Does T.I. ignition have a ballast ignition?
#1
Instructor
Thread Starter
Does T.I. ignition have a ballast resistor?
I'm in Monterey for car week. I brought my car to drop it off at the show. Got within 100 feet of the show and the car died. The car is a 66 427/425 . The car will not restart but tries to start in the start position until I let off the key the car will die.
I guess my question is if I run a wire from positive battery to positive coil will I cook anything? Should the voltage at the positive coil be 12 volts or is it reduced by a resister?
Thanks as always
Peter
I guess my question is if I run a wire from positive battery to positive coil will I cook anything? Should the voltage at the positive coil be 12 volts or is it reduced by a resister?
Thanks as always
Peter
Last edited by bluovl; 08-17-2017 at 10:24 PM.
#2
Le Mans Master
Factory TI cars don't have a ballast resister on the firewall, but they do have resistance wires that are covered with a white fabric insulation.
In your shoes I would check all the connections in the TI wiring harness, especially the plug-in nearest the amplifier box.
In your shoes I would check all the connections in the TI wiring harness, especially the plug-in nearest the amplifier box.
#3
Instructor
Thread Starter
Factory TI cars don't have a ballast resister on the firewall, but they do have resistance wires that are covered with a white fabric insulation.
In your shoes I would check all the connections in the TI wiring harness, especially the plug-in nearest the amplifier box.
In your shoes I would check all the connections in the TI wiring harness, especially the plug-in nearest the amplifier box.
#4
#5
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The round connector to the amplifier really needs to be fully seated to the box. It pushes on further than you might initially expect. I believe there is a rib and a relief on the mating grommet pieces that indicate full seating.
The circuit is easy to troubleshoot (maybe someone else can point to the Chevy News bulletin with the process), but in the field it's probably easiest just to swap amplifiers. If you are running an OE amp (that is, one that hasn't been updated with K&B or LL internal module), you should always have a good spare in the glove box.
The circuit is easy to troubleshoot (maybe someone else can point to the Chevy News bulletin with the process), but in the field it's probably easiest just to swap amplifiers. If you are running an OE amp (that is, one that hasn't been updated with K&B or LL internal module), you should always have a good spare in the glove box.