), I should be able to make that cut safely. Then the horizontal cut and the cut on the bottom look pretty easy. The cut from inside the tube on the top might be tight, but it also looks doable.
Then I plan on welding plates (blue areas) on both sides and one on the top of the removable piece.
I should be able to bolt it back on with 4 bolts through the C/M with the top plate just resting on the stationary part of the C/M. To me it seems like it should be safe and good as new. Does anyone see anything wrong that I might have missed?
Thanks for your help, sometimes I miss the obvious.

daz_au

My floor was very close and my mechanic cut it with an air powered hacksaw that had a very short stroke. I ended up replacing my body mounts after the fact due to driveline issues with the TKO, but doing it beforehand would have made his job easier.

I used the flange kit and they still had to be profiled down to fit and not hit the floor, we used a smaller head flange nut on one hole or we could not get a socket on it !

If you are on a lift, you may be able to support the floor sag with a separate prop while you cut, I believe the 64 has extra inboard mounts to stop excessive sag. For flange placement and how mine was done, you can see my thread starting at this post .