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Every once in a while we get the opportunity to help preserve a piece of history that we have all grown to love. Small Block Chevy's are were most of us engine builders have started our careers and when a 1967 Small Journal 327 is brought in, it is like going back to the beginning for us. Thankfully, we have the machine shop and talent to bring beautiful engine back from smoking to performing flawlessly. Just wanted to share a few pictures with you guys. Any questions, please feel free to ask. Thanks.
Last edited by GolenEngineService; 09-14-2017 at 09:45 AM.
Very nice 327/300 hp engine. Thanks for posting the pictures.
Did you dyno the engine when done?
Did the engine require an overbore? Where did it start?
Did you add any other upgraded parts besides the timing chain?
What cam did you use in it?
Again thanks for posting the pictures, everyone loves to see pictures here, especially of such nice work.
I had my original L-79 rebuilt in 2010 by Carl Hickson....local Maine builder. It was my 6 th rebuild.....230,000 shitty oil burning miles up to that point.
Only changing the pistons and cam....the engine came out better than new....380 lbs torque...
my point....these engines rebuilt properly can go on forever....I put additional 72,000 miles on it since 2010..
Very nice 327/300 hp engine. Thanks for posting the pictures.
Did you dyno the engine when done?
Did the engine require an overbore? Where did it start?
Did you add any other upgraded parts besides the timing chain?
What cam did you use in it?
Again thanks for posting the pictures, everyone loves to see pictures here, especially of such nice work.
GUSTO
We will be putting this beauty on our Super Flow 902 engine dyno when we are completed with the build. We strongly recommend it, this allows us to make sure cam shaft break in is done properly and also to make sure the engine is ready to drop in your car with no worries of leaks. We went .030" over original bore, The cylinders are now straight and true. The pistons are of a better quality material and we went through the heads, performance three angle valve job and new components, valves, springs, retainers, modern day viton seals, and new locks. We upgraded the rocker system to a comp cams roller tip and hardened 5/16" pushrods. We also used a Comp Cams 12-238-2 cam.
Last edited by GolenEngineService; 09-14-2017 at 09:45 AM.
I had my original L-79 rebuilt in 2010 by Carl Hickson....local Maine builder. It was my 6 th rebuild.....230,000 shitty oil burning miles up to that point.
Only changing the pistons and cam....the engine came out better than new....380 lbs torque...
my point....these engines rebuilt properly can go on forever....I put additional 72,000 miles on it since 2010..
So....replace or rebuild....I say rebuild....
Jack
PS great rebuild.....Golden...
Sounds like a great idea to me. A lot of guys in our area like to take the original 327 out and put in a 383, which we recently built a 480hp 383 for a 64 Vette. It is all on what you want to do and what your budget is. Thanks for the comment Jack.
Last edited by GolenEngineService; 09-14-2017 at 09:45 AM.
We will be putting this beauty on our Super Flow 902 engine dyno when we are completed with the build. We strongly recommend it, this allows us to make sure cam shaft break in is done properly and also to make sure the engine is ready to drop in your car with no worries of leaks. We went .030" over original bore, The cylinders are now straight and true. The pistons are of a better quality material and we went through the heads, performance three angle valve job and new components, valves, springs, retainers, modern day viton seals, and new locks. We upgraded the rocker system to a comp cams roller tip and hardened 5/16" pushrods. We also used a Comp Cams 12-238-2 cam.
I for one will be excited to hear how it does on the dyno.
The cam looks similar to the 327/350 cam. What valves are in the heads, 1.94's and 1.5's?
It's great to hear from another good rebuilder in New Hampshire. I know a lot of folks will be happy to know of another reliable rebuilder in the area.
I for one will be excited to hear how it does on the dyno.
The cam looks similar to the 327/350 cam. What valves are in the heads, 1.94's and 1.5's?
It's great to hear from another good rebuilder in New Hampshire. I know a lot of folks will be happy to know of another reliable rebuilder in the area.
Thanks again for becoming a supporting vendor.
GUSTO
Yes, stock sized valves. Thank you for the kind words.
I would add just a tip for members following this post, based on the fact we've been doing the 100% stock-appearing units for over 40 years now.
With today's technology we strongly recommend to ALL our own customers to go full roller (retro-hyd lifters with "real" roller rockers) and you'll never regret it. Chances are you'll never need to replace a "worn" cam/lifter any more.
They can be done with ALL the OEM components in play AND see a 30 HP (nominal) gain just from the roller setup. We also recently devised our own method of using the newer late stepped-nose cams in these early castings. No more cam buttons, simple thrust-plate and 2 screws, bolt the cam in place!
Thanks, Gary in N.Y.
P.S. If you do decide on the flat-tappet platform I would also recommend using ONLY the original "moly" lube for any cam break-in, forget anything the vendors are supplying with their cams.
I would add just a tip for members following this post, based on the fact we've been doing the 100% stock-appearing units for over 40 years now.
With today's technology we strongly recommend to ALL our own customers to go full roller (retro-hyd lifters with "real" roller rockers) and you'll never regret it. Chances are you'll never need to replace a "worn" cam/lifter any more.
They can be done with ALL the OEM components in play AND see a 30 HP (nominal) gain just from the roller setup. We also recently devised our own method of using the newer late stepped-nose cams in these early castings. No more cam buttons, simple thrust-plate and 2 screws, bolt the cam in place!
Thanks, Gary in N.Y.
P.S. If you do decide on the flat-tappet platform I would also recommend using ONLY the original "moly" lube for any cam break-in, forget anything the vendors are supplying with their cams.
A lot of great tips here, and we couldn't agree more with the reliability aspect of a roller Cam. Being in the business for 40 years you definitely know that a lot of decisions made on Engine builds are determined by customer preference and more importantly budget.
As important as the Moly lube that we use on every flat tappet build, a good high performance oil with Zinc is essential to longevity of any classic muscle car camshaft. Driven Hot Rod oil by Joe Gibbs and Lucas Hot Rod and Classic car oil are great choices just to name a couple.
If you really want to do something different and turn you car in to a fire breathing tire slayer, we build many options for you.
Last edited by GolenEngineService; 09-15-2017 at 09:27 AM.
Glyptol enamel is a great sealer for lifter valley casting pores and helps oil drainage/return to pan also. But the newer thermal cleaning process using shot peening the block (after cooking) pretty much accomplishes the same thing w/o the extra effort. And many clean up that lifter valley with abrasive rolls before cleaning also. I guess what I'm saying is there is almost no end to block preparation if you want to do it all!
Epoxy in screens and magnets, poor in water jacket filler, plug and redrill coolant passages in the deck and weld in reinforcement metal where it can help then grind out metal where it doesn't to reduce weight. Rework the bottom of the bores as well as journal plates/risers (or whatever you call them).
What do the mountain motor builders do for more cubic inches? Are you ready to glue and screw on thicker deck plates??
09-14-2017, 08:37 AM
Small Journal Rebuild
